OldSlowReliable
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Posts posted by OldSlowReliable
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Thanks! Looks like where the fluid was dripping from, it can only be from the hard line rusting, so I think I'll go into it with that as my approach.
I'll keep y'all updated on the progress.
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That'd be awesome, Trogdor, if you're able to!
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I was hoping you could tell me?
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Diagnosing a rupture in my rear brake system from 180 miles away, the fluid is leaking from the area directly above the rubber loops that captive the e-brake lines on a 4 door wd21.
Wondering if someone can take a look under, and possibly photograph to give me an idea of where the junctions/transitions from hard line to flex hose lie under there.
Thanks,
Travis
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Joa,
While I do not live in your area, so I cannot comment on what kind of shops would do a body lift for you, I'd assume most offroad shops would if you gave them the instructions/kit.
Here are your options for body lifts, 2" or 3"-
https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/body-lifts-pathfinder-c-117_354.html
It is not entirely complicated, in fact it was the first thing I ever did mechanically on any vehicle. There are good writeups on this site, and more than enough people have done them
if you run into trouble so perhaps you will decide to do it. If you're still looking for a shop to do it, I suggest contacting a local offroad forum or club to see who they trust to do work
on their rigs, and give them a call to see if they are interested in doing it.
While it isn't like cutting springs or changing coilovers, I wouldn't say that it is any more difficult or invasive. Unbolt a few select items for clearance, unbolt body, lift, rebolt, and
change a few things (gas fill tube, steering column etc).
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For anyone else who likes replacing bolts & such as long as you have them off, here are the stats on the ones I replaced this time around-
Balljoint 4 upper mounting bolts- m8x1.25 25mm
Auto Hub Bolts- m8x1.25 65mm (apx 65)
Anyone who can't find the auto hub bolts, here is a site that sells them, also in SS http://www.mcmaster....-screws/=if4h7r
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I have that compressor, I use it to fill up two 7 gallon tanks before entering the dunes, then I have enough air to go from single digit psi in my 33's, to ~40. Actually the compressor will do 3 without hiccuping, but I can enslave my passengers to man a tank each and get done quicker. I also fill up another 7 gallon at home for use in cleaning carbs, mostly using an air nozzle, or blowing crap of my bench. I love mine, use it year round for cars, motorcycles, bikes, tanks, and such, no complaints. I paid around $50-70 for mine, and got it a couple years ago, (probably 2-3)
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Just some quick info-
The twelve point bolts on the shaft required a 12mm socket
I only found it necessary to undo the autolocking snapring, and the upper balljoint to remove, waiting for parts to come in so not certain if they will go in the same.
If you can get the shaft to lock to the hub, you can put the lug nuts back on and put a small floorjack/2x4 between one and the floor at 3/9 o'clock to halt the shaft for easy bolt removal, also works for cranking on the hub bolts
I'll update with any other tips/tricks when I get the shipment in to finish my front end. I've ordered two duralast remans with a lifetime warranty for 57 a pop, $100 core charge. Autozone said they should take half a day to arrive, so hopefully tomorrow.
First side removal took about an hour, but I'm familiar with the hub n such, and waited for some pb blaster to settle in, second side removal was about 35 minutes, not including time to put it on stands and take the wheel off, as I put the entire front end up first thing.
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Depends on when the money is "due" really, I'd probably be interested in one.
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Sorry for the dumb question, but how do drivelines still work without the slip yoke? Don't you need that motion to allow the suspension to travel? Couldn't find an easy answer on the web!
if I'm not mistaken, there is a slip joint on the shaft.
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Given that r50s have struts, isn't backspacing a little more important?
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think of any motorcycle on the road. no strut covers on the forks for a reason. (save for a few that do it for looks)
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Founder of NPORA.
simplest way I could explain...
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there's a topic on cv shaft replacement that has pictures of hub dis-assembly and such. I think its in the how-to's, but may be wrong.....
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150 for 4 is no deal atall. even if they were NIB
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Depends on where you mount the cb....otherwise pull up carpet, lay down coax, lay down carpet.
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I've had mine mounted in two places, which may or may not work for you....they both WORKED for me, but only one really served my needs.
1st- Under the radio. My pathy has the abs module mounted under the radio in a box sorta thing molded to the dash, but my small cobra cb fit perfectly in that cavity, and with some finesse did not interfere with the auto shifter/transfer case.
Last- On the back of my center console. I have no armrest (haven't for years) so attaching it facing straight up there has really worked wonderful. I kept my mic mounted to the center console right next to the ebrake on the upper most facet...works great, out of the way for 90% of the time I'm not using it.
18ft of cable has done me well, although 12 feet or so would probably work just as well. I have a fair amount coiled (correctly) under my rear seats, and some to spare for the back. This will depend greatly on where you decide to mount it.
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A roof mount is the best because it is the most effective. Remember what you see as an antenna is not an actual antenna! Your whole truck is an antenna along with that wire that sticks out. CB waves are very TALL and LONG because the frequency they operate at is very LOW. So the taller your wire sticks up, the better reception you will have. If there is anything that pisses me off more is those illegal export only amplifiers that crowd the entire CB channel. If you are worried about the antenna hitting things, there are things you can do to make it more flexible.
That's all great and dandy but for two things-
Philosophy of use- Most 4 wheelers don't care about range. I know my cb only needs to communicate within my group (anywhere from 2 trucks to 50 trucks) who are all reasonably within line of sight, or shouting distance.....so a low/mid mount fiberglass cb is better than a roof mount whip that will be a PITA....
This isn't a 'criticize people's cb setups' thread...its a wanted ad for a tail light..
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because i am NOT drilling holes all over my truck to look cool. i talk to people within a 3 mile radius of me, it's where i WANT it.
More power to ya! I love my tire carrier for that same reason, no holes in the body panels, and it keeps it away from most danger!
Food for thought- the jeepers typically use a little bracket that screws into the body where the tail light is, and protrudes with the cb mount....
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I know bikes primarily, but are you sure your timing is right? 0 compression definitely sounds valve related, and its possible you bent some valves.....
just my observations though..
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I agree the older ones are hot as heck...something about beetles is just FUN..
anyways, the brakes/cvs job I've been doing on my sister's car has come to cost me $330 in parts, which would have gone to fixing up this beetle.....looks like a no go for me
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I like it, because (similar to my motorcycles) I can take the engine out and work on it, with room to spare in my 1.5 car garage...not so much with a sbc 350 or even the pathy's 3.0... mostly due to the removal technique vs my lack of length in the garage...
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My big thing, is that I don't think he's ever HAD it running, and without a drivable vehicle, there's no easy way to just test out the other parts, mainly suspension/drivetrain....
gotta get this kia out of my garage before that though!
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Yeah, he's been sitting on it for quite some time....and had it out at his garage sale last week, still no buyers...perhaps getting a bit desperate?
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So....this past week I've been working on my sister's kia optima (2004), needs new cv boots, and front brakes. Going to be about 200 out the door. anyways.... after I get this POS out of my garage, I want to make an offer on a sweet little 72 beetle that is literally at the end of my street. Its bright orange, has all the glass/interior and new wheels/tires, (not installed, owner wanted to clean it up properly but changed his mind for garage space) although it doesn't RUN. (the kicker!).
My mom actually pointed this opportunity out to me, and kinda wants it for her own dreams, however she wanted to offer $500 for a running car, I suppose she doesn't understand the whole "collectors item" which the seller did not cease mention when I went and looked at it, saying "I've had a few vw guys stop by and say I could get way more out of it", but previously saying "the asking price of 1200 is flexible". He claims it wants to start/run, but the points got rained on, and now need replacing, and he just doesn't want to deal with it. Sounds too good to be true.
anyways, talk me out of it!
and if you won't....
is offering 500, then maxing at 600 so lowball to only offend? I'd have another $200 to offer, but like I said, I had to replace my sister's brakes/cv's unexpectedly.
It really is a beauty, has a black rear valance deal, orange rust-free body, but perhaps I have some new-project goggles on, and not objective buyers lenses!
Need a picture/inspection of your WD21's rear brake line
in Off-Topic
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New brake line made by a local parts shop is in, but the fuel lines cracked open in the process. Gonna price this out, but I'm getting pressure from shewhomustbeobeyed to scrap the job and cut my losses. Anyone got fuel lines laying around?