SC88Pathy
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Posts posted by SC88Pathy
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Practice as everyone else said.
How I learned best was developing the formula's myself. Not just being handed a formula and being told "This is the formula to find this, now memorize it." I found that if you do the basic math and find out how the formula's work it sticks with you way more than just memorizing it.
Of course that's not very helpful if the test is only a day away, just something to keep in mind for your next math class.
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thats dirty! i wish i could do that! just wait 10 years and they will have rock crawlers on batters.... ok maybe 20 years... if that...
Nah somebody's probably working on one right now
Jeep was planning on making a hybrid wrangler, but who knows if that will see the light of day
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A quick question are you planning on making this an off road vehicle?
If so I suggest sliders instead of nerf bars and keeping the tow hitch. The nerf bars will only bend and cause more damage if you hit something off road, and unless you plan on installing a custom rear bumper the tow hitch is your only safe rear attachment point for off road recovery.
Welcome to NPORA! Hope we can help you out with anything you need!
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OK here's how mine works (this is assuming you have the factory alarm)
First you have to turn the switch to the ON position while the truck is running. The truck then has to continue to be running for a good five minutes at least (in my experience that is).
Then when you turn the engine off the alarm will activate, and the light should start blinking. You then have a minute or two to get out of the truck and lock it. If you sit around for a while in the truck the alarm will still activate, and when you open the door to get out the alarm will start going off.
Also it could be that the previous owner installed an aftermarket alarm and disabled the stock alarm when they did so.
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Whats wrong with it just going into the floor pan?
Well if you roll or suffer an extremely hard accident and your seat is just mounted to the floor pan, it's possible that the bolts could rip right out of the floor pan and you and your seat will now be floating around the cabin.
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Poh-poo-rie or however you spell that
No seriously. It's great when you drive past a dead skunk or cattle yard, just open up the ash tray and the bad smell is quickly overturned by another smell that doesn't make you want to barf.
Also some screws from when I replaced the stereo, put everything back together and had a couple left over.
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There are a couple of those around here.
One is driven by some rich stupid ass college student whose parents have obviously paid for everything.
The other one is chromed out everywhere (chrome "brush gaurds" even on the remote blinkers!)
Each time I see one of them I get the urge to save the poor G's from their horrible horrible owners.
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5" Factory lift????
Yeah the guy clearly knows absolutely nothing about it, probably bought it used that way and thought it was stock. Probably needs all new steering since he's running 32's and I bet you nothing has been done to beef up the steering.
I'd be more than happy to go look at it for anyone if you're thinking about buying it and having it shipped out of state.
I'd buy it myself, but even if I did have $3k I have other priorities that need spending on.
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http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1172271877.html
One's for sale locally for those of you who'd kill to buy one...
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Going to need to know a little bit more information.
When you say it won't start what are the symptoms? Does it try to turn over when you have the choke on after you pull it a couple of times? If not then I would suggest changing the spark plug.
It could also be the air to fuel mixture. The manufacturer should have the instructions on how to adjust the carb (usually screws somewhere on the outside).
Any rust visible anywhere? Could be the cylinder is rusted stuck after having sat for so long.
Fuel lines ok? Check to see if there's anything the manufacturer installed for shipping that would prevent it from starting?
Also out of curiosity what brand is the chainsaw?
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Passport and Rodeo are the same car. All were made by Isuzu, the Honda's are just re-badges. This was done as an agreement between Isuzu and Honda. Honda wanted N.A. market share for the SUV sector, and so they contracted Isuzu to make SUV's for them. In return Honda produced cars (Japan only) and minivans (Isuzu Oasis) for Isuzu. Similar to the Pathfinder and Hardbody, the Rodeo and Isuzu Truck used the same frame and same parts from the steering wheel forward.
Last time I went to Hollister we had two separate groups of people ask us if our trucks were Isuzus/Hondas.
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But they weren't back then....
You need to know the history of your pathfinder
"The firm [Nissan] established assembly operations in the United States in the early 1980s, with a plant in Smyrna, Tennessee. This facility at first built only trucks and SUVs, such as the 720, Hardbody, and Pathfinder, but has since been expanded to produce several car lines. "
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http://contact.usa4sale.net/contactseller....ber=09884230162
If I only had 3k right now...
(Actually 4k, need to get to Florida and back...)
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Dynamite
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Happy birthday Dan!
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So I guess the answer is I should try swapping it and see what happens?
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Well, I guess my question is - what on a wheel do you measure to figure out what size tire to use - I'd assume it's a radial measure?
You said you have the stock lego tires right? If that is the case you want 31's, the legos were designed to fit 31x10.5 tires (I'v seen a set with 235's on it, it looked really stupid and the tires obviously weren't seated properly)
The stock steelies were designed for 235/75R15 tires, but can fit 31x10.5s as well.
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:cough: :cough: MT swap....
I know, and that might end up being the route that I go, but I do like having an auto for off roading. There are a lot of situations where it is advantageous.
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...seems like Ford got a contract !!
That was four years ago.
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tirerack.com currently has Kumho Road Venture APT's in 235/75R15 for $77 each, and they're ranked 9th in category (out of 71 tires).
But I'm guessing that you're probably going to run 31x10.5's since you have a 3" body lift.
In which case I'd go for Yokohama Geolander HT/S's. They're $109 each, but that's the best price you're going to find in 31's unless you go for a retread tire. I'v never had an issue with Yokohama tires, I had them on my previous car (Toyota Camry) and I currently have their AT/S on the Pathfinder and I plan on putting Yoko's on my Focus once it's time to replace the tires on it currently.
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My dad has a 99 F150 2WD with the 4.something V8 (I think). His only problems have been the gas mileage and a lack of traction when the bed is empty (of course we have helper springs on the back so that doesn't help with the traction issue)
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So the topic pretty much says it all, does anyone know if you can swap the 3 speed + Overdrive automatic from a 90-95 Pathfinder into an 88-89 Pathfinder?
I know that the Transmission ECU will have to be swapped (and the OD shifter as well), but I guess the main question is will the new Transmission ECU play nicely with the Engine ECU from the 88?
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The TD is offered to this day so parts aren't hard to find, but as I understand, you don't need many. Chrysler is probably the best off of any of the Big 3, whatever that means...
The Cummins is only offered in the 3/4+ ton chassis as it can warp the (old) 1/2 ton chassis when towing at capacity. As for wheeling, where do you want to go with a 3/4 ton 350ci inline 6 TD??
I'll only say that if I needed a full sized truck, that is what I would shop for.
(don't like Fords)
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Well Chrysler is only best off if the deal with FIAT goes through (which it seems like it will)
Otherwise Ford is currently doing the best
Of course that's like getting first place at the Special Olympics...
Wheeling in July near Chico, CA
in Southwest States
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Yah there are a lot of trails up their in Lassen National Forest, as well as a longer day trip style trail (can't remember the name of it right now)