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Everything posted by Pathfinder_Rookie

  1. Nope, I think im good for now. I went out and bought a new starter and swapped that module, and all is good. And its good to hear you take you time to do things right. That was one of my issues about taking it to a professional installer, i wanted it in a certain spot that required a special bracket, and i wanted it neat and tucked away where you wont get caught on the wires with your shoes or if you have bulky winter boots on. Anyways thanks for your help and ill post again if anything changes. P. Rookie
  2. Ya that seems to be the only problem that ive been able to find. I cant use a relay with the wire from the 2 pin harness, the voltage is to low to trigger a connection and doesn’t drop low enough to disengage it. But i did use a DMM to help me know when the light were so post to flash (approx 4v difference) but it is to hard to tell the pulse speed of the flashes. I managed to get the majority of my function set, have some functions not working but i need the lights to flash to program them (catch 22). But Im going into town tomorrow, maybe, ill fight to get it exchanged, or ill buy one and return the defective unit. I just dont understand how the company is able to distribute units that are defective. Im Sure they have a Q.C. department. I was talking to the leading automotive electronics installer in town, and hes saying the unit are junk and have a 45% failure rate strait out of the box and another 15% failure in installation ability. But he said if it works off the bat your laughing and probably never have an issue with it. But i can keep you posted if you like. Tks a bunch... Cheers.
  3. My truck is a 1997 Klondike model. It has that starter disable antitheft device. Im not sure if the yellow wire on the 5 pin harness is so post to be hot or not, But in the installation book it said that its a POSTTIVE parking light output wire, their is also a parking light NEGATIVE wire that is on a 2 pin harness (look at that PDF doc.), but i didn’t install this because the book said only one of these wires need to be installed. Ive also been thinking that this might be a relay application, Im going to go and see if i have a 5 pin relay kickin around the shop, and look into it. Oh and ive floated around that website looking for help too, didnt spen to much time, maybe tonight, when it starts raining. Tks.
  4. http://www.engines911.com/asdocs/CT-3400TW...v250_040908.pdf Okay above is the installation guide for my remote starter. (If you scroll down it gives a list of the wire on each harness and what they need to be connected to) The way i have it connected is as follows: 6 PIN Harness Wire A -- RED +12 V Battery ---- i have this connected to the White and Pink Wire at the ignition harness (This wire has a 12v with the key in the ACC, ON, and Crank Position) Wire B -- PURPLE Starter Output ---- this is connected to the Black and Yellow wire at the wiring harness. (It gives a 12v reading with the key in the crank position) Wire C -- Red +12v Battery ---- This wire is connected with Wire A above. Wire D -- Yellow Ignition Output ---- this is connected to the Black and White wire at the ignition harness. (Wire reads 12v at the ON, and CRANK position) Wire E & F ---- Not connected 5 PIN Harness Wire 1 -- Black Chassis Ground ---- Connected to Bolt under dash (Continuity Checked) Wire 2 -- Purple Tachometer ---- Connected to the Light Blue wire that runs from the Distributor to the ECM, Connected to a factory split joint. (Continuity Checked with ECM and Distributor disconnected) Wire 3 -- Grey (-) Hood Pin ---- I connected this to the factory hood switch Yellow and Black at the Alarm Module or (Smart Entrance Module) Wire 4 -- Orange Brake Switch ---- Connected to the Light Green and Black wire at the M2 Connector (Located on DS Right Bottom corner 12V Output w Pedal Pressed) Wire 5 -- Yellow Parking Lights ---- Pink and Blue at the ignition harness. This wire gives 12v in parking light and running light selections at the combination switch. (The Yellow wire produces a 12v output when the battery is connected, causing my parking lights to stay on) 12 PIN Harness Wire 1 -- Blue ---- Not Used Wire 2 -- Brown (-) Lock ---- Light Green and Red located at the Alarm Module or (Smart Entrance Module) Wire 3 -- Green (-) Unlock ---- Not Installed Wire 4 -- White and Brown (-) Arm ---- Yellow at Alarm Module or (Smart Entrance Module) Wire 5 -- White and Green (-) Disarms ---- Light Green at Alarm Module or (Smart Entrance Module) Wire 6 -- Blue and White (-) Aux 1 ---- Brown at Alarm Module or (Smart Entrance Module) Using this Aux to access priority door access Wire 7 to 12 ---- Not Installed
  5. Ya. A question would help eh? When i reconnected the battery after soft wiring my connections the parking lights come on and stay on. and im unable to coordinate my remote to the starter module. The first instruction is to coordinate the remote which require to flash the hood pin (Pressing it for 4sec), and when released the parking lights should flash 5 times, but they never turn off, so some things wrong. ive been over the wires a dozen times, smoked 2 packs of cigarettes, and its remains the same.
  6. Okay Last Christmas i received a prostart 3400 remote starter. I want to get it installed before the one year is up. I have all the proper documentation and diagrams and i've located and connected all the wire that are required. Before i get really involved in explaining what I’ve done, is there anyone that can help me?
  7. You’ll get spark even if your 20 teeth off (dont tryit though), The ignition system is run off the crankshaft, witch turns you distributor. The timing belt allows your cams to turn in relation to the crankshaft, positioning the valves in the proper position. The Spark actually occurs twice in one cycle, or : (2 revolutions of the crank, or 4 strokes of the piston) one on the compression stroke and one on the exhaust. What im getting at is your engine should be getting spark no matter were the cams are. Just as a reference for the timing belt install, there needs to be 40 teeth between the markings on the cam gears and 43 between the right cam gear and the mark on the crankshaft gear. So it leads me to believe that you have an electrical issue. This might see like a stupid question but does the spark light work? Can you take some more pics from a little further away, want to get a look at what connectors you have taken off and generally see what’s where.
  8. Do you have all of the sensors and connections that are circled hooked up? The two that are closest to the bottom of the image, if their not connected, you won’t get any spark at all. Also check the back of the connectors and make sure that the wire haven’t torn or come loose while you were dissembling the front of your truck. Take some pics maybe that will help others in here.
  9. K This blows... I obviously spoke to soon, My problems back. I took a timing light to see if the timing is okay but i cant get an accurate reading. it fluctuates between 10-20+ degrees BTDC but mostly between 15 and 20+. Is this normal not to get a consistent reading. It idles at 700 RPM. Why is each flash at a different reading? I Aslo OBD II tested it and I have a DCT P0105 error (Absolute Pressure Sensor) could this be a factor and if so what is its relation with my timing?
  10. Okay i was redoing my timing yesterday and when i took off the rubberhose that connects the fresh air inlet tube that goes into the valve covers, i found a little brass pipe cleaner. Does this need to be there or did it breakoff when someone was trying to clean it? By pathfinderrookie, shot with Canon PowerShot A85 at 2007-09-10 By pathfinderrookie, shot with Canon PowerShot A85 at 2007-09-10
  11. Okay, Im Going to need a "I told you so..." I had a tooth of on my left cam gear. all seems to be good right now, but ill see once it gets hot out. Thaks Simon
  12. The circled connecters should all be connected this should allow your engine to run, but you'll have no throttle, it will just stall when you rev it up.
  13. I thought about the spring becoming unseated but that can be resolved by adding a clamp to the mounting plates for the spring. As for leveling out the ride, the extender should do the same as a spacer, instead of putting an inch on top of the strut assembley you put it inside, which should give you the same outcome. I dont know if that makes sense.
  14. The top part (The strut extender) screws onto the top of you existing strut, allowing the coil to stretch that extra little bit, intern leveling out the ride and stoping that strut from topping out. (Well I think, it works in my head.) I had a ACAD drawing But cant open the file cause i dont have ACAD installed.
  15. I tried to upload a pic with the thread yesterday but something on my computer wont let me upload any files even with email. I just put a new hard drive in so all my previous settings are gone and i dont know how to fix it.
  16. Ya im heading out to my house this sunday, ill look into it there. thks. ill let you know how it turns out.
  17. Hey guys. I was just reading this thread and noticed that a lot of lifter R50 owners are installing these spacers to level out the front end. Im assuming this is to compensate for the shot strut. Mine maxes out on the down stroke when going over speed bumps\humps. I have recently made strut extenders that screw onto the top of the existing strut that will hopefully give it a 2" lift in the front to level it out, and stop that strut front maxing out going down trails. So my question is: has this idea not been though of, or does it have a problem like breaking or making the coil free float?
  18. There’s three actually, two on the left when facing the engine, that are threaded into the block, and one on the right side that has an elongated hold that looks like it can be adjusted. But the way i see it you have to unscrew the two bolts on the left to allow the distributor to turn. Just had a thought.. the whining that i was assuming was my power steering, could be a tight timing belt, so Simon you think that if that timing belt was to tight it would throw off the timing at little but causing it to tick?
  19. I don’t have any lack of power it runs the same as it always did. It just ticks, or better described it sounds like a jar of marbles being rolled. Is there any way to manually adjust the timing on the 3.3's? ive looked the distributor and i dont see any way of adjustment, so the computer should thake care of the fine tuning. All my mechanically inclied buddies say it has to be adjustable, but they're all old school chey, ford, and dodge boys. The other thing that i was thinking was, could the new timing belt i installed stretch enough to cause the timing to advance enough to give me this problem, i dont really want to go through removing the front end to check the tension
  20. I checked the teeth between cam gear marks three times before i put it all back together. and my tension too. So it cant be off, plus i was talking with a Nissan tech guy, who used to be my neighbor, and he said that even with one tooth off, it will run like @!*%. As for that seafoam stuff, ive tried that with a new oil change, it worked but it only lasted about 3 days before it came back. Thanks for that link, love that zip tie idea. Zip ties... man i love those things.
  21. Hey guys, got a situation I am hoping to get so information on. I have a ticking niose coming from my engine. I am certain it’s a lifter. This all started with my waterpump replacement. While I hade the front end torn apart i went and did my timing belt and cam seals. It was running fine before this, so I think this is something that ive done. Is it possible to wreck a lifter when taking off the bolt for the cam gear? Ive been looking for valve train kits on the internet but im coming up empty. I have also read that on the 3.5L it is possible to adjust the lifters, does anyone know if this is true and if its adaptable for the 3.3? Where am I able to find a vale kit that would have the lifters included in it? Could the ticking be something else? My truck starts and runs fine, but when it reaches normal temperature and my truck is under load it will begin to tick. Ive run engine flush through my oil and gave it two consecutive oil\filter changes with in 500km of each other. It seems to run better after an oil change, but my ticking comes back after a day or so. Am I looking at a new engine In the soon future or is it worth to do the lifter job? My truck has 290.000km according to the gauge cluster, but I don’t know if its right. P Rookie
  22. That was the impression that i was under... get the proper gear ratio down. What i dont get is that Troy, my tranny guy, reset it and diagnosed my tranny all within a couple hours. so that leads me to believe that there must be a way of adjustment. The research that ive done all say that their gear or 'cog' driven, and all you need to do is find the proper ratio and your good to go. Yes thats right i did research before I posted, lol, i know how much that aggravates people in these forums. I should call my local dealer... as much as i despise their mechanics and service department. If anyone comes across any information that might be of any use let me know. Cause somebody has to know. Right? Thanks again, guys. P. Rookie

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