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Looks like I've talked myself into doing a radius arms setup at the 11th hour. I'll just have to keep things on the cheap affordable side as best as possible. Conveniently/suspiciously, my Facebook feed today showed a local Marketplace listing for an adjustable track bar (panhard bar) and OE sway bar with disconnects from a JK Wrangler. Met up with the guy, talked shop, observed the cringe-face when I mentioned "unibody", and made the deal for $100 for everything. Track bar could be a $115 Amazon knock-off, a $150 Rough Country unit, or $325 Teraflex unit because they are identical. Key thing is that it's shaped to wrap around the diff cover and it's adjustable...and within the range I'd need it. Does need to be freshened up and bushings replaced, but that's easy stuff. The JK sway bar is straight and beefier compared the R50 unit, which I was already planning to reuse but poses some complications because of the shape. I'll probably toss or sell the disconnects that it came with; they're worn, but appear to be a rather expensive Teraflex set. I plan to run disconnects either way. Engine support bar arrived the other day and the garage is as clean as it's getting. I may start tearing things down in the morning. To be honest, this project terrifies me more than any other I've done so I'm dragging my feet to dive in. Pulling stuff off is easy, but there will eventually be a point-of-no-return moment that I hope I don't dread.

Ooh, looking forward to seeing this come together! You mentioned needing to do new bumpers as well, do you have anything in mind for those?

One more thing. Driveshaft: TBD, kind of. The pinion flange on the axle straps directly to a common Spicer 1310 u-joint. The R50 driveshaft uses an uncommon joint so I can't mate them, but the driveshafts in D21 Hardbodies and 1st and 2nd Gen Frontiers and Xterras did use 1310s. The D21, D22, and WD22 all run TX10s so they'll mate up perfectly, and the TX15 on D40 and N40 trucks has an output flange with the same pattern. I suspect the older driveshafts will be too short (I think they're about 1" shorter than the R50's), but the 2nd Gens are about 6" longer. Presuming they have enough slip on them, they might be perfect donors. Also, this is where the SUA has benefit. Hopefully, I won't need a truly custom driveshaft or a double-cardan joint since this will sit relatively lower than a SOA setup. This should also minimize the amount of clearance needed on the transmission crossmember, though I think the 2nd Gen driveshafts have a larger diameter than the 1st Gens.