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Update, so for the past week and half. the truck been slowly worked on, sitting on the hoist. Removing parts when i can come in, been getting help from the shop, Nissan Seals/Gaskets been a waiting game as we go along and see things that are needed Week ago, i installed these new belts lol off they come again to remove upper oil pan Under Carriage was pretty clean in turn made the removal of parts much easier Rear Main Seal This crush washer above the RMS was probably the longest wait Cleaning the upper oil pan and lower Box of hardware for the lift top to bottom. All Nissan parts except rear bump stop TO BE CONTINUE......

u beat me too it lol If u ever need parts number i also use infintipartsdeal.com it basically breaks down all components and part numbers

Ya totally hear ya...Ive known this buddy for like 20 years never have in my years and tons of cars I've owned have i used his option to use his shop til now. Well especially not this extensive. Ya it makes a huuuuuuuuuuge difference not having heavily rusted parts. Hey man at least u have all that, space and tools. I'm a home mechanic with cheaper brand tools, the other benefit is being here i'm surrounded with snap on tools if i need it and advice/help if needed. Good luck on the suspension overhaul guess PB blaster wont work, heat it is ha

Wow, must be nice having that kind of workspace available and a clean undercarriage to work on!! I'm currently doing my front suspension overhaul (due to a snapped coil) and so far I have about 12-14 hours into it. Almost every fastener has needed to be heated with the torch, backed off with a HD impact gun, most bolts have needed to be heated and beaten out. Luckily I have a decent size garage with a decent arsenal of tools, but the rust and corrosion is beating the hell out of me!

Same exact thing happened to me. One listing on eBay for OME coils (No image on listing). I bought them, they contacted me the next day and said they were damaged and refunded me. Listing removed and about a day later another seller had the that part number listed (also with no actual product image). I wonder if it’s like the sisterhood of traveling coils that the sellers dump off on other sellers. But yeah, I went with AC coils and I love them

You’re awesome man! Thanks a ton

Nissan Part No.:21230-8P300 - VALVE ASSY WATER CONTROL is the rear "thermostat" Nissan Part No.:21200-4W010 - THERMOSTAT ASSY is the thermostat on the front of the engine Sorry I didn't see this sooner. Hope that helps!

I Just finished installing new suspension in My '01 Pathfinder, up front I put in KYB Excel G-Gas Struts with Adelco Springs (Stock size) and a 1.5" SFCreations spacers (gives about a 2 inch lift), in the rear I put NRC9449 coils which are a HD Coil with KYB Gas-A-Just Gas Shocks (Have around a 2.5" plus lift in the back). I'll admit with the 9449 coils the back rides a lot stiffer especially over speed bumps. All in everything cost around $800 CAD with shipping. I used Rockauto, LRDirect, SFCreations. I did all the work myself, Struts were the hardest which took a few days and rear finished in a couple hours. The 9447 I believe gives close to a 2" lift in the rear.

New underbody camera is finally mounted. I went with a hard wire connection to fix the spotty connection issues the last one had, and so far so good. I’ve noticed that the front shaft spins with the wheels at all speeds so far, but I haven’t gone fast enough to get the 4wd error light or get rid of the vibration so I still don’t know what happens to the front shaft when that occurs. Time will tell, and I’ll update when I it happens. I ended up mounting it to the front of the crossmember that’s between the Tcase and tranny. I love the new spot because it lets me see the front wheels but also under the bumper for when I’m going over hills. And of course the underbody lights make it usable at night as well. My next goal is to shield it somehow so that it doesn’t get killed by road debris like the last one. I’m thinking super clear lexan, but it’s hard to figure out a way to mount the shield effectively or make any sort of box around it because there’s not much room where I put it

Just thought I would post a quick fix on the Day Time Running Light (DRL) Module. Recently my driver's side headlight would not work when i switched to low beams only, everything else worked fine. I went in and grounded the bulb for a quick easy fix. that worked for a few weeks until the other head light started to not work. I grounded that one and it stated to blow fuses. So I decided to open up the DRL module and inspect it. The Fix: Tools: 10 mm wrench Soldering Iron Solder with fluw electrical Flash light std screwdriver I pulled the DRL module and opened it up. After sufing the net a few site mentioned loose solder points on the circuit board. So I basically inspected the board visually and nothing seemed loose. Don't be fooled a connection does not need much to loose conductivity. I next started checking with a screwdriver how secure each solder point was. Low and behold 2 points were loose. I quickly soldered them up and closed the module up. 2 months later it's still working and the total cost was a fraction of what they charge at the wreckers. Just one more thing that is common on the R50's that I came across.