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thanks to everyone that post these helpful answers here. my pathfinder had the IACV and ECM failures, but it didn't start after replacing/repairing them. It was stuck in 2 different shops for months without them finding the problem, until I came across this and other forum threads that lead me to the ECCS 2 fuse that was the problem with my car not starting. my mechanic checked all the fuses with a tester, but the eccs 2 fuse does not get current before starting the engine, so it was never actually tested by the other people that worked on my pathfinder. I was even thinking about selling it as a parts car since no one was able to find the problem and it was not worth it to spend more money. So thanks again! I hope to keep my pathfinder at least a couple more years.

The X diff will work (and the first couple years of Xterra got a better LSD than the R50 did, which is supposed to swap right in), but the X housing is different because the Xterra went back to leaf springs for some reason. Weird that the noise would go away for a bit after messing with the brakes. Surely a bearing wouldn't calm down briefly because you messed with the brakes. Like the brakes are self-adjusting into the drum or something? If you do end up swapping the axle I'd be interested to see what's inside the old one, if it really is roached.

Forgot to mention the "don't drop it on your toes" part! I can relate on the trailer hitch. I did that at a gas station once and swore loud enough to make the guys at the next pump look uncomfortable. You may need to replace some seals before putting the axle back together if you do take it apart. Again I'd want to rule out the brake first (maybe wearing steel-toed shoes this time!) just to be sure you're not stepping over the easy thing to do the hard job first. Doesn't sound like it's got anything to do with the ring and pinion if it's just coming from the one side. I'd be surprised if the incorrect/worn out link caused much trouble apart from handling and noise, like you said. Maybe the link hammering back and forth could've damaged the brackets, but I'd be surprised if you caused any serious damage that way unless you were really beating the hell out of it. As far as I can see on Rockauto, the left/right arms look about the same, just slightly different brackets, so I doubt having two right arms would've caused damage, probably just made the E-brake cable or whatever hooks onto there more difficult to work with.

Yes sir. I loosened and retighend the ground screws,Cleaned the maf sensor and blew inside of dizzy out. Thanks for the help. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

So the misfire went away after messing with the plug wires?

I'm not familiar with an HG4B code. Should be HG46 or HG43. I'd expect 46 if you've got the auto trans. LSD oil does indicate limited slip. Before assuming it's the bearing, take the brake drum off and run your noise test again to make sure you're not mistaking a brake noise for a bearing noise.

This same scenario just happened to my 01 and wanted to chime in, in case someone else runs into this issue and is wondering what is going on. The Burning smell is a Triac on the ECM burning up. It will need to be repaired and also the IACV will need to be replaced. There is a fuse that blows under the hood as well which keeps the engine from firing up. I'm getting my ECM repaired as I've heard that if you buy a used one, it will need to be programmed from the dealer or lock smith cause it messes with the interlock switch not allowing you to start your vehicle. My two .02 cents worth.