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Finally got some new rims and tyres on, makes it look way more aggressive Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah just some cheap goodrides, 31x10.5 R15 on Roh black trak Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@mjotrainbrain convinced me to get back on here, so here’s some recent pics. I’ve got a friend in town who has a lifted forester (which actually has the same mirrors as the pathfinder). It’s pretty dope. I also got a new car a couple months ago, a 2002 Subaru Outback with a 5 speed manual, nicknamed the “swaggin wagon.” I’ve always liked this generation of outback, and I got a great deal on it. I absolutely love it, it’s super fun to drive, does amazing in the snow, gets great gas mileage, and actually can do the 80mph speed limit in Montana. I told myself I was gonna leave it stock but that didn’t last long. Here’s some pics. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's doable, but 2" W material would be better. For reference, this is what my current spacers look like: It's constructed of a piece of 2.5" sq. tube x 2.5" H x .250" wall, with 5.5" L x 2.5" W x .25" pads to make a 3" spacer (the height is irrelevant for this discussion, though; the 2.5" W base is what matters here). You could easily just use a 2.5" x 2.5" x 5.5" tube to replicate this like other spacers, normally 2" W x 4" H x 6" L for some of the traditional spacers. I did 5.5" L spacers to avoid having to notch anything for the passenger side where the brake lines come down (the metal guard shown in the pic). Here are the gotchas: 1. A 2.5" wide spacer is just a tad too wide. On the rear subframe, the width is perfect relative to the chassis. But, the unseen lower edge of the spacer actually sits atop a weld on the subframe, like so: For the rear spacers, you could obviously offset the holes on the spacer to get around that, but the spacer wouldn't sit flush. Also, if you do a simple tube approach, you have the radius edges to your advantage to some degree, but it may still be wide. 2. The front spacer is a little similar, but you can't offset the holes because of the lip on the chassis: Although this fits flat, it does barely contact similar weld on the subframe, it doesn't give much wiggle room for installation. The radius edge of the tube would help here. 3. A 2.5" sq. tube, presumably .250" if hitch steel, only leaves 2" of tool space inside the tube for tightening hardware. It's doable, but just be prepared to make a lot of small motions to get the upper hardware tightened. And if you orient the lower bolts tip-down (which you should), be sure to put those bolts in sometime before sandwiching things together, otherwise you might not have the clearance to insert the bolt or upper nut. That all said, eventually I will go to spacers with a 2"W base to get around those issues, or possibly convert these by welding on a 2"W x .25"H plate to the bottom of each spacer to clear the subframe welds (resulting in a 3.25" spacer).

There are gobs of heat exchangers out there & the price has dropped dramatically from what it was 10-15 years ago but still about $400-$600 once you add up all the supplies. There are some pretty good threads on it in some of the forums (ExPo/Overland Bound/T4R.org). It can & has been done but looked like a fair amount of expense & definite work. A hot shower would be awesome & they’re putting them on some of the off-road trailers using things like this CAMPLUX ENJOY OUTDOOR LIFE Pro BD158 1.58GPM Propane Tankless Gas Water Heater (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073F1PVHN/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_9?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1). I just have alot on my ToDo List before addressing that issue.

https://www.arb.com.au/nissan-pathfinder-r50-1999-2005/fuel-tanks-storage/ Can't find a price on it.

Finally got out and hit some trails with a friend yesterday, it had been way too long since I last went. Got some sweet video footage of some obstacles and also some sends over jumps but I haven't gotten them yet. More uploads to come! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

Definitely have been slacking on posting updates, but certainly haven't been slacking on the build. I moved to bozeman not too long ago and have been working full time 50+ hours a week as a truck driver, so I've finally been getting money and pretty much spending it all. I've done a bunch of little things that aren't worth mentioning, but you're gonna want to see the last few pictures for the ones that definitely are worth mentioning. Before that, enjoy some random pics taken between today and when I last posted. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

Today was a very successful day and I finally got something done on the pathy for the first time in awhile. Rear lift springs!! After a few failed attempts at getting my hands on a set of rear springs for my rig and way too long of driving around with the front higher than the back, I decided to try out some Land Rover springs which is the new thing to do I guess. I think I'm the first one on here to try the 9447's but I could be wrong. They fit right in and were super easy to get on. Huge huge thanks to Kyle for helping me out with the install. I didn't take measurements before, but it looks like they gave me close to 4" of lift from where it sat before with 20+ year old springs and shocks, and I'm so stoked with how it sits not. It was a very wet, rainy install but it was one of the best days I've had in awhile and was totally worth it. Thanks again Kyle for all the help and letting me use your tools, you're the best man. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And bolted in place: The VG33ER may have had a bracket that would just work but that was missing when we got the engine. My brother told me the VG33 altys have the tensioner boss offset closer to the block so the tensioneer bracket can be shorter than mine. I don't know if you could run the VG33 alty on the VG30 upper bracket with the VG33 tensioner? Oh man, really? It had not registered in my head yet that the oil pump boss on the RH side was .300 thicker as well. The lower radiator hose steel tube bolts onto the oil pump. With the VG33 oil pump the steel tube interferes with the power steering belt big time. There may be a VG33 part that solves this problem, but I didn't have one so I did this: Baked on enamel finish at the weld, and bolted in place: I also had to squish the tube a little bit to gain clearance where the belt could rub at the top. This was largely due to my thermo housing hose being really thick so it might not be necessary with a factory hose. That was a five minute project, from the time the light bulb came on until I finished bolting it to the motor. I hope when people find bolt-on solutions to any of these problems they will post them in this thread! It's no big deal for me to make or modify stuff but whenever possible I try to find bolt-on solutions for all the people that don't own fab shops. Trans cooler: When I did my '01 Xterra HD transmission swap I replaced the radiator so it had a good heat exchanger for the transmission. Massively overheating the old engine the last time out turned my ATF a little darker than I'd like and I can't use that heat exchanger anymore. My brother got me the wholesale hookup on a Hayden 24k pound rated transmission cooler. It's the plate type that apparently does a pretty good job of not over cooling the fluid in Winter: While the engine was out I also drained the transmission, pulled and drained the torque converter, filled it with Amsoil synthetic ATF, and indexed it back in. Well, that's actually about it. Everything you didn't see just bolted together the way it was designed too. When I first fired it the thing ran like crap. It was trying to run at about 300rpm but I was happy to see that even at at that low rpm it only took about five seconds for the oil pressure light to go out. I couldn't get it over 1500 rpm and figured I'd screwed up the TBI somehow. It turns out I had the distributor a tooth off! Derp. After that quick fix it fired right to life and purred like a kitten. I timed it to the stock setting. I had been running the VG30 advanced seven degrees and that made a definite increase in power. I don't need to push this new motor to the ragged edge as it should have plenty of power... for now. :cool: In the video it sounds like either the alty is screaming for mercy or the T-belt is too tight. Neither is the case. It's just the way the mic on my D2 really picks up higher pitched sound. The engine sounds completely normal in person. I can't get the video link to work right so you'll have to click the link: http://s284.photobucket.com/albums/ll35/Mister510/Pathfinder/VG34/?action=view¤t=2011-10-09_03-53-31_904.mp4 I've now put about 40 miles on the engine driving it around Seattle. The steering box I swapped in while the motor was out has a tight spot in the middle so I have not taken it on the freeway yet. All I can say so far is it hauls balls! It's the quickest Pathy I've ever been in, that's for sure. It has some serious snap, pulls hard to redline and has a huge increase in bottom end torque. I cannot stall my torque converter on dry pavement anymore as the truck starts crabbing sideways with wheel spin before it reaches 2k rpm. Stall speed is 2200. My butt dyno says if the VG30 made 150hp this one is well over 200. I look forward to surprising some ricer Honduhs with it! I will get some 0-60 and quarter mile times with the dyno app on my Droid 2 as soon as I get the steering fixed.