Rebelord Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Title says it all. Its not working at all. Is it worth it to rebuild it to try to make it tighter? Only other option is to opt for a air locker. Unless I can find a open diff and convert to a mechanical locker of sorts. Ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 What fluid is in the diff right now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted November 18, 2013 Author Share Posted November 18, 2013 Mobil 1 75W-90 Synthetic. Fresh. During my trip. Even tried that e-brake trick. Nope, was one wheel wonder even in slick mud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 I know this may seem like a ridiculous question, but was it LSD rated gear oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 i think the manual says it wants 80W-90, but 75W works just fine, i'm running the exact same thing, in my rig, with all the rain we have been having, i can attest that my rear LSD is working just fine, Was it LSD safe oil? Stupid question, but someone was going to ask it. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 It has friction modifiers in it or something like that. I know if you don't use oil specifically designed for a limited slip it can cause issues. Any of the stuff I have seen says it right on the container " for use in limited slip differentials" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgallant Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Really dumb question are you sure you have an LSD, other than that if it acts like an open then the friction plates are likely shot. So that becomes a rebuild, assuming the oil you put in is correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 (edited) While there are various types of mechanisms used to accomplish this miracle of redirected traction, most of them require friction modifiers unique to their own design to work correctly. An LSD without these special lubricants will at best not work correctly, and at worst fail outright - ending up costing a bundle to rebuild and repair. If your vehicle has an LSD, always be sure to use gear oil that contains the correct friction modifiers for that particular LSD. If you don't find a orange sticker on your pumpkin I would question whether it is an LSD or an open diff. Edited November 18, 2013 by SkiBumBrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted November 18, 2013 Author Share Posted November 18, 2013 Yes people im not naive. Its the MOBIL 1 75W-80 LSD OIL. Factory came with LSD by vin verification at dealer. Plus still has its orange sticker. Sent from my Moto X! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 It's all good, just asking, since you didn't specify I wanted to be clear, plus there was another question about safe lubricant. Sounds like clutch pack issues then! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Yes people im not naive. Its the MOBIL 1 75W-80 LSD OIL. Factory came with LSD by vin verification at dealer. Plus still has its orange sticker. Sent from my Moto X! Never said you were buddy, just making sure. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted November 18, 2013 Author Share Posted November 18, 2013 I wont be able to pull it for a couple of weeks. Depending on cost for new clutch packs. Might be cheaper to yank a open from a yard and put a lunch box locker. Sent from my Moto X! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 If my LSD goes away that is exactly what I will do..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 I love mine, but as a daily, it is a little bit of a chore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted November 19, 2013 Author Share Posted November 19, 2013 I daily drove a Detroit Tru Trac for years in my 2001 Z28. Break away on that was very tight, as close to full spool as possible. So, a tight LSD or locker wont bother me much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 Not doubting you! I think the super flexy rear end setup tends to exacerbate the clicks and clunks, at least compared to a low, leaf sprung axle. It's not bad, and I love it on the trail, just probably not everyone's cup of tea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathybuilder Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 I always wondered if any of the R50 guys ever tried mounting the LSD from a WD21 in the R50 housing. I've heard they are a little tighter than the R50 factory limited slip. You would definitely need to pull the axle shafts as well because they are 31 spline to match the carrier. It might be an upgrade though for any of those running drum brakes if you pulled the axle shafts with discs from an SE model. I guess it depends on the axle length. Just a thought. Not really sure if it would work, but it might be worth looking into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 Don't pre-facelift R50s have LSDs with higher breakaway torque (but not as high as a WD21/D21/D22)? Also see this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/22182-laxmans-2001-r50-lsd-modification-and-install/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted November 19, 2013 Author Share Posted November 19, 2013 (edited) Towncivilian: I have read that thread. Thats why I think it will be easier on my end to rebuild it if possible. By making sure its setup as: Friction Plate - Friction Disc as much as I can and eliminate any Friction Disk - Disk spots. At one point this weekend, if the rear would have been tighter. I could have made it out of a hole easy. But got stuck being it went into basically 2 wheel drive. Left front, right rear... Edited November 19, 2013 by Rebelord Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick13 Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 I may be in a similar situation, so I'm watching this thread. I was in some really slick snow/ice and watched both drivers front/rear tires spin while all my friends laughed at both passenger tires sit completely motionless. One of those situations that I thought was impossible with a my setup. ??? Anyways, weighing my options right now. If I open up my diff, I might convince myself to actually re-gear (of course front/rear). I know = crazy talk unless I make it happen. Anyways, watching this cause I know close to nothing about how to fix this issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted November 22, 2013 Author Share Posted November 22, 2013 With the prices Alkorahil posted. What I'm going to do first is drop the diff. Take a good look at it. Take some measurements and see if I can just replace and re arrange it to have Friction Disk - Plate - Disk as much as I can to tighten it up. If not, then totally not worth the money to mess with the stock stuff. Just find a open from a junker and put in a PowerTrax for less than 500 or go all out to a ARB locker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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