FirstGenFreak
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Posts posted by FirstGenFreak
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I can't speak to your car specifically but in almost every instance personally, a rebuilt OEM exchange unit has lasted far longer than an aftermarket unit.
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Good outcome. Glad it is going to be saved!
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On 2/8/2024 at 8:31 AM, PathinTX said:
All this fails, you need a new gauge.
what gauge are you talking abt
the gauge in the dash cluster ?
That would be the fuel gauge, on/in your cluster -
Remove fuel pump assy from the tank and check your sender operation using a multimeter whicle manually lifting the float- the ohm readings will be in a FSM.
Check continuity from fuel pump connector to connector in cluster - this will verify the wiring is good.
Check for dry solder in the cluster - an indication of this is if you can thump the top of the dash, and the gauges work momentarily.All this fails, you need a new gauge.
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What Dan said, Run a multi to the positive terminal on your alternator and see what its doing.
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Try disconnecting the wire to the air conditioning compressor, sounds like the compressor is bad- possibly sticky when engaged.
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Any coolant smells? Check your heater core, check for rust in the bulkhead up behind the bonnet hinges too.
Failing that have your windshield resealed, I had mine done about 12 months ago.
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Plenty of rust-free WD21s going begging over here in Australia.
They are almost exclusively rust free and no-one wants them sadly. -
On 10/10/2014 at 2:46 PM, beachbum101 said:
I've been looking for a ARB style bull bar for my 91 model wd21, and I just cannot seem to find any for sale. Are there any other cars with similar mounting points that could fit on mine? Thanks heaps, I am desperate as I do a lot of country/bush driving and I'm worried I'll hit a roo
LN106 Hilux or RA Rodeo fit with some slight modification. You need to make your own mounts though.
I have an LN106 one here I am slowly getting around to fitting -
My first instinct was to buy a complete car but the KA powered D22 is actually quite a rare thing over here, they were quickly eclipsed by the diesel engines.
I have found an intake, looking at the runners I am not sure how good it would work if I was to adapt my existing Weber DGV to the old throttle body position.
Dual side drafts would be nice but that will kill economy.
I'm all sorted with the distributor.The other option is to go to an aftermarket EFI ECU management system like a MegaSquirt, which some of the Ratsun guys are running.
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So the old slug has been going wonderfully, except for a failed fuel pump (changed on the side of the road and was still in time for work!)
The Z 24 is getting tired, it has over 500,000km on it.
Many years ago I was contemplating the Twin Cam EFI KA24 engine swap.
Well, I came across a low KM engine this weekend gone.
I am not sure whether to adapt late model (D22) Factory manifolds and EFI or whether I am gong to try and run a carburettor for simplicity and ease of maintenance.
Either way it will be a huge improvement!
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7 hours ago, willaay said:
I definitely paid a nostalgia premium for the car but I'm okay with it haha
Nothing wrong with that! I just bought back my '86 2 door that I sold 4 years ago, and paid twice what I sold it for, and probably twice what I would have paid if it wasn't my old car.-
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7 hours ago, willaay said:
I bought the truck for about $8700 - honestly I have no idea what a fair market price would be but I had to have it.
Welcome Willaay
I'm not usually a fan of 4 doors but that is a thing of beauty and I think it was worth every cent!-
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Check your grounding is good to the pump too, and make sure your fuel tank is clean and the sock at the bottom isn't blocked.
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I have found a set thanks, just to close this thread.
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If you've ever had your headliner out and had a look inside the roof, you wouldn't put much on there! There is no reinforcement except 2 thin pressed steel braces that bolt in. If you make your own rack, keep the mounting points as far out as you can, closer to the fold above the rear windows.
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Checked ignition timing?
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Make sure your jets are ordered form the same place you buy you carb- genuine Italian Webers and the Spanish, or the Chinese FAJS webers all use different jetting sizes, can be hard to match up.
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Checking the oil about a week ago I noticed all of these cracks in the engine fan:
Probably not too far off letting go!
Found a new OEM blade, not an easy part to find these days, although I am sure there are other 80s nissans that could donate a 2nd hand one.
Another job ticked off the list. Next is to build a battery tray and get the 2nd battery back in (another thing the PO removed) and fit my fridge/freezer in the back.
Going out to chase the yella tomorrow, looking forward to it.
Stay safe all.-
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Clutch Slave issues all sorted and I'm really loving having the car back.
Went exploring (we have a book of 250 Victorian Waterfalls, we are trying to see them all) and done a bit of metal detecting last weekend.
Car ran great and a lovely time was had!
Stay Safe
FGF-
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Welcome GWB!
Look fwd to seeing your beast come together
Post up some pics!
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3 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:
That Ford Patrol is hilarious. Yeah, just slap a badge on it, nobody will notice it's not really a Ford. Maybe pull the side cladding off, too. Yeah, there we go. Totally different.
It was very common for marques to do badge swaps here in Australia through the late 80s - Nissan swapped that with Ford Australia for the ford ute:
How a Ford Falcon ute became a Nissan The Ute | CarAdvice -
They're not hard, you'll need a G clamp or some large multigrips to push the pistons back in the calipers.
Definitely repack your bearings and do your hub seals while you're in there.
A good mechanic with a shop and hoist could do the whole shebang in a couple of hours.
Download a FSM and find a mate that will give you the use of their driveway for an afternoon.Also, if your mechanic finds this task "very difficult", I'd be looking for another mechanic that knows what on earth they are doing.
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13 minutes ago, Slartibartfast said:
Clean rig! And yeah, I hear you on the carrier, they do get in the way sometimes. I've hitched up a trailer and gotten it all hooked up and then realized the carrier's open and won't shut because the trailer's in the way.
Haha, yeah or you need to remove the spare to unhitch the trailer.....-
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Help Removing Clutch Master Cylinder
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
Even a heatgun may get you over the line.