FirstGenFreak
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Posts posted by FirstGenFreak
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Wow, that's not a place where you want frame rot. I would bet what you can see is only the tip of the iceberg and what's left is thin and pitted.
I'd be looking for another frame, but that's easy for me to say from here in Oz where we don't experience that sort of frame corrosion.I hope you manage to save it!
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Awesome, glad you got it sorted!
I had the equivalent / earlier model of these:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/313197587317
6.5 " round in the back (on a 2-door this is next to the passenger seat) and 4" pioneer speakers in the doors, so a 4 speaker system (plus tweeters) in total.
The tweeters make all the difference over all-in one speakers, but that's personal opinion. It all comes down to location and overall layout.
The ones you linked should work fine (probably better)!
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Hmm... Can't help you there. I normally just run my own new wiring rather than trust what is there.
Hopefully you get it sorted, will be interesting to see what the culprit is. -
Check your balance and fader settings, may just be set to bias one side/front or rear. Also check for any shorts.
Also check of your equalizer has a 'loud' setting.
Are you running component speakers? If so use their crossover and wire directly. if you are still wired through factory wiring your signal may be going through factory amp or remote mounted crossovers which will separate high and low range
Also are you running speakers mounted or just sitting on the floor? The difference in sound will be huge.
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56 minutes ago, TheGhost said:
Hmm ok. I think I might do something in the middle of both of these, two way 5x7s in the doors and then try add some new small tweeters after a while to the columns. I think they are fully dead and it could be the amp as the left door speaker is also 90% out, it gives a very very weak signal that I can only hear when pumping the volume up and the fade to the left.
The head unit is JVC KD-SX980 (http://resources.jvc.com/Resources/00/00/97/49709ien.pdf) which looks like it can be used without the factory amp? Maybe this afternoon I will try bypassing the front amp with some hacked wires and see if that fixes the front left speaker.
I ran a JVC head unit in my last setup outlined above. No amp. (Neither of mine had/have factory amp)You need to watch overall size and magnet diameter or you will lose the ability to roll your window right down, or not fit in the door (the doors are thin front-to-back).
Mine is a 2 door, I needed to trim up some sheetmetal and riveet over one side of the factory hole to close it off to suit the 6.5" speakers.
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Not sure how the factory ones were set up, but modern component speakers with good crossovers and tweeters sound amazing, as long as you have them positioned right.
On my last pathy I used Blaupunkt 6.5" component speakers in the rear with the tweeters mounted at the top of the A pillars(check location doesn't interfere with your sunvisors... I learnt that the hard way!)
...and some 4" speakers in the front doors. It sounded so good that I've bought all the same bits for my white one.
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Performance Steering Components PSC FHK110 PSC Full Hydraulic Steering Systems | Summit Racing - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Looks like plenty of kits available, I don't think there is any getting around doing your own measurements and calcs to get the right stroke length. -
15 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:
Nice space! Good thing you got a picture with it all clean and empty, it's never gonna look like that again.
Correct haha, I already have the WD, 2 old mopars and my harley to go in there, so she is going to be tight! Luckily we have 2 other single car garages on the property.
I made the extra trip up there just to epoxy the floor, other wise it will never happen once we move. -
So our new garage/shop is ready and I have just sold my place in the 'burbs of Melbourne.
Zero Covid cases for 3 weeks here so the lockdowns are over in our state for now
Will be moving up to our rural property in about 8 weeks so you can expect some updates on this turd!
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If you have the energy, you could change the whole diff out for a factory LSD far cheaper than buying a locker, although it is hard to find a low mile, tight LSD nowadays.
I'm doing the same to mine, which also has an open rear.
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4 hours ago, TheGhost said:
oops..
Hi dean are you still around to help me with this? Today I pulled and re-loomed the 8 wire bundle with the transfer switches. I have two transer/4wd indicator switches, each with one single wire but two terminals for that wire on the switch itself. Both of mine have the wire to the switches hanging on by barely a thread to one of the terminals of the switches.
I'm confused why there is only one wire to each switch when the switches themselves have two separate leads/connection points on them? Is that right? How do you know which connection point is the right one?
I guess my 4x4 light doesn't work or these switches/wiring is busted because the lamps has never illuminated. How to I buy new leads/switches if I cant fix it myself? I checked my local auto shop and rockauto and the part doesn't seem to exist.
The wires can be soldered back on, done it before. Still got to do my current pathy when I get around to it. Doesn't matter which way the wires go, it's jus an on/off switch, single polarity
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Good luck, hopefully you find it a good home and make a dollary-doo or two.
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Have you had a wheel alignment recently?
If the steering wheel has been re-fitted off-centre (bad alignment shops often cause this) the wheel may need close to a full-turn to hit the detents on the switch.
Also - make sure the two roll pins are in place on the bottom of the steering wheel. -
Start with a wanted ad in the classifieds here but I think you'll have more luck on the FB groups. If you get really stuck I am looking at a parts car here in oz in a week or so.
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I hope you find a new owner for it. I had one the same colour.
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Depends whether you're here to sell your car or to contribute to the forum.
Plenty of info around on here if that's what you need, to sell I'd try the NPORA fb page or the World wide WD21 owners page.
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Love it!
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Sounds like input shaft bearing is worn, possibly due to underfilling, there is a TSB on the early manual trans, stating they need to overfilled.
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Not sure what it is like over there but locally for us in Aus it is really hard to find a good alignment shop.
Between the WD21 and all of the Mopar A bodies I have had over the years, I find a lot of them do not know how to set these old girls up.
9 of 10 shops will set the toe and send it out.
Last alignment I did myself on my WD I done using a stringline, some straightedges and a tape measure (after lift and front end rebuild) and it was the best the thing ever driven.-
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Obvious, but have you checked the fluid level with the engine running in park?
Reverse is normally the first indication of failure on an automatic transmission, being slow or failing to select reverse is usually a warning sign.-
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Banned for having a hairy back!
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Thanks Mr Reverse,
Can easily remedy that
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Morning all,
Does anyone know the P/N for the US/LHD factory steering centrelink? And if there is a difference? Look the same to me going on pictures.
Planning what I am going to do on my rig once I get out of lockdown (looking like being next year at this point) and wanting to get my hands on a grassroots CL for my truck which is RHD.
Need to work out whether or not I need to send him one or not.
Cheers All.
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There are two different parts, different taper and diameter on tie rods. You have a mismatch, so you either need to change your tie rods or your CL.
my vehicle has turned into a weeble wobble
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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From 2009? Holy thread revival!