DesertKyle
-
Posts
72 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
6
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by DesertKyle
-
-
On 7/20/2023 at 1:41 PM, XPLORx4 said:
Is that part number indicated on their website catalog yet?
I couldn't tell you, I just called with the part numbers from this thread and the nice lady told me they have a kit now.
FWIW I had to make a new channel for the set screws about a 0.25" in from one of the existing ones to get the rack rotated enough. Always fun taking an angle grinder to shiny new parts
-
Woodward has gotten so many requests they have a kit for 4" SFD pathfinders now, pn DK-1P. Ran me about $180 before shipping.
The Honda steering extension from a 4th gen Accord is too long if you rotate the rack. Also the splined section from the Honda is larger than the Nissan's causing poor fitment, do not recommend.
-
I've ran most of my @!*%boxes on T4 over the years and they all had over 200k at the time and have never had an issue. This is just my experience though and everyone has a favorite oil. I also live in a very hot climate (southern Arizona).
As the motor wears and clearances increase it should help if anything. As long as the motor is spec'd for it, I wouldn't try it in something calling for 0w20 or the like. What's supposed to be bad is switching to synthetic oil on a high mileage engine as it can free up excess sludge and junk and tends to leak more.
Depending on how bad your leaks are it might not make a drastic difference but it just might make your motor happier
Edit to add I'm at 223k, truck had 196k when I got it
-
My vq leaks considerably less and runs quieter with Rotella T4 15w40 for what that's worth. Valve cover gasket shouldn't affect oil pressure, the oil is just gravity draining back to the pan at that point. If its not smoking and your not constantly smelling burning oil I wouldn't worry about it on the trip. Always a good idea to have a fire extinguisher in the vehicle though! Lol
-
2
-
-
By driveline I mean driveshaft. If the shop has the equipment to balance driveshafts they should have no problem with it.
It's been a couple years since I did the front, they may not have come with multiple snap rings, I might be getting it confused with the rear. I've never needed a different size though and I doubt you will either. A driveshaft shop would be able to figure it out either way
-
1
-
-
Pretty sure I'm running the 53218X from rockauto in front. The yokes are steel
-
1
-
-
I wouldn't recommend doing them yourself without a hydraulic press. I've done a few now and they all required a press.
The different snap rings are used to center the u joint but mine always took the same size that was on there (usually the skinniest). Spicer u joints should include the 3 different size rings. Spicer is the only brand I'll use for u joints.
On my rear drive shaft I used machinist calipers to center the u joints and it worked great with no vibrations (till I snapped my upper control arms and the yokes got bent
). I have a lokka and manual hubs in front so didn't really worry about centering the u joints in front since the hubs are never locked over 25mph.
It's pretty straight forward but getting them centered and not messing anything up makes it tedious and a bit of a pain in the ass. If you're not comfortable doing it yourself I would take it to a specialist driveline shop, the average mechanic will not have done many (if any) of these.
-
2
-
-
Been contemplating welding an open diff lately, but I still daily drive it too much lol. Not sure how much better this style of auto locker would be, my front's pretty clunky and doesn't always unlock when coasting.
That being said I'm still pretty excited and will likely order one as soon as its available
-
1
-
-
I used large fender washers and a nylock nut on 3 of the 4 side bolts. The rear top one looked rather difficult to fish the hardware onto so I opted to rivnut it.
Looks like I'll be replacing my hinge pins with bolts soon, One of them has started to rattle badly. Oh joy
. I'll probably raise the tire mount another 4" (at least) then as I'm dragging it on the ground every time I wheel even with it raised 2" already. More lift will also help with this (coming soon).
TBH l'm not really thrilled with this carrier. It doesn't feel as solid as I'd hoped, with just a little too much force opening or closing it the body buckles an alarming amount. Kinda wishing I'd waited till I build a bumper and made my own. The factory one does look good though and once I raise the spare some more it shouldn't be so bad.
-
You can open the gas cap when this happens to check for vacuum in the tank and see if it makes any difference in how it runs.
How's your maf sensor? Mine does something similar when its dirty, was real bad with the k&n that came in the truck.
-
Looks like I will not be around this weekend. Maybe in January? I've been wanting to plan a trip to Sedona too if that's any better for you
-
That might work. Not sure what our Christmas plans are yet, but if I'm in town I'm down. Can let you know in the next few days
-
Had some fun with the truck this weekend!
-
7
-
-
Finally found a tire carrier last week after searching for a while. This thread made it a lot less daunting but man that was still one of the most tedious things I've done on the truck. I'd definitely recommend making a template for the latch hardware off the donor vehicle if possible, I didn't do this and was kicking myself for it. My bumper support is pretty mangled though and I'm missing all the plastic fasteners so it's not surprising it didn't make the best template lol.
I welded rather than riveted the reinforcement piece. Feels real solid!
Had to make some relief cuts on the underside and bend it ever so slightly to match the curve of the truck.
Installed
I'll be spacing out the mount and raising it 2" asap as I don't like how low the 33 sits, thanks hawairish for the idea (and for starting this whole thread!). And thanks to everyone else in this thread, couldn't have done it otherwise!
-
5
-
-
If you can't find a magnetic drain bolt I'd just add a Magnafine inline filter by the trans cooler and call it good.
-
Sounds good. Wanna shoot for early December? My schedule is pretty flexible, just let me know what works for you.
-
Cool! Maybe we can get a couple more Phoenicians interested. If not I have some non-pathfinder friends who would be down.
-
+1 on timken and using a brass punch/rod to knock the races out. I used the old races and big sockets to hammer the new races in. Pretty cheap on rockauto, think I paid around $80 for all four.
-
3
-
-
On 11/8/2020 at 6:23 PM, PathyGig12 said:
Thanks man, I appreciate you taking the time to toss some possibilities out there.
Originally I was going to just drop it off at the shop and see what they thought but I realized I would just end up paying for an hour of diagnosis to hear them suggest something I’ve already tried or shrug and vaguely indicate some mounts that MAY need to be replaced.
NPORA saves me a lot of repair money, that’s for sure! But then again it also drains my wallet seeing all of the sweet build ideas lol
No problem, hope it helps! I feel ya, between the maintenance and the mods it never ends lol. Keeps me busy though!
-
2 hours ago, PathyGig12 said:
The diff bushings are still in play with the hubs disengaged because the front shaft still spins due to drag in the clutch plates, so yeah the bushings can still be responsible for the highway vibration.
The control arm bushing that had a bit of play is definitely something I’d like to get sorted but it had a LOT less play than the diff bushings so I’ll start there first. The other thing to mention is that my control arms are new as of about a year ago so I doubt they went bad already
I also changed my front wheel bearings several months ago when I was trying to figure out the vibration issue, so I know those are brand new and solid
Oh yeah and to answer your other question, no I don’t have any shimmy in the steering wheel while driving, either straight or turning
Interesting, I didn't realize that was the case with the electronic t-cases. Sounds like you're on the right track then, whenever I've had bad control arm bushings I could feel it in the steering wheel. Good luck!
-
Forgot to say if your hubs are disengaged the diff bushings shouldn't be causing any symptoms on the road. Bad control arm bushings will cause a vibration though.
Have you checked your wheel bearings lately?
-
4 hours ago, PathyGig12 said:
Just checked the front diff mounts and the bushings all have significant play. I’m not sure if this is the cause of my clunk but I’m thinking at the very least it’s the cause of my highway vibration. Just sucks that each mount is 100 bucks
I also checked for movement in the strut top nut while bouncing the front end and verified the torque is correct. All good there.
The steering rack bushings are solid as far as I can tell. No movement when I crank the wheel back and forth. But I did notice a slight play in one of the control arm bushings nearest to the crossmember that the rack is mounted on. I doubt this is causing the clunk though because I couldn’t get any sound out of it while moving it around
My first step will be swapping out the diff mounts and then if that doesn’t work I’ll replace the tie rod that has the busted boot. And then lastly I’ll look into removing the struts to check for correct spring seating and make sure the mounts and bearings are not compromised
Do you have any vibration/shimmy in your steering wheel while driving?
When its clunking it has over 4000lbs of truck pushing on it, I doubt you'll be able to replicate it by hand unless it's totally shot. It'll also move significantly more while driving than you can move it by hand. I'd start by replacing the control arm as that's the only component with play in it that you've found. Also sounds like a likely culprit based on the conditions you've described, at least from my experience.
16 hours ago, AR97Pathfinder said:Sorry, but where are the bushings located on the rear diff?
Im not sure Ive looked at that yet and how would you change those out?
Front diff/axle
-
Any of you Arizona folk interested in coming down to Tucson to run The Gap? It's finally open after the fire this summer and it's gnarly as ever! Would be super cool wheel with some other pathfinders, I've yet to see another lifted one in town let alone on the trail. My schedule is wide open these days, let me know!
-
Ran rug road to turkey creek this week, what an incredible trail and area!!
-
8
-
SFD Steering Link details
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted