Jump to content

NPORA Staff email addresses have been restored for over two weeks now and most have updated and accessed by individual staff.  If you have tried to contact a staff member by email and they have not responded please make a second attempt using the forums Private Message system. If that is also unsuccessful please reach out to another member of the staff.

PrecisionX

Members
  • Content Count

    152
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

About PrecisionX

  • Rank
    NPORA Veteran

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    N/A
  • Place of Residence
    New England
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    Other/Unknown
  • Year
    2001

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New England
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

1,661 profile views
  1. Looking for info and pics on how to remove fender flares for POR rust stopper treatment. 2001 R50
  2. I have a 2001 R50 and I’m getting bubbles around my driver side mirror and was hoping to get some DIY help to remove it so I can do some POR ing.
  3. Where is the bleeder nipple and is the incline supposed to be engine at highest point or lowest point? I have ramps I can drive up on. currently the original upper his is leaking, I’m just replacing the upper hose what does the heat and fan blower need to be set on and how do I know when it’s done?
  4. The other day I noticed a coolant drip from under my vehicle at idle and when I got it home I noticed that the upper radiator hose was spitting out coolant. I did not overheat but I ordered a new upper Radiator hose and clamps which seems like a pretty straightforward job however I have never bled a cooling system before and can’t find any good videos on it either so I was hoping someone could help me out and give me a step-by-step how to so that I can keep my 216,000 mile Pathfinder alive! Thank you
  5. What are the bolt specs on this?
  6. I have an 01 Pathfinder with a 3.5 and 212k. The alternator is a year old and the battery is less than that. I started up my truck this morning just fine and I’ve been driving it all day but when I went to shut it off to get fuel it would not start. I tried three more times and it would not start I gave it a minute and then it turned over . Is my starter on its way out and if so how easy is it to replace ? I am not even getting a click when it decides not to start
  7. Replaced the rear drums and shoes, pads, rotors and calipers and the vibration is gone but I do have a slight humming from the diff. Fluid is clean with no metal shavings at all.
  8. The vibration feels like it’s throughout the truck and in the steering wheel it’s more faint. It’s not WTF is that I need to pull over but it’s prominent enough that you notice it. I’m picking it up today and will update
  9. This started happening after my rear drums were replaced, I’d get brake shake from the rear and then this turned into cutting the drums and it ended up turning into consistently shaking at highway speeds only between 60-80. If I’m below that it’s gone. My steering rack is leaking internally, a tie rod has play, just had both front axles replaced. The shop mentioned it to me because they wanted to let me know that the shake probably wouldn’t go away once the brakes were replaced. He’s “95 percent sure it’s the dif” but all these things point to wheel balance
  10. To get a little deeper about the symptoms it’s essentially a vibration between 60-80mph, there is ZERO vibration before. The truck is naturally noisy that I can’t tell if it’s louder or not. I’m running Hankook Dynapro ATMs in 245/75. My rear drums and shoes have given me an issue enough that they’re getting replaced after a few months of getting brake shake in the rear under braking. The fronts are being replaced too but the Vibration starts without braking, just on the highway. The truck is clean with minimal to no rust, it’s a Texas rig. I’d hate to see this be the end as I think a differential rebuild or replacement is probably more expensive than the trucks worth keeping. Mechanics have told me to check a wheel balance first and drive it on the highway, put it in neutral and if the vibration goes away it’s a drivetrain issue, if it’s still there it’s a wheel balance issue.
  11. Is my differential toast? 2001 LSD with 210k? Fluid is honey colored, dif is hot to the touch and there’s a vibration between 60-80mph only. Nothing before. Shop put a stethoscope to it and said he can hear the pinion bearing grinding I think? What are my options and is it worth it or is it a wheel balance issue? Fluid was changed at 135 and 30k ish after, both front and rear.
  12. Is my differential toast? 2001 LSD with 210k? Fluid is honey colored, dif is hot to the touch and there’s a vibration between 60-80mph only. Nothing before. Shop put a stethoscope to it and said he can hear the pinion bearing grinding I think? What are my options and is it worth it or is it a wheel balance issue?
  13. Forerunners are out simply because they are too expensive private sale. we aren’t opposed to buying another SUV but essentially we are looking for the best vehicle be at a wagon or a four-wheel-drive SUV . It would need to be classified in the bullet proof segment. With the exception of the Subarus head gasket issues we are looking for something that does not have any known catastrophic failures that are in evitable

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please REGISTER to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...