hcr32

Super easy to do. Link

Well said, DO NOT use HID's unless you have projector housings made for it. It's so frustrating when Im driving down the road and getting blinded by some fool who has them in. It's dangerous and it looks like crap.

I figured it had something to do with the forum transfer. O well...maybe the OP can see this and repost them? Really interested in doing this swap on my D21 and just need a few pictures to guide me along.

Is it just me or are none of the pictures in this thread working anymore? Won't display...

Great! Thanks very much for the link! I thought I had seen a more detailed Manual other then the Chilton one I got kickin around. Thanks again

Hey guys, Crawled under the rig today and noticed that the front oil seal on the transfer case was leaking. Never tackled one of these jobs before and wanted to see if anyone had done it before. If so, is it just as simple as marking the driveshaft, removing it, removing the yoke from the t-case then prying out the seal, installing the new one and then reverse? Thanks again

Damn! That is a good price. Too bad I live up In Canada and with shipping and duty it'd be cheaper to get them here

I got's me a D21 tooo.. Check out my Members Rides section too.. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32684-hcr32s-hardbodyversion-2/

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MOOG-K9515

I'm going to try that tomorrow. My plan is. -Ground drivers side headlight -Get a relay harness off eBay -H4 conversion Should be nice n' bright after

Alright, I'll tell you the whole story. First off, I DID SEARCH, before someone gets ****** with me for not searching. I discovered the problem may be a faulty headlight switch.. Anyways the story. So the other day I noticed that when I turned the truck on and released the parking brake the drivers side highbeam headlight came on. Came home, did some searching and noticed a common problem is the headlight switch. So I ordered a new one (not here yet) and decided to take the current switch off the and see if I could clean the contacts or anything. Took the switch off the stalk, looked @ it..wiped it etc. Before I put the switch back in I decided to start the truck and release the parking brake to see what would happen. the drivers side high beam STILL came on. So @ this point Im thinking that it may be something to do with the daytime running light module. I located the daytime running light module, unplugged it and turned the headlights on. All the lights worked EXCEPT the drivers side headlight...wouldn't do a thing. So plugged the DRL module back in, and now Im back @ square one...start the truck, release the parking brake, drivers side highbeam on. If I turn the running lights on they come on, highbeam still stays on, if I turn the headlights on the drivers side goes to low beam and everything else works as normal. Flick the highbeams on with the headlights on they work as normal. Sorry for such a long story but I just wanted to make sure all info is there so you electrical wizards may be able to give me a hand! Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!

The picture below the one you quoted is a picture of the rod with that steel collar off. Most of what looks damaged and screwed up is that steel spacer...wasn't bad once it was off....i little notch worn into the rod and thats it.

I've used POR-15 with awesome results compared to any other rust paint. Pretty stupid body shops to be using a paint that is $150/gallon here...

POR-15! Google it...it's the absolute BEST for rust. www.por15canada.com

go to www.thefinalcost.com You enter in all the info and it'll tell ya!

Wierd, it's a got a Pathfinder front end..

"HCR32" is the chassis code for a Nissan Skyline GTS-T (Look in the "Vehicles of the Past" thread if you wanna see a picture) I got that car when I was like 18 when I first started getting into forums and stuff and it sort of just stuck for a name for forums I go on. Although I don't even have that car anymore..o well..

Welcome! I got a 87' Hardbody and recently went through and replaced EVERY vacuum line. If you google "z24i vacuum diagram" theres some good diagrams that pop up.

As long as their 15 years old you can bring them in to Canada. Back when I imported those Skylines they were expensive since they just became legal to import. I paid about $12,000 all said and done for that GTR. Now you can get a decent GTR in Japan for about $2000 + shipping and everything else. And shipping rates have gone SKY HIGH in the last 6 years.

Fast one again after.. 1993 Nissan Silvia Another Delica.. 1993 Mitsubishi Delica Then a good commuter.. 2001 ford Escort ZX2 After, a more people friendly commuter..hated the color tho.. 2002 Mazda Protege5 Then wanted to 4x4 again. This thing was mint..only 100,000km's on it 1990 Jeep YJ But I hated the jeep life so I've stopped buying and selling stuff and just stuck with this for the past 2 years 1993 Nissan 240sx LE. Bone stock (and it's going to stay this way, haha and only 140,000km's on it) and my truck of course 1987 Nissan Hardbody Ok that's it..well actually 3 more I could put in there i had for winter cars. 1981 Toyota Tercel Wagon, 1983 toyota Tercel HB and a 1991 Ford Crown Vic.

Wow, this will bring back memories... First Car (Dad bought me) 1988 Pontiac Grand Am 2nd car I bought 1990 Nissan 240sx and transformed it into this... Then got bored and bought this 1991 Nissan Skyline GTS-T Then wanted a faster one.. 1992 Nissan Skyline GT-R AWD Then wanted something reliable again.. 1992 Nissan 180sx Something fun to take offroad after. 1991 Mitsubishi Delica Exceed

Wasn't able to get the torque wrench in there..and really there is no way since the bracket basically prevents it so I just "guessed" as best I could with the wrench. Im going to drive for a bit then snug it up after/

O crap! Thanks for pointing that out. I knew I shouldn't do much when I'm overtired! haha Thanks for the heads up!

I probably could have done it without removing the wheels but I did just for easier access.