SAS and gears

[BOKER420]

One more thing. My dad also suggested to buy a jeep wrangler that is already all tricked out and then put my pathfinder almost back to stock for my daily driver. There is a jeep wrangler in my local auto trader that has a 427 hemi in it. It advertises being the fastest jeep in Minnesota. sweet.

[Vsicks Pathy]

One more thing. My dad also suggested to buy a jeep wrangler that is already all tricked out and then put my pathfinder almost back to stock for my daily driver. There is a jeep wrangler in my local auto trader that has a 427 hemi in it. It advertises being the fastest jeep in Minnesota. sweet.

All well and good to have the fastest if you want to race it I suppose. Other than that, the point would be what?

[SC88Pathy]

Their nicknames aren't "Just Empty Every Pocket" for nothing!

[Vsicks Pathy]

Back to the steering talk. I told my dad about L&P's steering upgrades and he suggested why not just find a full size truck tie rod set that is a little bigger and beefier than the stock nissan stuff and then take the centerlink and drill out the hole to fit the full size truck tie rods. Ans then take the idler and pitman arms off and fab up some kind of U shaped metal piece to wrap around them and weld it up. That way you would have strengthened up the arms and would have tie rods that are strong enough for a fullsize truck which should handle 33's.

 

Or since there is soo much after market stuff for certain trucks you could buy a set of after market tie rods that you would normally put on a lifted truck. Using those guessing that they would be stronger then stock it would beef up the pathy steering even more.

 

This all said. I just can't get over how L&P can charge 300+ just for putting hevier duty ball joints in the centerlink. Modifing it at home and buying off the shelf tie rods from a full size truck would be cheaper if you go with an american truck and you could probably do this all with a drill press and hand drill. I still have my old centerlink from when I replaced my steering with stock stuff before so I'm going to try it out on that and see how it works.

 

If anyone actually reads this whole thing let me know if this has been done before and if it worked or if it hasn't been done then if you think it would work.

Thanks

No, I have not heard of anyone doing what you suggest. That is not to say that it can not be done if you engineer everything correctly. Sounds like it will take a while and a fair amout of $ though.

 

You have not said how you will incorperate any of this to the Nissan stub axle assembley. Are you suggesting a one peice drag link like a truck uses? If so that will not work with the IFS front end. Car and truck parts, in general, do not mix! If you are only talking about larger TRE's then you will have to make a new drag link altogether otherwise you risk the wheels pointing out and no room to turn them in. Then you will have to be able to get an idler arm and tha pitman arm to somehow fit also. Then you have to find someone to enlarge and retaper the recieving holes for the ball joints on the stub axles, idler and pitman arm. Thats if you are going to be left with enough steel to do that that is. By the way, the pitman arm on the Pathfinders are fine, they are as strong as nails.

 

Sounds like a good project if you can get over a few hurdles. I wonder why SLR and Calmini etc. never thought of doing it that way?

Good luck and let us know what you plan to do.

[BOKER420]

Here's exactly what I'm thinking.

 

 

find heavier duty tie rods that have either the same size ball joint nipple or a size just a bit bigger then stock. Stock nissan tie rod ball joint nipple is a hair over 1/2" so find one that is maybe 5/8" If I retappered the center link and the spindle where the tie rods hook up then I could put the bigger tie rods on. If the tie rods are too long then I would just cut some of the threads off.

 

Either leave the ball joints that are pressed in the center link alone or find some bigger ones that can be put in there. But with my steering the weak spot is the tie rods so I think if I just do the above then It might be strong enough.

 

If you go with a tie rod off of lets say a ford truck. Those are cheaper then stock nissan ones and would be stronger I would think. The little bit of material that would be taken off of the center link shouldn't weaken it much if any. This could very easily be a waste of time but since I have a spare center link I'm going to try.

 

If this fixes the problem I'd be looking at 125.00 or so for the tie rods and adjuster, thats way cheaper then buying the L&P or Calmini steering system. And if it doesn't work then all of you will have learned one more thing that doesn't work. I just don't have the money for the $400-$500 steering upgrade. I'm still saving for a tranny since I haven't had reverse for over a year now.

[Earth1]

I agree with V6 about the pitman arm. You'll be fine with the stock piece.

 

I think you may be missing someting with the CL/TR issue. The tie rods are weak, no doubt. If you come up with a decent soultion that's time/cost effective and durable I'll be right on your tail. I'd love to get some better TRs. That being said, the balljoint in the stock CL is a typical BJ and can only flex so far, then the TRs start to take the flex. Bent TRs are likely due to the stock CL design, along with weak TRs. The LP CL doesn't use BJs, they mount a round joint-like teflon lined ball bearing in their new end peices, and the BJ stud is replaced with a solid bolt and nut all the way through the new bearing and CL/ TR ends. The end swivel is greater with the LP setup. I think they may also reinforce the length of the CL with a weld bead, I could be wrong. I'm not trying to push their product on you, I just wanted to make sure you understand what the design is since I have some experience with it. If you have access to a decent machine shop, you could probably design your own CL, like a hybrid between Calmini and LP, along with those new TRs.

 

Something to consider, suppose you fab some kick az steering setup with indestructible TRs. What is going to replace the TR as the weakeset link to the system? I dunnow? With the TRs as the weak point, they are an easy part to get to and change in case of a mishap on the trail. Good luck man.

[BOKER420]

It will take some time searching for a worthy tie rod and as for the next weakest link I would hope nowhere. Whats the weak link on the LP or calmini systems? I'm just trying to save some money and also give me something to do. I do have a friend that has all the tools a machine shop does so I could ask and see what he could do for me.

 

If you could find out what part L&P uses for that ball swivel thing you would be able to do the changover yourself. I'm sure they don't fab it out of a solid piece of material. I'm sure its an off the shelf item. I'll keep you posted.

[AK9849cy]

The whole pathy front end is the problem... can't polish a turd! Inner CV boots will be next....

 

Wheeling in general is not a economical hobby.... That centerlink is about the best money a guy could spend on ifs.

 

Steering is about the last thing to experiment with.. I would never want to think "I coulda...." Smack into a nice head-on.

 

As far as the sheep... oops Jeep. It is somewhat nice to be different. Wheeling in Colorado there are so many folks that complement me on the fact I don't drive "just another jeep".

 

Now on a more positive note..... Stock Pathys really do well with a 3 inch body lift and 32x11.50's. Anything more that that is a place to throw a bunch of cash. The second the stock steering angles get changed it is all about fixing something.

 

If you are running an auto tranny make sure to clean your tranny cooler and maybe even install an extra aftermarket unit.

 

LOL, are you sick of me yet... just the truth. Let ya know whatcha gettin' into.

 

Happy wheeling Bro..

 

[Earth1]

Amen AK.

 

I'm sure Lee and Phil aren't willing to give up details on their design, but with some research you could come up with something that will work for a good CL. Honestly, it kinda sounds like a project to do just because you can. Nothing wrong with that, but by the time you invest the time of design & testing and cost of materials etc, you could be up rollin with some new Calmini or LP steering and fixing your broken tie rods on the trail with the rest of us.

 

The weak link on those systems are probably still the TRs. CVs would make sense as the next, and that isn't too good. If a bent TR will reduce the likelyhood of a broken CV or ripped boot, maybe it's better that way. I've had a basic suspension lift with Calmini UCAs for almost 2 years now and luckily no CV problems. I'm sure it will happen sometime though. Let us know how your turd polishes up.

[AK9849cy]

Lee Machines the bearing in house.....

[88pathoffroad]

You guys are completely missing the problem with the steering system.

 

It's not the tie rods, it's the centerlink.

 

When the joints on the CL get sloppy, it allows the CL to twist torsionally and that allows the tie rods to bend and/or wallow out the joints on them. The reason L&P makes a CL and NOT tie rods is just that...fix the CL twist problem and the tie rods work just fine.

 

BTW, they machine a new bearing housing, cut out the old joints on the stock CL, weld in the housing, re-hone it to size spec, then press in TWO spherical bearings per side. They provide grade 8 bolts and hardware with a predrilled hole for a cotter pin for safety. It's NOT a cheap process, even if you do it yourself.

 

L&P is the ONLY company that offers an easy-to-install fix to the steering problem almost every Pathfinder owner faces. If it were that easy, everyone would have done it already, get me? L&P also offers an awesome warranty on their CL, five years. A stock CL won't last one year on the trail. For me, not even one trip.

 

ALL systems include the modified L&P Centerlink.  Completely redesigned from the stock CL. Eliminates the bent tie rods and toed-in tire look on your Nissan Truck! Manufactured from OEM centerlinks using 4 Teflon-lined hardened-steel ball-end bearings and specially machined bearing housings. The new centerlink ends can withstand in excess of 50,000 Lbs of force. Includes all hardware (5/8" grade-8.... massive compared to OEM bolt size). Retains the use of the OEM tie rod ends and idler/pitman arms for extremely easy installation.  Available for ANY Nissan 1987-1995 Pathfinder or Hardbody, ALL Xterra's and Frontier's with Centerlinks. We offer a 5 YEAR GUARANTEE on ALL our Centerlinks!! International orders welcome! Contact us for shipping charges.

 

http://www.lpperformance.com/

 

By the way, Stage 1 is $290 INCLUDING shipping. Go take a look and read the info before talking sh!t, eh?

[AK9849cy]

Thanks 88, I was tired of thinking... LOL

[BOKER420]

Well If you were refering to me talking sh*t I guess if saying their centerlink is 300+ and not 290 is talking sh*t then I guess I was.

 

I wasn't trying to start a big quarrel here. I just wanted some feedback on if this could really work. So since the centerlink is the weak spot then Why replace the idler and pitman arms. Would just buying the L&P centerlink fix my problem? If thats the case then it would be way less hassle spending a few hundred extra dollars then trying to fab up my own.

 

I'm also thinking of going down to 32's next time I need tires also something less then 12.5 wide. That should be better on my steering and my gas mileage.

 

One more thing. Does this L&P steering upgrade stiffen the steering enough where you don't have to turn the steering wheel a 1/4 turn before the tires move or do I have some other problem.

[BOKER420]

Well I did a bit of searching and found some teflon lined bearings that will work. It would be about 135.00 shipped for the 4 bearings for the centerlink. So if I did the work myself I'd only be saving 130.00 bucks from buying the L&P one. Which isn't a bad deal.

 

I know this has been asked probably a thousand times but like someone suggested earlier about once a pathy gets a suspension lift the steering starts to go bad.

 

Why don't they make a drop pitman/idler arm for pathy's. That would put the steering back level wheel to wheel with no arc. Just recalling from memory but I think there is enough room to drop the steering down a bit. So why don't they make one?

[88pathoffroad]

There's no room. Take a look underneath and see for yourself.

[AK9849cy]

You still have to machine/fabricate a bearing housing to the correct inner diameter to hold the bearing in place... Hmm I wonder what the local machine shop charges for that?

Edited April 17, 2006 by AK9849cy

[BOKER420]

Just checked my steering yep no room for a drop arm.

 

The bearings i found come with a housing. It's the housing then the teflon liner then the bearing. There not cheap though. There 36.99 for the bigger ones for where you mount the pitman/idler arms and 31.99 for where the tie rods go. I guess as little as I could save doing it myself I'd be better off getting the L&P one with the 5 year guarantee.

[Dowser]

I just love finding these old threads while doing research.

 

Since you haven't been active since 2007 Boxer I feel rather confident that I can make sarcastic remarks without retaliation. (If marriage taught me anything it's pick the battles you can win. )

 

Basically it took 3 pages and a handfull of Guru's to convince this guy that a HooHaa's Centerlink is worth buying rather then doing a SAS. The part I particularily like is how much he thinks its a rip off for the part, (regardless of everyone telling him that it's a decent price) only to find out that he wouldn't be saving a hell of a lot of cash doing it himself once you consider how much the individual parts, and time factor.

 

At any rate, Just bumping this one because it was a very good informative thread that a lot of newer members could get a lot of information from and worth bump... if for no other reason then to Drool over AK's Beautiful Flex shot that satisfied my urge to continue my searching for more SAS information. Thanks Ryan for such inspirational photo's.........

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now do MINE Dammit!!!