Suspension overhaul

[KILLVOX]

Ok. Im going to take a few days off from work and replace..

 

tie rod ends

 

compresion rod bushings

 

front inner and possibly outer bearings

 

Calimini UCAs -bounce-

 

crank torsion bars

 

JGC coils

 

Calimini shocks

 

Now, i know how to do all the work im just wondering if there is a certain order i should be doing this. Any help would be a great help. :cool2:

[Filthy Luker]

Depending on shape of current ones I'd replace the t-bar adjusting bolts and nuts. Will make life much easier to be cranking down on new threads.

 

You didn't mention balljoints, in what shape are your current ones? If you have everything apart might as well do those.

 

Also if yer gonna lift a WD21 start looking for a proper steering system.

[KILLVOX]

Thanks for the info Filthy. The ball joints come with the calinini UCAs. Is there a steering system that you recommend?

[mws]

Lots of posts on steering...

 

Condensed summary:

L&P and Calmini are the two most consistently recommended, each with their + and -.

[Filthy Luker]

Then get the lower BJs and do those as well. They're harder to replace than the upper ones.

 

There are two steering systems available, Calmini and L&P.

 

Calmini is more expensive but more overbuilt and complete. They have chronic issues with their idler arm bearings but that's something that can be easily fixed. They also seem to have issues with stuff being constantly on backorder so if you're not in a rush that's good.

 

L&P uses more stock components so it is easier to get replacement parts. It's also cheaper and they have much better customer service. Also they are easier to get a hold of as they're on this board.

[wheel366]

From what I understand, NAPA makes some pretty hard core tierods and ball joints. I was thinking about getting their lower ball joints for my truck.

[TrailChaser]

Here's my take on the steering systems.

Calmini has a really great setup. It's just too expensive.

For half the price you can go with the TK1 mod(L&P's setup) that I promise you WILL NOT break. I have a friend who makes his own for $200 a CL(PM me on details he's just 1 guy doing it as a favor for friends so I can't post his info) He has a WD21 running 35's and the guy is crazy on the rocks with that truck. Oh and he's locked in the front which puts more stress on the steering. He broke two MM hubs the last time I wheeled with him and never bent a tierod.

I don't know if 88 is still selling the IA braces, but if not they're only $40 from L&P. You should really get one.

 

I went for quite a while not really knowing what exactly the upgraded CL was really all about so I thought I'd inform everyone of how it works the way I understand it... Please pipe in and correct me if I'm wrong about any of the following. I'm all about learning more and correct info.

 

Here it is:

The point in replacing the stock centerlink with a modded one is that the stock CL has ball joints connecting it to the idler arm and pitman arm. This is a bad thing for a couple of reasons. First it moves in wierd ways when you hit bumps at speed which makes you wonder all of the road.(that not a big deal) The main reason it's a bad design is that when you're 4wheelin and your front suspension is articulating all over the place the forces, or contact with other metal parts bends the tierods because the centerlink can move so freely.

With the TK1 CL the stock ends that connect to the IA and PA are cut off and replaced with 5/8" spherical bearings at each end. That eliminates the movement between the IA - PA and CL. That's why when you get the TK1 modded CL you have to use a 5/8" drill bit and drill out your idler arm and pitman arm to make room for the big arse bolt that replaces the OE ball joints.(make sure you drill a strait hole). So now the TRE's are the only parts that can move when you are driving over bumps and not turning the steering wheel.

I hope that helps someone who didn't really understand the concept.

 

I always thought it had something to do with hitting a rock or ledge with just one tire and it ripping apart from the centerlink.(NOOB)