dmag23 Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Not sure if this upload will work with a PowerPoint slide, but if it does, here's a diagram of the stock dimensions from my '87 Pathfinder Center Link. Another thing that looks out of place with your pic's (showing wheels turned full left and full right) is that the inner wheel's camber appears off in both cases. It looks like the top edge of the inner wheel is leening inward under full turn. That is, on full left turn, the top edge of the Driver's wheel looks like it leans in, and on full right turn, the top edge of the Passenger's wheel looks like it leans in The photo of your Pitman Arm pic shows that you have aftermarket Upper Control Arms. But I don't see any spacers behind the UCA pivot shaft. When the wheels are straight, do the wheels lean in? If you have a bubble level, place it vertically against the outside edge of the tire from bottom center to top center. Remember that the tire bulges more at the bottom from the weight of the vehicle. With that in mind, does it show near level, taking into consideration that the tire bulges out more below the rim than above? If the camber is way off then it will throw things off under full turn. Another thing to take into consideration is the steering knuckle adjustment. Each wheel has a stop adjustment for full left and full right turn. I think that was commented on in a previous reply. You can make slight adjustments there to limit the inner wheel's turning angle as opposed to the outer wheel's turning angle. Just remember that when one wheel hits its stop under full turn (full left and full right), the opposing wheel should have hit its stop also. If camber isn't a problem then I'd go back to looking at the center link to see if it is centered correctly between the frame rails when the wheels are straight. jj big shoe, let me know if the PowerPoint diagram doesn't show up. I can email it to you directly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted May 3, 2007 Author Share Posted May 3, 2007 (edited) Also, sometimes when you are turning, instead of it straightning out after you let go of the week, it stays turned.It'll be tight for a while until the bearings in the CL get spun and loosened up a bit, maybe 200-300 miles? I think I remember something about it in the install directions. Check the L&P site, it might still be on there. Outstanding diagram, dmag! Thanks, I'll grab a tape and check it out as soon as I get a free minute. The camber is good, the wheels aren't leaning in or out. No need for spacers behind the UCA spindle. I haven't adjusted the turn stops, but they haven't been moved since the CL swap and this wasn't a problem before. Edited May 3, 2007 by jj big shoe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheel366 Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Been on for almost 4 thousand miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 I was going to ask, JJ...how high is your front end cranked? What other parts are being used? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheel366 Posted May 5, 2007 Share Posted May 5, 2007 Well, I;ve about had it with this L&P steering kit. It started squeeking again today. I had it oiled when it was installed and once again about 1 1/2 months ago. Now it's doing it again. Anybody interested in purchasing a L&P stage 3 kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted May 5, 2007 Share Posted May 5, 2007 Mine hasn't made one noise a-tall. What exactly is squeaking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheel366 Posted May 5, 2007 Share Posted May 5, 2007 I think it is the idler arm. I have to go back under and look. Man, people look at me funny when I am turning the steering wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted May 5, 2007 Share Posted May 5, 2007 Mine has a grease fitting. I just grease it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted May 6, 2007 Author Share Posted May 6, 2007 I was going to ask, JJ...how high is your front end cranked? What other parts are being used? Abut 2"-2.5" or so. I left about 1/2" between stock bumpstops and the Superlift UCA's (I didn't grind the stop on the UCA's down, either). L&P IA bracket and CL and Pro Comp shocks and SS w/ a Rancho mounting kit. Everything else steering related is OEM, or at least originally on the truck when I bought it four years or so ago. I didn't even need an alignment when I installed the new UCA's. I just cranked the t-bars up until the camber was right. It drove straight and turned correctly with no excessive tire wear so I left it alone. This wasn't an issue until I installed the L&P CL. The same setup w/ a stock CL worked fine. Whatever...I'll get to it some day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheel366 Posted May 7, 2007 Share Posted May 7, 2007 Well, I took a look at mine and the only place to grease it up is on top. There is some space between the idler arm and brace. I'm gonna take some pics. It looks like my tie rods are at a strange angle. I'm also gonna take it to a shop in NJ that does custom work and see what they can do or say about it. After that, I'm ordering the Calmini kit and will pray that it fixes the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheel366 Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 88, what do you use to grease your idler arm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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