Preventing the exhaust manifold stud issue ?

[prginocx]

Since my '95 pathy has low mileage (67k), and the minor leak at the r-side manifold is really mild (Barely putters when cold, shuts off when hot), I've been told you can get in there and tighten down the manifold on a regular basis. If you keep up on it, you'll never get to the broken stud stage.

 

Can this be done ? Work hot or cold ? PB blaster lube to get them loose or not ?

 

P.S. Which engine do I have ? How do I tell ?

[89_trailboss]

You will have A VG30E. thats the only motor 90-95 northamerican paths had. I would work hot, and spray PB or WD40 on em each night for about a week before even touching the studs. I would be worried that buy tightening the bolts, you may snap them. thats why I would work when there hot(eather jsut after shutoff, or heat em with a torch).

[Precise1]

You have the VG30E (3.0 liter v6). There is no real maintenance for the manifold studs. Fact of the matter is the factory ones are shait. Usually the ticking indicates a broken stud, and if you try to torque them, you are risking breaking one, or having it fail soon. I have the same slight tick only sometimes at start up. I plan to ignore it until I get headers.

All that can be done is replace them with the upgraded replacement units (300zx studs I believe) at $3+ a piece. I don't know the part # off hand, but could look it up for you. Also, theorhetically the dealerships will change them before 100k, but people have reported mixed results in getting this done. It's worth a try.

Otherwise, yes PB blaster, a torch, and maybe bolt extractors will be needed. If you have to extract broken studs, DO NOT use the left hand taperd spiral "ezy out" style, they are too weak and brittle, use the square style as manufactured by Proto.

 

B

[Casey.T]

You have less than 100k miles.... Nissan should replace all of your studs for you....