vidro Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 Things were a hit an a miss at first. I bought and tried about every different type of bolt extractor that exists, finally I was able to get a good enough bite on the back stud and 3 hours into the operation I got it out. I was PUMPED ready to go after number 2, now that I know the "drill" Ha-Ha. This one started much better, I pegged the middle of the stud... went through the sequence of drill sizes to get to the appropriate one for the extractor, inserted the extractor and gently started to turn the stud out YES she is turning than I heard a snap and the extractor is in my hand MINUS the tip. AAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!! I'm not a violent guy. My temper is such that I can get very pissed off at inanimate objects, this temper DOES NOT permeate over to inaction with my fellow man BUT my wife and kids know that when I get upset at such things it's best to be "out of site out of mind". My neighbors are aware of this also from past projects outside the garage It must have been lunch time when the Easy Out broke because I noticed all the families on the block started getting into their cars to go some where I thought to get something to eat. I didn't think I was yelling that loud to penetrate the walls of the garage but hind sight they could of heard my in Oklahoma. Any advice guys? I'm getting mentally worn out, not giving up just running into to many obstacles. The extractor that broke was a screw type it did not brake off flush so there is about a hair of it that sticks out further than the stud. Do I try and chisel out the Extractor? There is very little room to drill around it, I've tried. I can not drill into the extractor not with the bits I have, Damn so close but so far. I'll I need is one or two more turn and I think I can grab the threads 500 dollars to remove these things is still to much money but it's getting close to acceptable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 Pointy nose pliers my good man. If that doesn't work I'd try to super glue something to the end of the f*cker and hope for the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest thorsen Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 You're about to learn a very painful lesson. Stud extractors are made out of hardened steel. You'll blow through a handful of drill bits and not even put a dent in the extractor. I think it was Peter Egan who mused "stud extractors are made out of a material 500 times stronger than any drill bit known to man." The best thing you can do now is take a break. It'll be there this afternoon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 There is no way to get a grip on the stud? (not the extractor).. PB blast it...take a deep breat and as above needle nose pliers or something of similar thiness and hope for the best! I also had an extractor break off but there was just enough to get ahold of and carefully coax it out... good luck..patience is the key Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 Here is a link to some drills that will drill out a bolt extractor. Thats what you will probably have to do. http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH Definitely keep soaking the studs with penetrant. Have you tried using a torch on them ? Again, if you are using the left hand tapered spiral 'ezy-out' style, those are the weakest and most brittle. I do not recommend them for this job. You are just going to have to be patient and finess the studs out. I agree that paying $500 is rediculous. Take a break if you start to get mad, it wont help at all... Good luck, and post if you have other questions, etc. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted October 24, 2005 Author Share Posted October 24, 2005 YES! YES! YES! I got all them little peckers out!!!!! I used a pair of long nosed needle nose and was able, with a lot of force, to spin the extractor out of the center of the stud. Than I soaked the crap out of the thing, jamed a square "Easy Out" into it and SLOWLEY backed it out. A quick note: a broke a drill bit and can not find the tip I don't know what the odds are of it landing inside the exhaust port but I stuck a magnet inside each port and I put my fingers in ther and didn't feel any thing so I guess I'm o.k. Now to get the replacement studs and remount the exhaust system. Thanks for every thing guys Quick question; after how many miles should the timeing belt be changed? Next on the list Timing belt and water pump. Any thing I should be aware of going into these projects? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 Cool, good job ! Yeah, I'm a big fan of the square ones.... Odds are that the drill tip is not in your exhaust ports, don't worry. Timing belt on the 94-95's are every 105k. I highly recommend changing it on schedule, or if you have no idea when it was done last. Sorry, haven't done one yet so I'm not much help there. Talk to me in another 100k... : I hear the cam seals are a good thing to replace 'while you are there'. Search for it, there have abeen a few recent threads with good info... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgranch Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 I think this pathy is trying to kill you. I have one the same way. Right now I have 2 down in the driveway. Anyways- I have changed many T-belts. My suggetsionis that you just change it period. You have gone this far with the pathy and the tranny was an adventure the T-belt will be a walk in the park. As for the cam seals- sometimes I change them and sometimes I don't. While they are not expensive they are hard to get on correctly. If you push them on too far then you just have to destroy the seal to remove it. If they show signs of leakage them I always replace them. This is time to examine the water pump for replacement and the big item is the bypass hose. It is buried at the front of the engine. If this little hose lets loose you are done. Post what you are going to do. Oh I thought I heard something faint in the air around Cleveland on the 23rd. Was that you yelling? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted October 25, 2005 Share Posted October 25, 2005 Good to see you were able to remove the stud. The good old pointy nosed pliers do come in handy. Now that the topic has moved onto timing belts.... I get to thinking..... has anyone come up with, or made a conversion setup for a chain instead of a belt? I know that with some Izuzu models, here, you could remove the belt system and put a chain setup in. Just wondering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted October 25, 2005 Author Share Posted October 25, 2005 Your right I would LOVE to have a chain BUT before we get to far away from exhaust studs. I picked the supposed upgraded stud from the Dealer and they DO NOT go in as easy as the original studs, they look the same as the old ones. Trying both the new and old in the same hole the old one hand spins andbottoms out but the new one gets about 2 threads in than stops. When I unscrew the new ones it looks like the thread are being flattened out on the stud but the old one comes out of the same hole looking just fine. Is it possible they gave me the wrong studs or is the part of the upgrade stud? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted October 26, 2005 Author Share Posted October 26, 2005 Buttoned up the exhaust system last night and drove her to work this morning. I will drive it a couple more days before starting in on the T-Belt and water pump. Hope fully nothing else will happen during this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 26, 2005 Share Posted October 26, 2005 Sounds like the studs went in OK ?? Maybe the threads were just poorly rolled ? Don't worry, theres not much else that 'normally' goes wrong. You have done a fine job so far. So, how does she drive ?? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted October 26, 2005 Share Posted October 26, 2005 my guess (but not my hope) is that you'll get all these mods done and get torn up by a semi on your first test drive. Well, that'd be my luck anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted October 26, 2005 Share Posted October 26, 2005 Here is a link to some drills that will drill out a bolt extractor. Thats what you will probably have to do.http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH B No part at the end of the link B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted October 26, 2005 Author Share Posted October 26, 2005 "How does she drive?" I'm not use to any thing that stands over 9 inches off the grown so I'm not sure what I was expecting. For the money she drives fairly well and looks like it will get much better gas mileage than my 67 Cougar. The front end has some "wobbled" between 35 - 50 MPH, I'm figure the tires need balanced. The steering wheel has some slop side to side about a 1/2 inche once the slop is compensated for than the steering gets real sensitive. I can see that it could be real easy to over correct the steering and do a barrel roll down the highway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 27, 2005 Share Posted October 27, 2005 Lets just NOT roll her yet, eh ? It's feel a bit better once you get used to it... Lets not get into front end work yet. Sorry about the link, I didn't check it. Lets see if this one works... http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAG...68&PMT4TP=*LTIP B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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