vidro Posted September 28, 2005 Share Posted September 28, 2005 I know that replacing as many parts as possible while this trannie is out is the SMART thing, but I'm being nicked and dime to death. I went to pick up clutch parts yesterday these parts being the, clutch plate, clutch cover, throw-out bearing,pilot bearing, plus I was going to get the fly wheel resurfaced. Clutch plates = $35 Clutch cover = $63 throw out bearing = $24 pilot = $2 resurface $25 I held off buying these items till I could ask you guys if I really needed to change them out. If I had an abundance of funds this would be a no brainier but I'm running out of capitol so I have to pick and chose. All of the old parts look o.k. so it's not like I'm replacing a bad component it' more of preventive maintenance. I need to ask you Pros. If you had to pick, in order, which parts are best to change out now? vehicle has 220000 Highway miles. I guess the crystal ball question is, which parts are most likely to need replacing in the near future? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 28, 2005 Share Posted September 28, 2005 Thats a tough one... It's hard to make a judgement call without seeing the parts. Considering your monetary position, put it together with the old parts knowing that you'll have to pull the tranny again in a while (milage may vary). Consider it testing out your work. If you were to just replace some parts, I'd change the clutch disk and the TO bearing, but I suggest waiting until you can also replace the pressure plate at least. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted September 28, 2005 Author Share Posted September 28, 2005 Yea I keep thinking that, I'll see how it all holds together before I spend anymore money on her. The quirkiness about this is , "if it doesn't work than what?". I'm not going to throw it away and I'm not going to give it away. That fact is this vehicle will get fixed, so I guess the best thing I can so I do not have to visit the tranny area of the vehicle any time soon is to go with out lunch for a week or 2 and just change it all out while it's easy to get to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted September 28, 2005 Share Posted September 28, 2005 $2 for the Pilot bearing imo would be good also. I did everything on a 1984 RX7 except the $2 pilot bearing, 3 weeks later I was back in there replacing the Pilot....... Ganted it only took 2 hours this time, to get to it and put it all back together AGAIN. But it was a major PITA for a $2 part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 28, 2005 Share Posted September 28, 2005 I understand vidro... I have the same 'do it all right once' mentality, BUT when I did my clutch 1 year 6k miles ago, I didn't consider the rear main seal (yeah, not bright). It wasn't/isn't leaking, but might bite me in the ass down the road.... I measured the pilot bearing, and the ID was the same as the new one (within .001") so I left it in. I cant believe it would compress more than a few thou being installed so I didn't see the point. I was also running out of time in a borrowed garage. The good thing is if you just use old parts and have to go back in a year or 3 from now, it'll be a snap... If you decide to replace things, I can send you the pilot bushing and clutch alignment tool if that helps any... More of a gesture I guess. Let me know if you want them. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted September 29, 2005 Author Share Posted September 29, 2005 (edited) Pecise1, I do appreciate the offer on the pilot and the alignment tool. Believe it or not those were the first 2 items I picked up after the bearing kit. I talked my self into replacing everything that I could while everything was still opened up. I have to look at history and my project, in the past when I have had one of these dilemmas 50 percent of the time if I didn't replace "what ever" with new I was back at it with in a year. I'm not a plumber but in my plumbing escapades there have been many good examples of this, one of those being if you replace a leaky seal on the cold side than replace the seal on the hot side, regardless. All parts should be in by this afternoon so if everything goes as planned (which has not happened in a while) I should have this baby up and running by the end of the weekend. Next mechanical repair will be the water pump and timing chain. When I first heard the engine about 3 months ago there was a wobble sound from a pulley. The lady that sold me the vehicle mentioned that the water pump had never been changed and the Tbelt was changed a 110,000 so I figure it's time to change both Question on the Tbelt. Pricing parts again... the belt will go for between 30 to 85 bucks, one of those, I think has the tentioner in it. Is that something that wears out enough to change it every 150,000 miles? Edited September 29, 2005 by vidro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 29, 2005 Share Posted September 29, 2005 I don't know about the tensioner... My pathy has 115k on it and the T-belt had just been changed. I've heard that some T-belts come with alignment marks which are quite helpful. I believe people recommend replacing the cam seals and thermostat while you are there also. Here we go again, eh ? Smart move on doing the clutch... Is the flywheel scored ?? You can save time and $ right there if not, just give it a light scuffing with sandpaper. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted September 29, 2005 Author Share Posted September 29, 2005 Let me ask you on the fly wheel issue. It will cost $25 to get it resurfaced, the only reason I can see for getting it resurfaced is because it is glazy. Is resurfacing something that should be done since I'm getting all new parts? Or will knocking the glaze off with the flywheel sandpaper be good enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 29, 2005 Share Posted September 29, 2005 Well, 3 issues with flywheels are... 1) Cracking. Generally rare, but can be an issue. Usually caused by crappy metal, and/or excessive heat either from poor clutch use or slippage (due to glazing or weak pressure plate). Thermal differential in the fly wheel can cause surface cracks which will only grow with time and/or abuse. These flywheels are usually not reconditioned for sale or accepted as cores. Use something like prussian blue; wipe it over the surface, then wipe off. Any real cracks should show. 2) Scoring. Main cause is the clutch plate being worn far enough for the rivets to contact the flywheel. The longer it happens the deeper scoring. This can usually be repaired by resurfacing (just face turning) the fly wheel. Just like brake rotors and drums, if it is scored, the new friction pad will seat to it quickly, but reduce effective life. Considering the work involed to pull these trannys, if the flywheel is noticably scored, it needs resurfacing or replacing. 3) Glazing. Happens over time regardless, but excessive glazing is caused by significant friction pad slippage, either from poor clutch use or weak pressure plate. It causes poor clutch engaging causing poor feel or chatter as it sticks/releases. Can be fixed by sanding with fine grit (320 or finer) sand paper, and or cross sanding after with rough grit sand paper. This will help seat the new friction pad. Ok, sorry for the over kill, but i just tried to make it a inclusive description that some may learn from. I'd say that if you have no real scoring and just glazing, sand it down with fine SP, then cross hatch it with rough SP. That should be just fine. Make sure to clean the FW well with brake cleaner though !! When I replaced my clutch system, I noticed the TOB was barking a lot. Then I tested the clutch by shifting hard at 4500rpm on an uphill freeway on ramp. Sure enough, 3rd and 4th had definite slip so I ordered OEM clutch parts. They were original and this was 10 years and 110k miles later. The TOB was wasted !!! Not siezed, but so rough I was amazed. The pressure plate was weak enough that only the outer 1/2 of the clutch plate was fully contacting the fly wheel and the fingers contacting the TOB had a groove worn in them. This made the clutch wear unevenly and faster. It was worn down so the outermost rivets were just contacting the fly wheel. The flywheel was some what glazed, and had a .004" score from the rivets. Machine shops wanted $50 to resurface and I was able to buy a reconditioned fly wheel with a new ring gear for $65 (plus core) at NAPA, so that was a no brainer in my book. I replaced everything, including the TOB carrier and retaining clip for about $200. The TOB still barks the first few shifts, I have NO idea why !! Sorry for the ramble vidro, does that answer your question ? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted September 30, 2005 Author Share Posted September 30, 2005 (edited) That was good. I'm such an analytical fellow I need it explained to me like that . I went to get the fly wheel resurfaced but they could not get the pins out of the wheel so I will use the sand paper technique Edited September 30, 2005 by vidro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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