vidro Posted September 14, 2005 Share Posted September 14, 2005 I'm putting this tranny beast back together, I have one question to those that know trannys and even to those that want to give their educated opinion. I have the main shaft and counter gear shaft stabbed in to the center plate, they are as sucked upped to the plate as I can get them. Now the scenario and questions The main shaft gear is just barely touching the sub-gear when it is seat in the counter gear. The problem, the sub-gear has about 3 to 4 extra teeth than the counter gear so after about 2 revolutions the main shaft gear starts to get pushed out of the counter gear by the sub-gear. At this point of the assembly both shafts are just being supported by the middle plate bearings so I'm not sure if this action of the gears is o.k. The main shaft gear is touching the sub-gear by about a 32th of an inch Everything that came out of this beast is going back in, the only change would be bearing. Should I continue putting this thing back together and assume it will all line up when it's back in the case or is what I have described a problem I should take care of at the stage it's now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted September 14, 2005 Share Posted September 14, 2005 (edited) Are you doing this without a manual? I'd really suugest getting one that has the clearances, tolerances, ect. It would be a shame to spend all that time and effort then have a whiny trans or take out a gear or two. There is a special tool for installing the mainshaft and countershaft. It pulls the mainshaft in to the plate. Edited September 14, 2005 by Animal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted September 14, 2005 Author Share Posted September 14, 2005 Yes, I have the manual and I did notice that special tool but doesn't a Big A@# hammer accomplished the same thing. This may be naive of me but it looks like the main shaft thrust washer is flush against the middle plate as is the over drive thrust bearing. There is about a 16th of an inch between the plate and the 1st main gear. and no room from the counter gear thrust bearing to the plate. I also noticed that the middle counter gear is almost touching the main shaft 3rd main gear next to the syncro. I have looked at the color patterns on the gear teeth and every thing seems to match except for the 3rd main gear and it's adjacent counter gear but I can't see how that can happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted September 14, 2005 Author Share Posted September 14, 2005 Another thing what in the Heck is that sub-gear for any way? It's just a thing piece of metal with teeath on it that looks like some thing that fell off an old push type sidewalk trimmer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted September 14, 2005 Author Share Posted September 14, 2005 Ah ha!! Sub-gear is basically a noise suppressor. With this Knowledge, I now have more confidance that things are going together the way they are suppose to. It makes sence that the main shaft gear would be touching the sub-gear. At higher RPM's and with everything in it's case I bet it will work just fine. (fingers crossed) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted September 14, 2005 Share Posted September 14, 2005 If I believed in luck and wishing, I'd wish you the best of luck. It's good that you aren't impatient or in too much of a hurry that you are just "slapping it back together" - that usually is when mistakes are made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted September 15, 2005 Author Share Posted September 15, 2005 Stabbed the gut's into the case last night. Everything seems to be spinning and matching up fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted September 17, 2005 Share Posted September 17, 2005 Good work man. I'm thinking of rebuilding my tranny. Any other tricks or unexpected issues to share? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted September 18, 2005 Share Posted September 18, 2005 Ok trannies do not need a BFH at all. If it's not comming apart, or going toegther, something is wrong. If there's a small gap between the housing and the adpater plate, try suckin it in with the bolts, tighting each a bit at a time. See my post on your other thread for recomendations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted September 20, 2005 Author Share Posted September 20, 2005 Earth1. My first problem was the pins not that there is anything hard here except for the way the manual said "pin", it's actually "pins", it is a pin within a pin, still no big thing just needed a bigger punch. The only other thing was pullers. You will require an odd selection of puller, these you can get at any hardware or automotive store. When it comes to assembly, there is a specialty tool that you may need it's kind of a reveres puller, I guess call it a pusher Ha-Ha. It helps in getting the main shaft pushed up through the center plate. I'm not sure why but I found I didn't need to use one or I just did think I needed to use one, my shaft bottomed out on the plate with just a good shove. Directions of parts is another big thing make sure you note how they came off the manual is pretty good in indicating direction of parts during assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted September 20, 2005 Share Posted September 20, 2005 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted September 22, 2005 Author Share Posted September 22, 2005 I should also add, watch out where you buy your rebuild kits and make D&*n sure they warrantee them to come with ALL the bearings and seals. I purchased a bearing kit from Transmission Exchange by description was to have ALL bearings and seals. I purchased it for a two wheel drive and they verified this, the invoice show for a 2 wheel drive. One of the differences in the 2 and 4 wheel drive is the "rear main bearing", the one for the 4 wheel drive came in the kit but the bearing I needed for the 2 wheel drive "rear main bearing" was not a part of the kit. They told me they had it and could sell it to me, at which time I became a little less tactful than normal. and supposedly they are sending (with out charge) this was 5 days ago I have not seen it yet. This is coming off the heals that the rear seal is not a part of the kit either, which they sold me. To me if it says ALL bearing (excluding needed bearings) and ALL seals than I would expect ALL of both, with no special orders. I will give them the benefit of the doubt and say they must work with lots of transmissions and they may buy the kits from suppliers. My kit was open when I received it and parts floating lose in the box, this bent up the front seal (they replace the front with no problems). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted September 22, 2005 Author Share Posted September 22, 2005 I should add that there was nothing wrong with the rear main bearing and the trannie that I disassembled, I figure while it's apart I should change all of the bearings. I also felt there was a principal here and there was deceptiveness in the description of the content of the kit and I want what I paid for. If I don't get the bearing today I'm going to put the old one back in so I can get this thing back running. I have plans for this pathy and I'm tired of waiting on others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted September 23, 2005 Author Share Posted September 23, 2005 HEE HAW, Trannie put back together (not in vehicle yet) things look good at this point, trying to get things button-up before Ms. Rita comes threw and soaks us. Got the last bearing in last night, "rear shaft bearing", the front end of the trannie was already stabbed in housing... just been waiting on this bearing to finish putting it ALL back together. Someone on one of the post mentioned something about trannie lubricant, I'm asking opinion what is the best manual trannie fluid to put in this beast? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 23, 2005 Share Posted September 23, 2005 The answer is 5 quarts GL-4 and ONLY GL-4 !!!! I added about a pint of lucas oil stabliser for good luck... Here is the manual tranny TSB http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2621 Congrats on getting it all back together, I'm sure it will work fine !! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted September 23, 2005 Author Share Posted September 23, 2005 (edited) Some one help me here, please. I figured while I have this thing out I would go ahead and change out the rear main oil seal. Looking at the manual it states the following on replacing the oil seal, I'll just put the parts that I'm having a problem with. "Remove rear oil seal retainer" "Remove seal from retainer" We may just be mixing words but on American cars I don't ever remember anything being called an "oil seal retainer", it's usually just a seal that you knock out and knock the new one in. I already bought the seal and it doesn't look like it's anything special but I'm concerned and puzzled at the term "oil retainer" should I be? Per the weather guys, I've got about 24 hours before the potential of serious rain hits, I had heard the possibility of 10 to 30 inches. If they're right the stream that's in front of my house will definitely break banks. This Pathy is the highest vehicle I've got. Edited September 23, 2005 by vidro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted September 23, 2005 Author Share Posted September 23, 2005 Like a moron I didn't pay attention to how the dust cover came off the throw bearing forks. Is the majority of that boot fit inside the bell housing or to the out side of the bell housing case? To be honest, anyway I put it on looks wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 23, 2005 Share Posted September 23, 2005 Yes, there is an oil seal retainer. The oil seal is pressed into that. I think the main reason for this design is that this way it is easily worked on on a bench or put in a press, etc. Not under the truck with a hammer and swearing... :furious: Going outside to look at the dust cover right now... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted September 23, 2005 Author Share Posted September 23, 2005 Well I wonder if it is the right move to try and knock the thing out while I'm underneith. What do you think? I'll be using a hammer and big screw driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 23, 2005 Share Posted September 23, 2005 The majority of the boot goes to the inside of the bellhousing.... The oil seal retainer has like 6 bolts on it... just unbolt it, remove the oil seal from it, press in the new one and bolt the assembly back on... Put the hammer down !! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted September 23, 2005 Author Share Posted September 23, 2005 Thanks for the help, I see what's going on now. It's always good to have some one from the outside looking in, I'm being blinded by anxiousness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 23, 2005 Share Posted September 23, 2005 Cool, good luck... Glad I could help. Don't rush, just git er done !! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted September 24, 2005 Author Share Posted September 24, 2005 Let me add on tranmission Exchange, they did send the correct bearing so they did stand by the product that they were selling. I was just a little perplex about the comment that the bearing kit did not come with the rear bearing or the rear seal. I had to buy the rear seal but they did send me the other bearing with out charging me, i'll have to wait for the creadit card bill to confirm this. So would I use them again yes, but tnext time I would have them read me the parts in the kit before making the final order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted September 26, 2005 Author Share Posted September 26, 2005 On replacing the real seal. I definitely needed to change this. I went into the project extremely ambitious by the time I got done with getting the new seal back in 3 hours later, I didn't want to do another thing with the Pathy after that. (Severity of Rain out of forecast so not as anxious). Unexpected issues. Starter bracket needs to come off, ALL oil pan bolts need to be loosen to about the last thread, another bracket on the left side of the block needs to come off. Than the removal of a oil retainer that has been in the same place for 10 years and 200,000 miles. I think I did figure something out, while I was pricing the oil seal there was an extreme price difference on the Nation brand as to others. National wanted $34 the other between $4 to $8, I was puzzled, I could be WAY wrong on this but after trying to beat that dang seal out of the retainer, I'm wondering if National has the seal and retainer in their kit. Finally got it all put back together using a LOT of sealant. My procrastination now is the clutch, at first I was gung-ho to replace this than I started thinking maybe I should wait to see if the tranny rebuild worked. That is just plain pessimism if it doesn't work what am I going to do throw away the vehicle CRAP. There wasn't a clutch problem to begin with but the pressure plate rivets are starting to get close to the pad. I'm still kicking it around to replace the clutch or wait to see if it all works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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