Fuel pressure test (crank no start)

[OregonCoastie]

Hey guys I’m new to this form and am having trouble finding the answers I’m looking for elsewhere. 
 

recently I bought a 2000 pathfinder with a broken timing belt. I replaced the timing belt and all of the other belts. Found out the fuel pump was also bad (wasn’t hearing it prime) replaced too. It’s still not wanting to start. It starts for a solid second then dies out, and it will stay running for about 10 seconds with starting fluid. Only code I have is po325 knock sensor, but that shouldn’t keep it from starting right?

I was advised to check fuel pressure but i can’t seem to find a shrader valve to connect to, and if there isn’t one I’m not sure where I would want to tap in.

 

was hoping someone on here would be able to help me find where to test pressure or even have any ideas on what I should do next to solve crank no start.

 

[Slartibartfast]

Sadly Nissan did not put a Shrader valve on the rail. The service manual says to plumb a pressure gauge in between the filter and the rail. You want around 34 psi with the engine idling and the vacuum line to the regulator hooked up, and around 43 with the vac line off. (If there's fuel in that vacuum line, then the regulator's toast.)

 

You'll spray fuel from hell to breakfast if you open the lines while they're pressurized. The manual says to pull the fuel pump fuse, start the engine, wait for it to die, and then crank it a few more times to be sure. This may be difficult given how yours doesn't really run. Worst case, let it sit overnight to hopefully bleed the pressure down, and then separate the lines with a rag wrapped around the bit you're separating in case it's still pressurized.

 

Both procedures and specs are on EC-37 of the 2000 service manual, free download from Nicoclub.

 

I'm guessing the truck sat for a bit after the belt failed, given the dead fuel pump. How bad did the old fuel smell? Hopefully it hasn't gummed something else up. I would be surprised if the fuel filter was bad enough to cause a no-start, but I would still throw one of those at it while I was in there.

 

Pull a spark plug after it runs/dies. If it's wet, then you know it's getting fuel.

 

If it's getting fuel, my next guess is timing. Did you mess with the distributor? Do you know that the last guy didn't? I would try adjusting the timing around and see if that changed anything. (If you don't think it's been messed with, mark it first so you can put it back where it was if you don't get anywhere.) If the distributor has been out, it could also be a tooth off.

 

I doubt the knock sensor code is related.