Slartibartfast Posted April 6, 2024 Share Posted April 6, 2024 I'll bet you could just push the clutch pedal down a little (stick against the seat, adjustable tripod, something like that) so the master can't drain, then take it apart and separate the washer from the banjo on the bench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peejay Posted April 6, 2024 Author Share Posted April 6, 2024 (edited) On 4/5/2024 at 11:59 PM, Slartibartfast said: I'll bet you could just push the clutch pedal down a little (stick against the seat, adjustable tripod, something like that) so the master can't drain, then take it apart and separate the washer from the banjo on the bench. You know, hindsight is telling me that I should've started with/suspected the "operating cylinder" all along, in which case I woulda had to drain the old fluid anyway! So guess I'll be draining the new fluid, the pain point is trying to quickly reattach the hydraulic line without crossthreading it! (Edit) I need to take a course in Physics. Just took the banjo bolt out, no more/"new" fluid came out! Moving on to removing the crush washer...(gonna put it in the freezer for a few while I contemplate my life choices!) Edited April 7, 2024 by peejay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peejay Posted April 13, 2024 Author Share Posted April 13, 2024 Update... FINALLY got the clutch bled ("enough"). A combination of the MityVac, speed bleeder, and old school "two man" method got it done. Ultimately, I think the damper was the culprit, because after "bench bleeding" the master (on-vehicle, using the mityvac), then attempting to use the speed bleeder on the operating cylinder, no fluid ever came out (in hindsight, maybe I didn't pump the pedal enough times, but I felt like I did). After putting the mityvac on the damper, there were MILLIONS of bubbles coming through that section of tubing. I repeated the mityvac method a few times, think I even did the "two man" method with just me a few times, then moved back to the release cylinder/speed bleeder, which produced no fluid at first, then say around 10-15 pumps the pedal got firmer, firmer, then WEAK as I noticed I had emptied the reservoir! At that point I just topped off the master, cracked open the speed bleeder and kept pumping until it eventually built up pressure again, THEN I two-man bled the damper again. Hope to attempt to crank in the next few days and I may eventually do the damper bypass! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted April 14, 2024 Share Posted April 14, 2024 I've found that my mityvac pulls air in around the bleeder threads. I'm never sure where the bubbles are coming from. I hate bleeding brakes. Sounds like you're on the right track, though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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