T.english86 Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 Hi all, new member to the forum, just purchased a 2000 pathfinder SE. Got it for a steal because the rear trailing arm bushings were gone and it had the classic death wobble, so the guys wife made him sell it. Anyways, I replaced them and it corrected the wobble, but I'm still getting some pretty concerning lurches at slow speeds when in low gears, as well as vibration at highway speeds, but it goes away at around 75+ mph. My transmission mount looks pretty ugly so I'm gonna replace that, pretty sure it's a simple re&re, but I'm not so sure of the motor mounts. Does anyone have any insight on how they can be done in the simplest way possible? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vg33deguy Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 Check your rack bushings. Mine did the same. I got my 97 for a steal and the rear arm bushings needed replaced and my rack wash shifting due to shot bushings. Sent from my LG-H631 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vg33deguy Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 I almost replaced a motor mount. Not saying your case isnt a motor mount but i was getting some nasty lurches and it turned out to be rack bushings. Sent from my LG-H631 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T.english86 Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 How would you diagnose/repair the steering rack bushings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vg33deguy Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 . If the rack is loose at all their shot. Theirs 2. 1 on each side of the rack. Mine where beyond deatroyed cracked and missing big chuncks. Heres a pick under the front ive got a leaky hose that im replacing soon so the racks a bit wet. Sent from my LG-H631 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vg33deguy Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 Those big bolts on each side below the rack hold the bushings and rack in place. These are my new ones. Sent from my LG-H631 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T.english86 Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 Great pic! Thanks. Is it just a matter of removing and replacing? It doesn't look like much stands in the way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vg33deguy Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 Not really. The biggest thing is making sure its back in the same spot. It was pretty easy i dont know if the way we did it is suggested. But we just loosed it and propped it up. Cleaned the surface and dropped the new ones in. I was nervous but i went and got a laser alighnment right after and it turned out fine. It was a first for me. Lol Sent from my LG-H631 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T.english86 Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 Well I replaced the rack bushings and the cross member mount. Seems to have smoothed out some, but I'm still getting that clunk at low speeds when I get on/take off the throttle in gear. Does this mean motor mounts for sure? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Yes, likely. My buddy's truck was doing that...right around 2nd gear, it'd give a little pulse as if something was settling down. His driver's side motor mount had split in half. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T.english86 Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 I've heard you have to remove the front diff to access the mounts. Is this the case or is there an easier way both drive r & passenger sides can be done? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 Well...to be frank, the job sucks. Nothing makes it easy. The diff does have to be removed. Although you can reach the lower mount nuts with a ratchet over the diff and axle tube, the mounts need to be removed from the bottom of the vehicle and space is tight. Removing the diff isn't terrible, though...probably the easy thing about this job, if there is one. The real problem is that you need to separate the engine from the subframe enough so that the mount's upper and lower studs clear their mounting surfaces. This requires either lifting the engine off the subframe, or keeping the engine stationary and lowering the subframe. I had the "luxury" of dropping the subframe to change my buddy's mount, since we were installing his SFD (that's actually how we discovered it was busted). Dropping the subframe is complex. The best way to change the mounts is by lifting the engine up a little, maybe 1" or so, being mindful of everything that has to move with the engine (hoses, wires, exhaust, transmission, etc.). An engine hoist accomplishes this best, but a transmission jack could work if placed far enough forward. I've lifted and supported the engine with a floor jack...it's not fun, but doable. You'll need access from the engine bay to loosen the upper nut on the mounts. Driver's side isn't terrible after removing the intake stuff. The passenger side is tougher...there's not much that can be removed, it's a tight fit, and the exhaust manifold is right on top. If you don't plan to change the passenger mount, then you could just loosen it's lower nuts for lifting and leave the top secured...but if you've come this far, may as well change it out. That all said, you may want to crawl around under the mounts and inspect things as best you can before diving into this. I've seen others also make videos of their engine during start up and revs to see if how much it lifts to confirm if the mount my be bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T.english86 Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 Thanks hawairish for taking the time to explain things. The job sounds tolerable, provided you take the proper steps. I do have access to an engine hoist/cherry picker, so that should make things a little easier. I'll tackle this job on my next days off and post my results. Thanks for your input. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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