Daytona Style wheels for 2002 Pathfinder

[DejectedNuts]

Hello everyone,

 

This is my first post. Sorry if it's been covered already but searching the Forum has been tedious. My stock aluminum wheels (16x7 I believe) have had bead seal leaks 5 or 6 times over the last 3 years and I'm over it. Aluminum just doesn't seem to like the salt we put on our roads in the winter. So I would like to go with some quatlity powder coated steel wheels. I really like the look of the Daytona wheels and a.) I'm looking for a good deal (on a budget in Canada). b.) Need to make sure the backspace & offset will work. The following link has the wheel specs although this isn't the same "brand" as where I would be sourcing the wheels from.

 

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0149/1845/files/84_black_daytona.pdf?897523922596176642

 

16x8 6x5.5 with a 5" backspace and a +13mm offset (model # 84-­‐7860PL) $130/ea. The other option is to go with the 16x7 6x5.5 with a 4" backspace and a 0mm offset (model # 84-­‐7760L) $125/ea. The suppliers spec says they should be between 15-24mm offset but I believe that is only to remain inside the wheel wells. So a 0mm offset would have my tires stick out 15mm which isn't a bad thing if it doesn't affect the wheel bearings. I have read a few post that say the stock backspace is 4"(?) and most people tend to go with a 16x8 with 3.75" backspace so that they can fit taller tires...(where are they getting these?). If I'm correct, a 5" backspace will dramatically reduce the size of tire I can fit as it will bring the inside of the tire in towards my strut. Also, I'd rather not go with wheel spacers. So at the end of the day should I just stick with the 7" wide wheel? It limits me to arould 265 and under which isn't such a bad thing as I'd rather go taller than wider anyway. Currently I run 245 70R16 (29.5") Cooper Discoverer AT3 which have lasted me 3 years , I would like to go with 245 75R16 (30.5") as they are more common and therefore less expensive. Down the road I have dreams of getting Old Man Emu coils to get some lift. Thanks in advance for any good advice. Please keep in mind I'm a poor Western Canadian boy and can't get stuff shipped for $.99 like you lucky Americans.

[clkindred]

First off, welcome to NPORA!

I thought the offset was just the same as backspace just measured from the other side? Therefore simply a consequence of the backspace you want for a given wheel width. If stock backspace is 4" then a BS of 5" would suck the wheel in towards the strut by 1" My 98 had 15" wheels and 4.75" BS stock, most members here with that configuration go for 3.75" BS to push the wheel out by 1"

Rubbing the strut dose not become an issue until 33" tires IIRC, the main reason for pushing the wheel out is so that ~31" tires don't rub the subframe when turning sharply.

 

Just did a quick search, it seems a 8" wide wheel gives a lot more options (and cheaper) than a 7" wide wheel.

[clkindred]

See if Pro Comp has dealers in Canada, they seem to indicate that they do, they offer a good selection of wheels that are reasonably priced.

 

http://www.procompusa.com/DealerLocator

 

I'd look, but I can't narrow it down farther than Saskatchewan to find a location.

Edited July 28, 2015 by clkindred

[DejectedNuts]

THanks for the response. I located a dealer 2.5hrs away and called them. They figure the 51 Series would be the least expensive however the backspace on those is 4.25". See link below.

 

http://www.procompusa.com/wheels-product-details.aspx?pt=101508&lc=PCW&pqq=2336-1558-1551&pqa=13689-8275-8057

 

Can you find a 16x8 that would fit with a 3.75" backspace? Why is this so hard? I can't be the first guy in my area that wants steel wheels for my rig...

[hawairish]

Please keep in mind I'm a poor Western Canadian boy and can't get stuff shipped for $.99 like you lucky Americans.

 

Nah, we get everything shipped for free.

 

Not to take away from getting steelies, but I'm curious why you're having seal leaks in the first place. A bad seal is a product of bent/damaged wheels, a bad bead on the tire, or even bad bead sealer. A slow leak is a tire issue 99% of the time. And I would imagine the aluminum alloy used to be rather resistant to road salts. Just food for thought.

 

Your understanding about +/- offset and backspacing is on the right track. Except a smaller backspacing on the same width rim moves the tire out away from the wheel hub. Backspacing is relative to the wheel width; offset is resultant of both. The rim width, offset, and backspacing are all correlated; you can basically determine any one if you have the other two. Offset is probably the one I'd think about less when making a decision on which to get.

 

 

You can see that backspacing is the distance from the mounting surface of the wheel to the edge of the wheel. Offset is the distance from the mounting surface of the wheel to the theoretical center of the wheel; + offsets are outside of the center, - offsets are inside. Specified wheel widths are generally 1" wider physically, so for 4" of backspacing:

• a 6" wheel (physically 7") has +.5" offset (or 12.7mm or 13mm)
• a 7" wheel (physically 8") has 0 offset
• an 8" wheel (physically 9") has -.5" offset

If you are going from a 7" wide wheel to an 8" wide, and keep the same offset, your backspacing will increase and come closer your strut. Since you need the wheel to go away from your strut (or stay the same distance away), you need to decrease backspacing. If you want to get an idea of where your stocks are, just measure them like shown in the pics. Then, eyeball down the side of your truck and think about how much farther out you'd like to have the tire, then go from there. This is a personal preference.

 

Also, if you plan to go beyond the 254/75/16, consider a 16x8. Most taller tires I've seen have an approved rim width of >7.5. I don't think many tire shops will flinch when mounting to a 16x7, but who knows what "approved" will really mean if something fails.

[DejectedNuts]

Thanks for the info. Believe it or not, both my 97 maxima and my pathfinder have had corroding aluminum rims. Likely it's not something you have to deal with because you have a warmer climate.

[clkindred]

I have seen many alloy wheels corrode badly, most likely starts as damage to the clear coat, then the salt gets underneath it and the pitting begins. So if there were scratches close to the bead area from tire weights, mounting or curb rash there would be no stopping it.

 

So before we can go deeper into your wheel needs, we need to know for sure what your stock BS is, and how much you would like to change it. If your stock BS is 4", then your wheel already sits 3/4" farther out from the strut than mine did stock.

[hawairish]

Thanks for the info. Believe it or not, both my 97 maxima and my pathfinder have had corroding aluminum rims. Likely it's not something you have to deal with because you have a warmer climate.

 

I have seen many alloy wheels corrode badly, most likely starts as damage to the clear coat, then the salt gets underneath it and the pitting begins. So if there were scratches close to the bead area from tire weights, mounting or curb rash there would be no stopping it.

 

I don't doubt they corrode, and I've lived in salt states for a few years (MN, IL) to know the impact. But, for something that took many years to occur on aluminum, I don't see how steelies would fair any better. Powder coating will succumb to the same fate of clear coat, but the steel will rust a helluva lot faster. I know because I had steelies on my Frontier; they chipped, and immediately rusted in those spots...even here in the high desert.

 

But anyway, I didn't want my takeaway from my post to be about aluminum vs. steel vs. corrosion. Hope you find the info useful.

[clkindred]

Ah, I just thought this was the reason for looking for replacement wheels, and affordable replacements. Nothing lasts forever