tiredpathy Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 ok all im back, since my last post i now have power back to my security and all other electronics work. however now im getting no spark. i put new plugs in and still nothing. i have a hard time believing that all six of my coil packs went at the same time but what do you guys think? anything else that i can check/test? im at a loss here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiredpathy Posted September 17, 2014 Author Share Posted September 17, 2014 Well i tested cam sensors and those were fine tested crank sensor and that failed, put a new crank sensor in and still wont start however if i unplug the sensor the truck starts and will run as long as i give it some gas. any ideas or help would be most appreciated! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quaintbucket Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Check your cap and rotors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mel.d Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Timing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiredpathy Posted September 17, 2014 Author Share Posted September 17, 2014 No cap and rotor individual coil packs. what would make timing just go out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mel.d Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 No codes? You mentioned a previous post - what was the problem to begin with and what did you do to resolve power back to your electronics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiredpathy Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 The only code is for fuel level sensor and thats been on for almost 2 years. the problem before was i had no radio, horn, alarm,security light, dome lights, power windows and locks would only work if key was in the "on" position and no start. running out of ideas i was curious if the horn itself worked so i unplugged it and touched a wire from the pos battery terminal to the horn, it honked and i noticed the security light was flashing again. checked everything again and all works except dome light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mel.d Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 So you didn't do anything to really fix the initial electrical problem. It just some how started working again? If this is the case, then the problem is not likely resolved and is probably an intermittent electrical failure. I'm starting to think that you have an intermittent open circuit probably due to a loose hot or ground wire, bad switch, or relay. Since you mentioned that none of your accessories would work unless the key was placed in the "On" position, that is were I would start troubleshooting. After reviewing the schematic for the power supply routing, it shows that power is provided to all of the listed accessories from the "On" position which explains what you experienced. However, the schematic also shows that there should be a direct connection to those accessories regardless of ignition position. The path of the circuit shows +12VDC > 120A fuse > 40A fuse > two 7.5A fuse. The first 7.5A fuse in the circuit feeds the following accessories: HORN, REMOTE, ASCD, KEYLESS, VEHSEC. The second 7.5A fuse feeds the following accessories: FLS1, FLS2, FLS3, MIL/DL, MAIN, BA/FTS, A/C, H/LAMP, CLOCK WINDOW, D/LOCK KEYLESS VEHSEC, NATS...etc. This sounds like most of the accessories that you were having problems with right? So I would start by checking all wire connections starting from the battery and working your way down to the accessories as well as checking the 40A and both 7.5A fuses. I would double check ALL fuses as well as test the new CS sensor to make sure it is good (could be poor quality or a return). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiredpathy Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 Fuses all check out ok and the wires as far as i can follow all seem to be ok. not sure where the wires from the ckp sensor go, i know one is ground and i get a 12 v sig from one when the key is on, and the third im suposed to get 5v when key is on and a metal object is touched to the end of the sensor. does that wire maybe go to pcm? could this be my problem with everything? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mel.d Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 All sensors lead back to the ECU. I'm surprised you didn't throw a CEL with the CKP sensor unplugged. The third wire you mentioned is the pick-up wire that sends the timing signal back to the ECU. That fact that you are able to start it without the CKP sensor plugged, but fails to start when plugged doesn't make sense unless it was faulty to begin with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiredpathy Posted September 21, 2014 Author Share Posted September 21, 2014 The new crank sensor tests good, im really running out ideas on this one. any one know of something else that can cause all this headache? Any ideas or theorys would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mel.d Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 Check all ignition coils. If it is good and still no spark, then you need to check the ECM for a signal. The ECM sends a signal that then gets amplified by the power transistor that is built into each ignition coils. Troubleshooting of the circuit can be found in section EC, pg 677 of the factory service manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mel.d Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 Also check the ECM relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 The new crank sensor tests good, im really running out ideas on this one. any one know of something else that can cause all this headache? Any ideas or theorys would be great. Sorry, I've never worked on a VQ35 but I highly recommend you download the FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section and go through the trouble shooting section in the EC file, it goes by failure description, not ECU code as well. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now