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Stripped transfer case drain bolt


Djfob
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My best option seems to be welding a 3/8 extension to the plug. My concern is since the plug is recessed flush against the transfer case.

 

Can the heat from flux welding cause the aluminum case to crack? I know the welds shouldn't stick since it's aluminum but only to the steel drain plug.

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personally, I would drill it out with progressively bigger drill bits... Start by punching a center point, then start with a small diameter drill bit like 1/8 or 3/16... drill at slow speed and clean up as you go.. The plug will be out in about an hour or so... Once you get near the size of the plug itself, you will be able to fish out the last bit and pieces of it....

Welding could cause you to crack your TC...This would be alot worst...

 

My opinion...

Good luck.

 

S.

Edited by fleurys
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At least I was able to get the fill bolt out to top fluid up, seemed pretty empty as I got over 2 quarts in. At the same time I have no idea what fluid was in there. Cross my fingers it's ATF which is recommended.

 

Cracking the case is a much worse situation as the tcase is working fine. Drilling it out maybe the best option, plug is in there so tight I risk stripping threads on the tcase.

 

I have a feeling for the drain bolt to be flush against it was over torqued? My fill plug wasn't.

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Or you could use a piece of tubing ( 1 foot or 2.) over your ratchet and give it a go..kind off like a cheater bar ... I thought you meant your drain bolt was stripped... Like it,s turning but not coming out...

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Probably because it wouldn't be 3/8 on a Nissan, probably 10mm is my guess? there is .5mm difference in size there, and why is a Canadian using standard tools?

I recommend you soak the threads down with a proper penetrant, buy one of these http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6177-Square-Drive-Socket/dp/B000P6UNMO

and hammer it into the plug, then try to remove with a breaker bar (save drilling for a last resort).

These plugs are a pipe seal which are notorious for getting stuck. Whenever you put a plug back in, wrap the threads with some teflon tape. It will help seal the threads, meaning you don't have to tighten the crap out of it, and will help prevent it from being stuck in the future.

 

The capacity of the TC is 2.375 US quarts, so it was basically empty. Are there any signs of leaking anywhere?

 

B

 

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Thought I could get away with a 3/8 with electrically tape wrapped around it, worked on fill plug. I was intending to buy drain plug socket set but couldn't find it local only on harborfreight website.

 

Surprisingly TC looks dry with no leaks at all considering how much fluid it took. All mode cases hold about 3 quarts.

 

Torque spec on there is something small since it's in inch/lb. previous owner must have over torqued.

Edited by Djfob
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Are tools different in Canada? I know all about the whole metric issue, but do you guys not have 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 or 1" drive ratchets/sockets? I've never had an issue using these to remove this style drain plug.

 

To the OP: I've only had this happen once, my solution was to find a large torx (star looking) socket that was just a touch larger than the now rounded opening, smacked it in there with a hammer, then fired up a small handheld propane torch, applied some heat to the area around the plug and presto! The old plug should certainly be replaced with a new one, so be sure you either have it, or can get one easily before removing it. Teflon tape or a little silicone sealant on the threads and proper torque will make it much easier next time.

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The problem isn't the 3/8 ratchet was "different", it's that the it truely isn't 3/8, it's metric. This is more common than you can imagine and though just a ratchet will do the trick in most cases, it ain't the correct tool and will backfire sometimes. In the case of the OP, using the correct tool (which I'm sure a parts store would have had, harbor freight ain't the only place that sells tools) could have avoided this situation (again which is very common to see for me). Yes I've been known to rig something to work in a bind or make something into a single purpose tool that makes life a little easier but the correct tool can change your day. You don't use a crescent wrench on your oil drain plug, do you?

 

 

(Not trying to sound like I'm scolding OP, people just jamming ratchets into drain plugs is just one of my many peeves... But I hate a lot of things so don't feel bad)

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You don't use a crescent wrench on your oil drain plug, do you?

You know better than to ask that!

 

Thought I could get away with a 3/8 with electrically tape wrapped around it, worked on fill plug. I was intending to buy drain plug socket set but couldn't find it local only on harborfreight website.

 

Surprisingly TC looks dry with no leaks at all considering how much fluid it took. All mode cases hold about 3 quarts.

 

Torque spec on there is something small since it's in inch/lb. previous owner must have over torqued.

Next time, if need be, put a metal shim on one side of the square drive, the harder the better. That will give you far better odds, I've found electrical tape doesn't do much in this scenario. :shrug:

 

Sorry though, I was rushing this morning and didn't pay attention to your year and assumed a VG33, not VQ35 so the quantity was wrong, and the link I provided was supposed to be for a 10mm square drive, not a 10mm hex. Don't know what happened other than carelessness...

I would still get the 10mm square drive and hammer it in there to get it loose and replace the damaged plug. If you were 2 quarts down, I suspect there is some other issue and you may have to revisit this sooner than later.

 

Are you sure the torque is in inch/lbs? that is almost nothing...

 

B

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