noquarter89 Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 My pathy would not start the other day. It turns over and partially combusts but it won't start. I ran the codes and code 13 ( engine temperature sensor ) was the only code that showed up. I replaced the sensor and the connector to it and it made no difference. The battery and starter are only a couple days old and both were tested at purchase. I have a 90 amp maxima alternator that's only 3 months old and it was tested at purchase too. I checked all the fuses and fusible links are they are fine too. I'm not sure where to go from here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebel526 Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 Check the plugs and harness going to the coolant sensor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 Yep, make sure the sub harness for the sensor is perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noquarter89 Posted June 13, 2014 Author Share Posted June 13, 2014 One of the wires for the connector going to the CHTS is missing some insulation. The wire is still connected though. I'm assuming that's my culprit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 It can be broken inside and you wouldn't know unless you do an ohm check. There needs to be basically zero resistance in the wiring from the sensor to the ECU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noquarter89 Posted June 13, 2014 Author Share Posted June 13, 2014 Ok. I have a multimeter but electrical isn't my strong suit. Where should I place the leads to measure for the resistance? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 (edited) On each connector end of the wires. One lead on one plug, the other on the other end. If the sub harness is good, test between the engine harness and the ECU. I've found that code 13 usually comes up when there's a hard failure, meaning there's an open somewhere in the circuit. Edited June 14, 2014 by Kingman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noquarter89 Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 Alrught. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noquarter89 Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 Oops, didn't mean to hit send that fast. I'll get out the multimeter and check everything this afternoon. Thanks for the help King. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noquarter89 Posted June 28, 2014 Author Share Posted June 28, 2014 I replaced both temperature sensors and the connectors for each. I ran the codes again and nothing came up, all clear. Truck still wouldn't start. New cap, rotor and plugs and still no start. How can I test to see if the ignition coil is good? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 Pull the coil wire off the cap, ground it out, and have someone crank the engine. It'll spark if it's good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noquarter89 Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share Posted June 29, 2014 Ok thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noquarter89 Posted July 11, 2014 Author Share Posted July 11, 2014 Ok, IC wouldn't spark. Put new IC in and still no spark. How do I test the power transistor/ignition control module? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 Check for power at the coil. There's also one wire, red I think, with a single black connector that runs from the fender well over to the distributor harness. Make sure that's good. Make sure the distributor harness is plugged in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noquarter89 Posted July 11, 2014 Author Share Posted July 11, 2014 I checked the single wire and it's connector and they were fine. I started checking all the connectors around the ignition coil and distributor and found this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 Looks like goopy old die-electric grease. Plug it back in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noquarter89 Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share Posted July 12, 2014 It was plugged in when I found it. The pic doesn't show it too well but the connections and corroded and I don't think I can reconnect it without it crumbling apart. Do you know what connector that is? One end runs by itself past the radiator and connects to the harness on the passenger side fender. The other end is bundled with the two that are still connected and they go along the driver side of the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 I really don't remember what that's for. I kinda think it's the alternator charge harness though. Does it have two fairly large white wires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noquarter89 Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share Posted July 12, 2014 Yep, two large white wires. I followed them and they go to the alternator. I'll get them replace and hopefully be back on the road. Thanks for the help king. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noquarter89 Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 After repairing the alternator harness connector the truck still will not start. I measured (per Haynes) the resistance in the primary ignition circuit and it was within spec. When I measured the resistance on the secondary circuit it wouldn't give a reading. The Haynes says the the secondary circuit consists of cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires, the ignition lead from the coil to the distributor and the secondary windings of the ignition coil. The cap, rotor, plugs and wires, and coil are all new. I'm stumped where to look next. Is the "secondary windings of the ignition coil" the book mentions, the ICM that is bracketed with the coil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noquarter89 Posted July 25, 2014 Author Share Posted July 25, 2014 Im finding harness connectors that are needing replaced. Rockauto and elsewhere sell connectors for specific part but where can I buy just generic connectors like these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteyPathy Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 I know it's not answer you want but I'd buy generic connectors and replace both sides. If you do this remember to cut the harness side back several inches if possible and add in a couple inches new wire to replace the length you loose by clipping old connection out. You don't want to put new connection in and have it come up half inch short of plugging together! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noquarter89 Posted August 24, 2014 Author Share Posted August 24, 2014 Where can I buy generic connectors at? I didn't see them at the parts stores in town and I'm not sure where to search online. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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