jayjay6888 Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 So I have my share of troubles with my pathy over the past 6 months or so as my recent topics show. So on to the problem now ..on the interstate stuck in traffic and when it finally cleared I go to accelerate to get back to highway speed she shutters and had no go so I pulled to the side and she was shaking terrible then died I could get it to start with my foot on the gas but would shake hard then cut out again and again... I had a friend stand by the rear and he said the smell coming from the muffler smelt awful and similar to sulfur. I have heard of people's vehicles not starting due to clogged catalytic converters but that its gradual meaning showing signs before it cuts out. She will not fire at all this morning. What ive done .. Spark is there Sprayed starter fluid in throttle body no change Parts replaced in the last 6 months Spark plugs ngk oem Wires bosch premiums Distributor non reman Fuel filter Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 That sounds exactly like a clogged cat. Does it run okay when the truck has cooled down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayjay6888 Posted May 30, 2013 Author Share Posted May 30, 2013 Wont even start now car sat overnight I messed with it this morning Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 You dont have a check engine light (CEL) on from this? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayjay6888 Posted May 30, 2013 Author Share Posted May 30, 2013 No not right now I know my o2 sensors need to be replaced ...2 of them to be exact but that shouldnt keep vehicle from turning over right? Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 That sounds eerily similar to what my car is doing...it has gotten worse, except my car will start...for now. I've changed pretty much the same parts you have changed, except for the distributor and fuel pump. The car stumbles and shakes and while this is happening, it runs richer than Trump. To the point I can see the black smoke coming out of the tailpipe, as if it were a diesel. I also get a strange smell, not of rotten eggs but just very heavy spent fuel smell. I have changed the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, TPS, AICV and ordered a new distributor, new fuel pump, new MAF and all four O2 sensors from Rock Auto yesterday. Hopefully they'll be here soon. You make a good point though jayjay6888, what if it is caused by clogged cats? I'll have to ask at my stealership to see if they would know... Hmmmmnn... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 both of these symptoms....sound like O2 sensor problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 both of these symptoms....sound like O2 sensor problems. Except I would think those would light up the SES light. Wouldn't a clogged catalytic converter throw said code along with the sulfur deposit odor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayjay6888 Posted May 30, 2013 Author Share Posted May 30, 2013 So I unplugged maf sensor and it fired up ran rough of course....I hooked it back up and it will almost turn over but dies ...bad sensor? Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Try spraying it down with MAF cleaner? It's good to pick up a can ($9 or so) and spray it down with each air filter change. The can will last you many, many years so don't hesitate with the initial cost like I did. I have used it on three cars so far and have noticed a difference on two of them. However, I have yet to smell rotten eggs from either of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Except I would think those would light up the SES light. Wouldn't a clogged catalytic converter throw said code along with the sulfur deposit odor? I misread, a known bad O2 was mentioned and I assumed CEL on. You should be getting a bank 1 or bank 2 )(or both) low effeciency code. But again, with the strong smell I keep going back to one or more of the four O2 sensors on the R50.... OR really bad/cheap sulphur rich fuel ...........which doesnt fit it running fine then choking out in stop and go traffic..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 OR really bad/cheap sulphur rich fuel ...........which doesnt fit it running fine then choking out in stop and go traffic..... Good point. How long did this occur after your last fill up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 Update: I asked the techs at the dealership and they said: It is very unlikely the cat is clogged unless: Bad fuel is used regularly There is an issue with the head-gasket (fouling up the cat with oil) Rotten egg or sulfuric smell can be due to bad fuel (as mentioned above) The likelyhood that the vehicle would stall and not start due to a clogged cat is nearly impossible. Rough running could signify a bad o2 sensor but more likely a MAF sensor. Recommendations: Start with the simplest stuff: Check the MAF Check vacuum lines Check all the leads and sparkplugs Check the distributor, cap and rotor Replace O2 sensors causing code(s) Check temp before and after the cat(s) - Should be uniform (nearly the same temperature at the inlet and outlet, if temperature at outlet is lower than inlet then the cat is not working optimally. (If you have a two-way reader) check the voltage on the O2 sensors (inlet sensor should be reading quick changes in voltage, outlet sensor should remain at near the .4, .5, .6, .7 volts and fluctuate slowly only) If outlet sensor reads low voltage and quick fluctutations it is bad. Ofcourse they recommended using Nissan spec parts as opposed to other brands...but well, we do what we can, right? Other things that can kill a cat-converter: Impacts Rapid immersion in cold water Interestingly, I was told that a customer (with a 2000 maxima) experiencing a similar issue, stumbling, stalling, not starting recently went to the service department. It was diagnosed as a MAF. The customer had it changed by another mechanic and it ran rough so Nissan had to perform some kind of ECU re-learning as (apparently six different types of MAF can be used in the 2000 Maxima, depending on engine & transmission choices) Thankfully, the service tech I spoke with doesn't seem to think the Pathy's have the same issue. (only one type of MAF for all 3.3L V6) N-E way, hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayjay6888 Posted May 31, 2013 Author Share Posted May 31, 2013 Clean maf and throttle body it will start with my foot on the gas but barely. The lights dont even go out on the dash it just sputters until I let my foot off the gas.. Last fill up was yesterday ironically and it happend after driving about 30 or so miles Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayjay6888 Posted May 31, 2013 Author Share Posted May 31, 2013 Ive also seen on parts sites that the xterra frontier mercury villager qx4 and a 2001 3.8l v6 mustang all use the same maf? Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 Ive also seen on parts sites that the xterra frontier mercury villager qx4 and a 2001 3.8l v6 mustang all use the same maf? Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2 Really? 3.8L V6 Mustangs? I mean, I can see the Qx4, Frontier and Xterra (all with a 3.3L) and maybe even the Villager ( I think also a 3.3L, if I'm not mistaking but a Mustang? Wow! I need to get out more... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHAOSMARINE Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 I do believe I'm seeing a trend here. Though most of ours having this problem are older than JayJays. Here is a link to our conversations on almost these same exact things. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35587-pathy-troubles/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayjay6888 Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 So I took the access panel off for fuel pump ...which line is the outflow and which is the return? Im trying to check For Fuel Pressure And the hoses under the hood are a pain to pull loose these popped right off Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 (edited) So I took the access panel off for fuel pump ...which line is the outflow and which is the return? Im trying to check For Fuel Pressure And the hoses under the hood are a pain to pull loose these popped right off Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2 I looked into the FSM and I cannot find anywhere, which hose is for what. I also tried cutting and pasting a photo to illustrate but no such luck. Sorry. I'll try again but still, without directional flow indicators I don't think it'll be much help. EDIT: I just realized, ther emight be some indicators on th epump itself, if it is not too much trouble for you to pull out (or if you already have a spare, check on that one) Edited June 3, 2013 by Bluewulf73 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayjay6888 Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 Ok I have some new codes just checked like 5 mins ago The could be from me trouble shooting since I tried running it while the car was disconnected but p0100, p0325, p0180 all showed up twice the other code p0160 only listed once Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Did you try and start it with the MAF unplugged? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 He did, post #9. Started, ran rough...got engine light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Huh, P0180, fuel temp sensor A...never heard o' that one b4. At lease you're getting codes...mine won't gimme anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayjay6888 Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 Im going to get up with my buddy today and use his maf sensor from his xterra if that doesnt work then ill go from there hopefully that gets me somewhere Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayjay6888 Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 So it turns out it was the new distributor the nut holding the rotor on came loose and fell down into the distributor shorting something out I assume...so I got it to run still wasnt running great though so I adjusted the distributor to try and catch timing ..well that has put me back at halt new distributor timing completely off ...anyone know the socket size for the crank? Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now