ahardb0dy Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 (edited) I started a new topic only because I'm in a hurry, have to go somewhere with the wife, will delete later if necessary. Ok, decided to change trans filter today, Removed one of the rubber lines coming from the metal lines that come from the tranny, didn't have a rubber hose to put over the metal end so I used a piece of plastic tubing just to get it into my drain pan, and held the other end of the hose (rubber end I removed) in the pan as well. Had wife start the truck to pump out tranny fluid, of course picked the wrong line to remove (fluid was coming out of plastic tube end) and other than the fluid backing up the tube and spraying everywhere !! it worked ok. Will clean all that off later. removed the trans cross member while supporting the transfer case with a bottle jack. Removed all the pan bolts, pan dropped right down, gasket was loose was not stuck to pan or tranny Couldn't get pan out as was stated in the other thread, un bolted and removed the filter unbolted that metal tube and removed, the front bolts were a bitch to get un screw, had to use my short socket while it kept slipping n my tranny fluid coated fingers removed the pan, some metal residue on the magnet, will post pics tomorrow Questions: Can I re-install the filter before putting the metal tube back in, which would require putting the pan back up in the front first? Or should I put it back together the same way I took it apart? Do I coat the o-ring on the filter with tranny fluid first before putting it in? Fluid that came out didn't look that dirty but had like a foamy look to it. Anything special to do when re-filling? Just fill thru dipstick same amount that came out, start, run shifter thru gears than check fluid level?? Thanks, got to run, more questions later if I think of anything else Appreciate it !! Edited August 5, 2012 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 (edited) Coat the O-ring with petroleum jelly before putting it on the filter. I would install the filter then put the pan back up, making sure to secure the cooler line clamps first before the other pan bolts. Filter and pan bolts are 61 - 78 inch pounds, drain plug torque spec is 22 - 29 foot pounds. Use a new crush washer for the drain plug. Refill with the same quantity drained, turn engine on, select all gears then return to P, check trans fluid level. Use "COLD" range, check HOT same way later. Edited August 4, 2012 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 5, 2012 Author Share Posted August 5, 2012 2 pics I just took of the magnet, don't know if this is considered an acceptable amount of metal, not going to do anything if it isn't anyway so guess it doesn't really matter. If tranny ever goes will not have it rebuilt I'll just get one from the junkyard or out of an xterra if I have to. The days of paying $2K to have a tranny rebuilt are long gone !!! LOL Also does the tranny filter if original say Nissan on it somewhere? The one that I pulled out just has a number on it. magnet pics below: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 I do not know if the OEM filter has any specific markings on it; mine was covered in a light coating of grey clutch wear material and I did not wipe any of it off to look. That magnet looks alright I guess. I don't remember what my in-pan donut magnet looked like. You may want to consider installing a Magnefine in-line filter which has an additional magnet that catches all ferrous wear material, and additional paper filtering media in the range of 35 microns to catch any other stuff (the in-pan strainer is more like a rock catcher in comparison). The pictures of the magnet don't show the other side which had quite a bit more grit than the visible side. I saved that donut magnet and will place it in the transmission pan next time I do a pan drop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 5, 2012 Author Share Posted August 5, 2012 (edited) is the stock gasket rubber do you know? The one that was in mine is. My buddy bought this trans from a junkyard so I have no idea what year it came out of, I do know for sure that he didn't do anything to it because maintenance is a word he does not know !! Where did you get the filter from? Do you replace the filter element or just clean it? I guess if you replace it you have to order replacements as well? Edited August 5, 2012 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 I believe the stock gasket on my R50 was rubber. You can buy the filter online, it's about $22 shipped. Search Magnefine on Google, it'll be the first link. You replace the entire filter every 30k; once unscrewed you shouldn't put it back together. It should be installed on the trans cooler return line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 5, 2012 Author Share Posted August 5, 2012 I thought it was designed to be taken apart, I was on the website but they don't say very much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 5, 2012 Author Share Posted August 5, 2012 question on the gasket, I plan on using some grey RTV to help hold the gasket in place, should I coat the entire surface of the pan than place the gasket on, or just go around the inside edge as if there was no gasket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 You shouldn't use anything on the pan gasket. You can stick some pan bolts through to help align the gasket on the pan before securing it. There is a significantly more expensive all metal version of the Magnefine that is reusable; you just replace the filter cartridge and clean the magnet. It's not worth the cost though in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 5, 2012 Author Share Posted August 5, 2012 too late, pan is cleaned and put a thin layer of the grey rtv on the pan and stuck the gasket to it, figured it couldn't hurt (hopefully) !! Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 5, 2012 Author Share Posted August 5, 2012 (edited) What a pain in the rear !!Tried putting the new filter in first but than couldn't see where the metal brackets that hold the metal tube go, so had to put front of pan up first, than the metal tube, which was a pain also because one end always wanted to go in further than the other which caused the other end to bind I guess and than the end that wasn't in all the way wouldn't go in any more !!, Ended up putting the end of the metal tube that was being a problem in first, the other end after moving the pan over slightly gave room to tap it in easily. Installed the metal brackets, than the new filter, than the pan. Everything went together ok except one pan bolt that seemed like it didn't want to get tight, it kept spinning, it was one of the bolts front of the pan that the bracket that bolts to the metal line that runs to the trans cooler is bolted to. Ended up taking the bracket off, than the bolt tightened right up, thought the threads were stripped out but it is ok. All together I drained 22 cups out ( measured with measuring cup I bought this morning) which converts to 5.5 quarts. Going to start refilling now, had to come in to look up conversion from cups to gallons, Hope the pan does not leak !!! I'll beat it with a sledge hammer at this point if it does !! LOL Edited August 5, 2012 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 5, 2012 Author Share Posted August 5, 2012 SUCCESS !!! Added Valvoline Maxlife ATF and started truck, no leaks, shut truck off and re-installed trans crossmember, took truck off jack stands and backed into street to be on level surface, checked fluid, looked ok, TEST DRIVE, seems like the 1-2 shift is smoother, doesn't rattle your teeth like it normally does, down shifts were hardly noticeable, drove about 10 minutes than back home. Checked fluid, slightly low, added some more. No drips in road anywhere, looks good. 45 minute 38 mile drive to work tomorrow will tell, thanks for everyone's help, always appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 Great, glad to head everything went well. Hope it stays that way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 6, 2012 Author Share Posted August 6, 2012 (edited) ME TOO !!! Have to say that Valvoline ATF sure does smell funky !! After I filled it I kept smelling the new tranny fluid and thinking it's leaking some where, turns out the smell was coming from the funnel sitting next to the truck !! Edited August 6, 2012 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 Oh yeah, that stuff stinks. Almost as bad as gear oil I'd say. It's good fluid though, it's synthetic too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 6, 2012 Author Share Posted August 6, 2012 So, still no leaks after driving to work and back so that's good. I do notice it seems there is more heat than normal from the floor area. I re-checked the fluid level when I got home and it is full. I wonder if the stock trans cooler is not doing it's job correctly. I did blow low pressure air thru it and got good airflow coming out the other side. May have to do the separate trans cooler sooner than I was going to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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