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Sudden trouble. P0302 P0325


MrT
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I went to start it today and nothing was working, at all. No lights, no power. Ok, wiggled the + post and it all worked again. Cleaned the terminal and all was well until... Started it again and now it's down a cylinder until it's not. And then it is again. got a flashing CEL. Checked the codes, P0304, P0607. [P0302, P0325]

 

Is my ECM dying? Loose connection somewhere? Any ideas?

Edited by MrT
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I'm not familiar with that cryptic light flashing nonsense. Do you have an ODBII scan tool you can use or borrow to pull codes that way?

 

Is there any significant corrosion on the battery terminals or either end of the battery cables?

Edited by Towncivilian
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NM about the codes. I had a brain fart. it's P0302 (DTC 0607) and P0325 (DTC 0304). And I just cleaned the pos and replaced the neg and I don't see any significant corrosion anywhere, just surface corrosion and even that's not too bad.

 

It comes and it goes. No real logic to it. I'll start it and all will be well and then I shut it down and turn it back on and it's back to running like crap.

 

Edit: Voltages at all fuses test normal. Injector circuit maybe?

Edited by MrT
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Well, the last time I had the radiator out I didn't burp the system so it might just be from that. I'm still leaning toward an electrical issue.

 

Checked out the 'L' fitting and it was fine. It's way too late in my day to hug my warm engine to get at those vaccum lines and my knock sensor has been going off for 60k miles and there has never been coolant in the intake that I could see. Although I'm sure it is possible.

 

Pulled the #2 plug, it looked fine. Put it back in, runs fine again for now. :scratchhead: So yeah, if that's all it was then I'll be thrilled but somehow I really doubt it with this beast.

 

We'll see what tomorrow brings I guess.

Edited by MrT
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Alternator output voltage will vary between 13.8 and 14.2. Will a bad alternator cause misfires etc? Either way I think it's shot but could this be the root cause of my problems or just something else that's wrong?

Edited by MrT
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The boot could have been loose before you removed the plug, and now that you've put it back in it's making a solid connection. :shrug:

 

Hopefully it's a simple issue like that. And no, a bad alternator won't cause any misses or crappy drivability unless the battery gets really weak from not charging. Yours is charging fine though. :aok:

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It did it again after I checked the plugs. And by between 13.8 and 14.2 I mean that it will not go past 13.8 at any rpm and then I'll turn it off then on again and it will be at 14.2 at idle

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It's supposed to do that. The voltage regulator senses the need for more juice and ups the amperage/voltage a little. You used the starter and drew from the battery, so it's replenishing it.

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So is 13.8 really normal? That's almost half a volt lower than what the FSM says the regulated output voltage should be (14.1-14.7).

Edited by MrT
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I don't know the answer to your last question directly, but I can tell you it's not your problem.

 

Most sensors and whatnot used by the ECU run at 5 volts or some other very low voltage.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Could this be a possible source of a leak after the MAF? (obviously it could be but I guess I'm asking if you think it's likely)

 

itklk1.jpg

 

It doesn't extend past the clamp but it's there... (this is the smallish duct immediately before the TB. The cracks are on the side that connects to the TB)

 

Also, I've checked as per the TSB and there is no sign of any coolant in the intake collector.

Edited by MrT
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