dynomax Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 (edited) Set out with my Amsoil tonight, did the rear end first, and I think I read a post for the wrong year Pathfinder. My owners manual and the online copy I have states no capacity for rear or front diff. I read 2.8L rear and 1.5L front but I think that was a WD21. Anyway, I have about 3.2qt in the rear. Anyone know if this is correct? What about the front, what do I need for that? I have just shy of 2QT left. My rear end is the HG43 4.3 LS. Not sure on the front? I thought there was a post on this, but the pinned one was for WD21. Thanks, sorry if this is in another thread, I can't seem to find it in my searches. Edited March 17, 2012 by dynomax Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathfounder Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 With the truck level, fill the diffs up until you can't get more in without it leaking back out. Whatever amount that ends up being is the amount you needed. I think my rear diff took two bottles and a bit into the third (a bottle being 1qt or so). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 Front differential: 1.95 quarts Rear differential: 2.96 quarts Transfer case: Part-time 4WD model: 2.32 quarts All-mode 4WD model: 3.17 quarts Download the correct FSM here, and owner's manual here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WOT Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 my 2wd diff only took about 1.8 quarts. I bought 2 single quarts and still had a splash left so im just guessing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 my 2wd diff only took about 1.8 quarts. I bought 2 single quarts and still had a splash left so im just guessing That doesn't make any sense. Mine took about 3 quarts. Are you sure yours drained completely, and were you parked on a flat surface during filling? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynomax Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 (edited) Front differential: 1.95 quarts Rear differential: 2.96 quarts Transfer case: Part-time 4WD model: 2.32 quarts All-mode 4WD model: 3.17 quarts Download the correct FSM here, and owner's manual here. Thanks again for the info. Update to this. I just finished all the fluids. Could not find a fluid pump at a good price, so i improvised that. $32 for a lincoln pump... i think not. I used a chunk of 3/8 plastic hose i had around, a hose clamp, and a 500ml squeeze bottle i think my wife used to decorate cookies with hahaa.. i cut the nipple a bit wider and clamped about 8" of hose on to it. I used amsoil sever gear 75-90 front and rear, ended up using just over 3qt rear, and just over 2qt front. transfer case i used mobil 1 synthetic (mine took about 2.5L). It previously had gear oil in it... lighter than 75-90... 70-80 maybe?? it was DARK! Worse than either differential! I hope I made the right move going with ATF in the transfer case rather than whatever gear oil i drained out. Motor is already mobil 1 synthetic and so was transmission. So, did it improve fuel economy?? Well, it can't get worse than 12mpg can it? We'll see! Shes all synthetic... and best thing I'm sure none of the diffs or xfer case have been done before. Edited March 20, 2012 by dynomax Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 (edited) Good thing you were able to change things out. Don't forget to grease your driveshaft(s) - your 2004 wants NLGI #2 lithium complex grease. If you're getting only 12mpg around town, that's pretty bad. You should be getting around 14-16 with a 4WD without manual hubs, from what I've read. How many kms are on this Pathfinder? Edited March 20, 2012 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynomax Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 (edited) Good thing you were able to change things out. Don't forget to grease your driveshaft(s) - your 2004 wants NLGI #2 lithium complex grease. I've had a few tanks this winter in storms (using 4x4) that were 10 and 11mpg also. When I say using 4x4 it would be no more than 50km out of the tank. I reset my trip meter when I fill up, it just tipped under the 3/4 mark with 75km on the trip meter. from experience, this tank will be 12mpg (US MPG) (20L/100KM) Highway is 14-14.5L/100KM If you're getting only 12mpg around town, that's pretty bad. You should be getting around 14-16 with a 4WD without manual hubs, from what I've read. How many kms are on this Pathfinder? Mine is a 4x4. Its got 130,000KMS right on the nose. I put new plugs in also, and run synthetic motor & tranny oil. Air filter is also new. Truck runs like a top and starts easy every time. Plugs made no difference in power or economy. Also cleaned MAF twice now. I looked for grease nipples all around that driveshaft where the U joint is, can't find one on the front or rear!! 2004 it is. If you have any suggestions on the MPG, I am more than open, I've done all the cheap & easy stuff... and I run nothing but supreme 91 octane as our 87 octane has 10% ethanol in it. Last summer I did run some regular, but never noticed a difference on the couple tanks i tried. Edited March 21, 2012 by dynomax Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Do you have a scan tool? If so, hook it up and verify that the thermostat is working. Your coolant temperature should be around 180 degrees at operating temperature. You may want to invest in manual locking hubs to save a few MPG - search for Warn hubs and you'll find plenty of info. No service engine soon light lit? Make sure the LED works - it should come on if you set the ignition to "ON". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WOT Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Do yo think greasing the driveshaft only grease the front of the shaft, or does grease somehow make it to the back. I still have that vibration/clank and Im thinking my lack of EVER greasing that fitting could be helpful... but I dont have a grease gun just yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 (edited) I really don't know. I'd like to find out. My el-cheapo Harbor Freight grease gun broke recently, but I grease my driveshaft more often than necessary out of boredom anyway so I'm sure it's fine for a few thousand miles, even though I'm using el-cheapo Supertech Moly-Lithium grease. Probably the only decent product Lucas makes is a grease gun, which is like $20 at Home Depot and looks pretty well-made - at least in comparison to the HF one. Edited March 22, 2012 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynomax Posted March 22, 2012 Author Share Posted March 22, 2012 I really don't know. I'd like to find out. My el-cheapo Harbor Freight grease gun broke recently, but I grease my driveshaft more often than necessary out of boredom anyway so I'm sure it's fine for a few thousand miles, even though I'm using el-cheapo Supertech Moly-Lithium grease. Probably the only decent product Lucas makes is a grease gun, which is like $20 at Home Depot and looks pretty well-made - at least in comparison to the HF one. Yeah, I have a couple not sure what brand, but when mine goes, i'm going to try a Lincoln. Thanks for the diagram on the driveshafts... I am not sure why i couldn't find them. i'll look again tonight! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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