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So you want lights?


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A few weeks back I bought 8 6in lights from 4x4parts and finally got a chance to install this weekend. The lightbar I used actually was made by Rigid Industries for a Toyota FJ. A guy I work with bought the light bar but the mounting brackets wouldnt let the 10in LED lights fit. They sent him a new one and told him to keep the old. He gave it to me and with a little bit of fabrication it turned into this...

 

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By wo0densp0on at 2012-03-12

 

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By wo0densp0on at 2012-03-12

 

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By wo0densp0on at 2012-03-12

 

The FJ light bar was a little wide so I cut a section out of the middle.

Edited by Wo0denSp0on
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By wo0densp0on at 2012-03-12

 

I took some flat headed bolts slid them into the factory rack slot and they fit quite nice.

 

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By wo0densp0on at 2012-03-12

 

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By wo0densp0on at 2012-03-12

 

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By wo0densp0on at 2012-03-12

 

The bar was built for the Rigid Industries LED lights...I cant afford those things! So I used a little angle iron to make this work out.

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By wo0densp0on at 2012-03-12

 

All the switches are the ones that came with the lights from 4x4parts. Had to do a little trimming on the switches to make them fit, but I think it turned out quite well.

 

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By wo0densp0on at 2012-03-12

 

I like how it turned out. Got lucky things went that easy with the FJ light bar slightly modified. Minus a little ground problem with the top 4 that had me confused for a moment it was a fairly easy install. If anyone else does this run a ground from to a better source than the factory roof rack slides.

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Nice light rack, thanks for the pics of the wiring run that helps a lot. One suggestion get some silicone around the wire entry point in the engine compartment. It will keep any water out of the inside, I know that is well up the firewall but it can't hurt seal it up a bit.

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I still have a couple more lights I want to mount at the corners of my hood so I still have a couple more wires to run. I ran out of wire or I would have pre-wired it with the rest of them. The lights sit a little higher than I had originally planned but for FREE.99 on the light bar I cant complain.

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The bumper is actually for an 07-12 jeep. Being for a jeep it doesnt cover all the things that need coverin on the Pathy. Once I get finished adding to it I'll put some pics up of how I mounted it and all.

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Hi, I'm wondering the wiring map. Do you use fuse/relay? If you did, what are the specs? I have rack with H3 lights but no idea how to wire. 12V 55W each, total 6 lights

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From my switch I have a wire running to the lights 1 to ground and 1 to battery with a 20amp fuse. 2 lights per switch. Not sayin thats the right way to run it but thats how I have it done. Mine are 130w each.

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I went to 4x4parts but didn't find the same lights as yours. From the pictures they seem HID.

If it is 130W per light, that might be dangerous bcos each light eats 130W/12V=10.8A and there are 2 lights per switch with only 20A fuse...

Perhaps you mean 130W per switch which makes sense at all.....

 

What kind of cable do you use? Do you worry about the heat under hood? you know, it is VQ engine....

 

Below is what I have...

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4 in front and 2 in rear

Edited by Bruce
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https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/off-road-light-kit-p-448.html - Link to the lights I am using. I havent worried about heat at all..didnt think it would be a factor but I also dont know much about the VG engines. If I end up continually blowing fuses I will change up my wiring. The wires I used are the ones that 4x4parts sent with the kit. Also the kit came with 2 switches for 4 lights so I wired em up 2 Lights per switch as I figured was intended.

 

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By wo0densp0on at 2012-03-17

 

The wires come out directly behind the intake. Im not sure if there is a difference between the 98 and 01 firewall so the route I used may not be exact to how yours may look.

 

Routed it like this.

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By wo0densp0on at 2012-03-17

 

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By wo0densp0on at 2012-03-17

 

1 20A fuse per switch. Tied them to the back side posts of my battery. Pulled my fuses out to where you could see them. Had it tied back under the fender.

Edited by Wo0denSp0on
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It looks like you ran 4 wires up to the lights? Why? You should run 2 wires, one for each pair, run one wire to the far side light than use a scotch lok connector and a short piece of wire to tie in the second light, do the same for the other pair of lights, this way you only run 2 wires up to the roof. Looks good though, I would put some wire loom over the wires under the truck and under the hood makes it look cleaner.

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Thats how it is wired. What you see are 4 power wires to the battery for 4 switches. 3 of which are the only ones currently tied to lights. There are only 2 goin up to the roof. I havent completely finished with it yet since im planning to add 2 more lights if i can figure out how i want to mount them. Once that is done I will clean it all up and make it neat.

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Ha nope sure didnt notice! I had problems with it getting loose for a little while tho..that may have contributed to it. When I swapped my old battery for that Optima it was dark and I was holding a flashlight with the head/shoulder grab so I wasnt payin any attention to anything other than makin sure they were on the right posts.

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