Higher compression without boost

[Tungsten]

Just by design if you mill the block or the heads, the timing belt will not even line up properly. Think of how the timing belt is routed. This may work on an OHV engine but it will not work well on a SOHC.

Boosting on the other hand is the best thing to do because these engines were designed to handle boost. The VH45 pistons and boring the 3.3 block is probably the best way to go for power in N/A terms. The VH pistons are flat while the VG pistons are dished. Yes, with VH45 pistons, you are using their flat piston shape to increase compression.

[Kingman]

Find some 13:1 Electromotive pistons.

[MY1PATH]

MR.510 will never endorse nonsense like this, why don't you talk to him. He in fact said, NEVER mill the heads on a VG.

 

You sir, DID NOT HEAR IT FROM HIS LIPS. Do NOT condescend to me about what someone did or did not say to me because you are not here. We have had several discussions on milling VG33 heads down 1mm (MAXIMUM) and he admittedly told me he did not realize the impact on timing was as little as I said it would be. (which may have been a factor in him saying otherwise in the past I was not there so I will not comment on that) Keep in mind that milling 1mm will not effect belt routing in the slightest. If it was so problematic How would the race engine guys be running the SEC .020mm gaskets which actually lower the heads by 1.25mm.

Please have some facts, don't state something as a fact simply because you think it so and maybe even get some hands on experience before you go saying the belts won't line up or other such things.I could go on but I give up on you. Hopefully your words don't poison someones build...

Now getting back to the Original Poster

4. Has anyone seen a way to change how far the rod pushes the piston? Isn't this called a stroker ???

 

http://www.paeco.com/ does what is most likely the most reasonably priced srtoker you can find in the us. It is an offset grind with the crank built back up to standard bearing diameter. You can get 3.6L out of this kit (I recommend using a 3.3 block for thicker walls) and any compression ratio you want. The pistons are likely forged (good for boost!) and as such you would not want to get on the engine until its fully warmed up. (forged pistons need to heat and expand)

They will be doing my crank one day but I will be using OE cast pistons that do not expand as much so less gas is wasted on proper warm ups IF you believe in that sort of thing.

 

I'm done here, I'm sure there are lots of options on strokers (fine) and probably some wrong information to follow as well (bad).

Edited February 2, 2012 by MY1PATH

[Tungsten]

I'm still against changing the geometry of the block, even by 1mm. Boring out the cylinder walls a hair is OK but actually changing the shape of the block, even by 1mm, still sounds like a really bad idea to me, especially when there are other much more effective ways to make more power.

[Kingman]

That's nice.

[ejin4499]

I'm still against changing the geometry of the block, even by 1mm. Boring out the cylinder walls a hair is OK but actually changing the shape of the block, even by 1mm, still sounds like a really bad idea to me, especially when there are other much more effective ways to make more power.

Next time I post a question do me a favor and keep any opinions or facts to yourself. I would rather blow up an engine than have you poison another thread.

In other words BUTT OUT!!

[Tungsten]

shove it