WarthogWD21 Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 I have a 1988 3.0 V6 4x4. The check engine light came on and some work to the pathfinder by putting in new hoses, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and cleaning out gunk and grime. When I put everything back together everything went hay wire. When it turns on, I can't rev over 500 rpms or else I loose power, when I put it in gear, I loose power, and I think it might be the fuel pump, but I'm not sure. The engine light comes on after it stalls but I don't know how to diagnose it since its OBD1. Any advice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarthogWD21 Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Ok I managed to pull the code from the computer and it is telling me the cam angle/position sensor is sending a code. (13) . Also a code (11) for engine coolant temp. Any ideas on how to fix this or what I should do? The car runs but it cant get into gear without stalling and I cant get it over 500 rpm. It occasionally pops. Any help would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Make sure you're referencing the right codes. I don't know where the cutoff is, but I read on here that the codes changed between 87 and 89. First thing I'd do is to check the connections, especially where you were working. Make sure all the spark plug wires are right. Check the wiring to the coolant sensor, or replace the sensor (seems like a common problem). Was it doing anything funny before, or was the light just on? Also keep in mind, the deepest I've gotten into a VG was removing the idler pulley. This ^^ is secondhand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Make sure your wires are in the correct order, and they are all good. I've seen a 86.5 hardbody have a dead miss and throw a crank angle code after washing the engine. After replacing the plug wires it ran fine and the code was gone. If you have never changed the coolant switch it wouldn't hurt. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Almost always when the CAS goes bad the engine won't run. The sensor simply fails outright and you get nothing - no injector pulse or spark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarthogWD21 Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 When I pulled the valve covers, the driver side was blocked by the distributor so when I pulled the distributor and put it back in I think I screwed it up. Anyone know where I can get a diagram for the spark plug order? I put them back in the same order (I think). The vehicle was running great before hand and just gave me a code and I didn't check it(I know that was stupid). What would cause me to loose all power and stall if it isn't the camshaft position? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 The distributor being off a tooth... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarthogWD21 Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 The distributor being off a tooth... how would I realign it?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Take it back out, line the dot on the gear up with the arrow on the shaft, hold the rotor in place and slide it in when the engine is at TDC. The rotor will point to the left and at a slight angle towards the front of the truck when it's in properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarthogWD21 Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Take it back out, line the dot on the gear up with the arrow on the shaft, hold the rotor in place and slide it in when the engine is at TDC. The rotor will point to the left and at a slight angle towards the front of the truck when it's in properly. where are these arrows and dots? All I see is a gear on the bottom of the distributor and the gear that attaches to the cam ( I think ) and how do I get it TDC? Do I need to get to the timing belt? Sorry this is the first time doing anything like this for me. I attached a photo of what I see. Right now the alternator is pulled off with the bracket that holds it to give me access and the AC has been completely removed. Besides that it's all pretty stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 (edited) Clean off the crank pulley so you can see the timing belt marks and remove the NO. 1 spark plug (left front if you're looking at the engine). Align the furthest left timing mark on the crank pulley with the arrow and check to see if the piston is all the way up or down. If it's down, spin the engine over one more time until the piston is up top. This is TDC. Arrow. Dot. Edited January 29, 2012 by Kingman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarthogWD21 Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Clean off the crank pulley so you can see the timing belt marks and remove the NO. 1 spark plug (left front if you're looking at the engine). Align the furthest left timing mark on the crank pulley with the arrow and check to see if the piston is all the way up or down. If it's down, spin the engine over one more time until the piston is up top. This is TDC. Just checking. So I remove the timing belt cover and turn the engine from there? Or? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 No. Use the crank pulley bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarthogWD21 Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 No. Use the crank pulley bolt. I'm frustrating beyond belief I know but where is the crank pulley bolt? Is that the pulley that drives all of the belts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarthogWD21 Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Which direction to I turn the pulley? When I look down spark plug 1's hole I dont see anything, even with a led light, so I'm assuming its all the way down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Clockwise. Stick a pencil down there so you can see when the piston goes up, just don't let it bind and break in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarthogWD21 Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 Clockwise. Stick a pencil down there so you can see when the piston goes up, just don't let it bind and break in there. Clockwise while looking at it front the front of the car or from the drivers seat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarthogWD21 Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 And sorry for all the questions! I thank you so much for all the help! It means a lot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarthogWD21 Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 Clockwise. Stick a pencil down there so you can see when the piston goes up, just don't let it bind and break in there. Ok I got the #1 pistol all the way up so I'm assuming this is TDC. Also found the dot (mine wasn't painted but there is a small dent) and lined it up with the small arrow on the distributor. When I try to drop it back in place it will no go in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarthogWD21 Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 Ok I got the #1 pistol all the way up so I'm assuming this is TDC. Also found the dot (mine wasn't painted but there is a small dent) and lined it up with the small arrow on the distributor. When I try to drop it back in place it will no go in. Alright I got everything lined up and put back together. When I try to turn it on it sounds pretty violent and wont run at this point. CPU is still giving me same codes (11) (13) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Are the crank marks lined up with the arrow? If it's a little off I assume the gears would hit wrong and stop it from dropping in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 The distributor gear does rotate a little as it meshes with the cam gear. Um, what do you mean by sounds a little violent? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Almost always when the CAS goes bad the engine won't run. The sensor simply fails outright and you get nothing - no injector pulse or spark. Not always, I just changed mine a few months ago. If the engine was cold it would start right up. If I shut it off when the engine was warm and wait 5 minutes or more I was screwed and had to wait till it cooled off. What was weird though once it was running it never quit. It did this to me when I was hunting. I slept in the next morning and she started right up. I loaded up and drove an hour and a half back home with no problems. Shut it off at home and it started right back up. Gave it 5 minutes and it wouldn't start. Changed the crank angle sensor and everything was good again. Drove back to the hunting camp. This guys case though it just sounds like he installed something wrong. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarthogWD21 Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 The distributor gear does rotate a little as it meshes with the cam gear. Um, what do you mean by sounds a little violent? It tries to turn over but it either pops or sends smoke out the carb. I haven't powered through it to get it to run. Nervous it'll blow or something will go horribly wrong. But it does turn over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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