rear axle seal leak question

[xplitive]

I was about to install my OME rear springs this weekend when I noticed, after removing the passenger side rear wheel, heavy, smelly axle fluid coming out through the wheel studs. Removed the drum and it was a mess in there. The wheel cylinder was fine and looked like everything was being tossed up from the axle. This happened once before less than a year ago so I took it to a different shop this time. I was under the impression that the center diff and axles need to be pulled to get this done and it would be a fairly involved process. The shop certainly played along with that. After picking up the vehicle from the new shop I noticed there didn't appear to be any marks on the nuts around the center section indicating someone took a socket to it. Quick search here.. which I should have done first.. and I came up with this:

 

"for the cost of a seal you could do it yourself - undo the metal brake line, undo handbrake cable, undo 4 bolts that hold the hub and bam the axle stub/hub pops out. the seal just sits in the axle housing."

 

Is it really this simple to get the axle out and replace the seal(s)? If it is, I've overpaid I'm sure and why it keeps happening has not probably been addressed (unless the shot suspension could be a contributor). If it is this simple, I want to follow up with the shop tomorrow and get them to give me a warranty period versus trying to get money back.

 

Good note is that while it was there I had them install the OME HD/MD spring combo, dorman rear arms, kyb shocks, kyb struts, new front axles and warn hubs. All the stuff coming off was original except for maybe the rear control arms. The rubber is completely fine and after a quick wipe down, the black coating for the most part is intact. Overall, I'm very happy with the ride.. was a little worried it might be too stiff and feel like its crashing into something everytime I hit a bump but its not and very close to the ride of my FJ. I'll post pics of the new stance and measurements later.

 

thanks

Edited January 25, 2012 by xplitive

[clkindred]

Cool, I don't know about replacing the axle seal so I could not tell ya' but I seems almost everything is not a complicated as shops like to claim.

 

What do you mean by "rear control arms? are you talking about the trailing arms?

[Heloflyboy]

Not exactly sure what axle is under a 2001 . I do know that on my 95 with 233b , it is a pain in the neck . I changed one side a couple months ago and it does take a little work , and that is if you have the tools.

[Towncivilian]

Not exactly sure what axle is under a 2001 . I do know that on my 95 with 233b , it is a pain in the neck . I changed one side a couple months ago and it does take a little work , and that is if you have the tools.

H233b is the rear axle for all R50s.

Edited February 1, 2012 by Towncivilian

[xplitive]

Cool, I don't know about replacing the axle seal so I could not tell ya' but I seems almost everything is not a complicated as shops like to claim.

 

What do you mean by "rear control arms? are you talking about the trailing arms?

 

yeah thats the more correct term I couldn't remember. jeez age is setting in.

[xplitive]

Not exactly sure what axle is under a 2001 . I do know that on my 95 with 233b , it is a pain in the neck . I changed one side a couple months ago and it does take a little work , and that is if you have the tools.

 

I feel much better then.. although I have access to a 2 and 4 post lift with air tools.. think I'll stick to oil changes that way I know I'm done in less than 30 minutes for sure .