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Me Poor Pathy


Kittamaru
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*sighs* Gents, I'm ashamed to say it's been almost two years now since I drove my beloved '90 Pathy... I haven't had the time or the money to do/get done the work it needs (moderate body rust that prevented it passing inspection, brakes/rotors, and a few other things).

 

I have a few simple questions to ask so I know what I'm getting myself into if/when I actually manage to get around to fixing the old gal up:

 

1) I'm assuming after 2 years ALL the fluids are bad... what's the best way to drain everything as much as possible? I don't have a lift or anything, so this will all be supported on 4x Jack Stands if needed. I'm looking at Gas, Oil, Tranny Fluid, and doing all filters and as many of the lines as possible.

 

2) Speaking of lines - gas lines and intake lines and all that - the rubber ones under the hood... after two years unmoved, is the risk of dry rot enough to warrant changing all that tubing?

 

3) Tires - my BFG A/T's have about half their tread left... but I'm guessing after sitting so long Dry Rot will have set in?

 

4) Brake Rotors/Pads - will these rust?

 

Now, it's been sitting in a sheltered area (a detached hand-built garage of sorts), so she's not totally exposed to the elements... but after two years... well, what am I looking to need to do? My hope is come summer/fall of next year I'll have the time and cash... but it may be another year still depending on how my job situation goes...

 

I'll be honest... if I can't get her running... selling her isn't an option ya know? She was my grandfathers truck and my first vehicle...

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Shame shame... At least theres a good chance it will be emissions exempt :lol:

 

Why's the body rot failure issues? (technically some rot is PA legal asong as there's no sharp edges some walking by could snag on and it's not a passage into the passanger compartment)

 

If rotors/drums are thence enough they can be resurfaced to if rusted over too...

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I think your tires would be fine. The gas is definitely bad. I was actually going through this with my dad. He has THREE 1979 Firebirds. I hate him for completely trashing them and letting them sit for 15 years.

 

The one had a 6.6l engine with a complete rebuild 18 years ago. It had 50miles on the rebuild when it was parked. My dad drained out the 18 year old gas. It reeked like nobody's business. It wouldn't burn worth a damn. He didn't seem concerned about the oil, or the hoses, or the coolant, or the transmission fluid. It started right up after almost 20 years, with fresh gas of course.

 

My dad being a cheapo and all, he drove it a few miles around town with everything from 20 years ago. 20-something year old tires, still holding air. Probably stock hoses from 1979. Brakes? They squeaked a little bit, but they worked. That flowmaster exhaust still sounded amazing.

 

Hell, even the headlight fluid smelled fresh!

 

To be honest, and realistic, I wouldn't worry about a thing. If a vehicle sat for 2 years? So what? I wouldn't even give the tires a second thought. I don't think you are giving anything enough credit. Yes, rubber rots, but not overnight like you are worried about. As far as the rotors, I might give those a glance out of safety. Just to see if they are pitted. Changing fluids and filters never hurts though.

 

Edit: oh yeah. Forgot to mention. All 3 of my dad's cars were completely unsheltered. That's the worst part. Been getting hit by the elements for 20 years. No garage, no roof. Occasionally a torn up tarp was thrown over them, but that's it. If your truck was covered by at least a half-makeshift garage, you're good.

Edited by 1994SEV6
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The gas will be in pretty bad shape. Disconnect the fuel rail from the line, and use the in-tank pump to pump it out into a separate container. You may have to hot-wire the fuel pump relay to get it to run continuously to run the tank dry. Feed the old gas to a lawnmower you don't like. Clean your battery terminals. Replace the air filter and inspect the intake in case the air intake has become a mouse nest. Clean your heater plenum to get out any leaves/seeds/mice out so you don't set the truck on fire from the fan resistor. The oil/filter should be changed, as with the brake fluid. Your distributor cap and rotor will likely be corroded, and will need to be cleaned/replaced. Transmission fluid should be changed, but probably is ok until after you get the truck moving. I'd consider dropping the tranny pan and removing any sludge, replace the filter, and top it off before you start the engine turning. Do a complete flush as soon as practical. Before you try to turn the engine over, remove the plugs and put some marvel mystery oil in the cylinders, and try to turn the engine over by hand, using a breaker bar on the crank bolt. Wiggle it back and forth if it doesn't move smoothly. Multiple applications of oil/torque may be required over several days to free it if necessary. Run it through a few rotations before you put the plugs back in. Spray in more oil as you rotate the engine. Your biggest issue will be if one of the piston rings has seized in its cylinder, and will destroy itself if its rusted in there when the engine is started. Dry rot in tires is probably more dependent on ozone/sun exposure than outright age, so I'd put the truck up on jackstands and inspect the tires before you plan on moving very far/fast. Brake rotors/drums will likely be rusted, but unless they are pitted badly, should smooth out just by working the brakes. Be careful with stopping as the rust coming off will make braking distances huge compared to what solid metal will provide. I'd inspect all the rubber lines and decide if they need replacement(brake and coolant hoses too!) Heat, sunlight, and ozone is what destroys rubber, so they might be ok to get things moving, but plan to replace them soon, since they are probably 21 years old now. Also, the timing belt has probably taken a set, and should also be replaced as soon as practical.

 

If you are facing storing the truck, fill the gas tank up to the top, drive the truck around until its good and hot(boil all the water out of the exhaust. Put stabil in the gas(or pump the tank empty as described above), and once its cooled, pull the plugs and spray fogging oil into the cylinders. Replace the plugs, and the seal the intake and exhaust with plastic to keep humidity(rust) out. Flush the brake fluid so it has clean fresh fluid to hold it over for a while. If you have the means, put a battery tender on the battery so it doesn't go dead. Jack the truck up on stands supported on the frame, and let the wheels hang in the air, it will keep the tires from flat-spotting, and the suspension from taking a set, from being parked for so long.

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The fuel lines are reinforced high-pressure hose and those normally don't fail.

 

I replaced a transmission in an '88 Pathfinder that sat for 3 years and it started right up with fresh gas. It even passed emissions the next day! The tank was dropped and cleaned thoroughly, the lines were cleaned out, new filter, but we left the injectors be. The brakes were a little rusty yes, but a few miles of driving and braking gets rid of that.

 

It's been a year now since the transmission replacement and not a single thing has failed on the rig. (amazing since I worked on it)

 

2 years isn't that long.

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Shame shame... At least theres a good chance it will be emissions exempt :lol:

 

Why's the body rot failure issues? (technically some rot is PA legal asong as there's no sharp edges some walking by could snag on and it's not a passage into the passanger compartment)

 

If rotors/drums are thence enough they can be resurfaced to if rusted over too...

 

It failed inspection because the rot left a whole into the passenger compartment that "could let exhaust gasses in" according to the mechanic... bah... granted, it's also the front right mounting rail of the rear seat but meh... I don't use it as a passenger truck!

 

I'm glad to hear this isn't as big an issue as I was expecting! Hopefully I can get the body fixed up and get her back on the road!

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