wd21overland Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 Hello, I've got a quick question does anyone know whats the difference in centerlinks before 08/92 build date and after. I'm going to replace my center link but every parts store i have gone to ask if my vehicle was build before or after 08/92 and mine was build before and no one has it they all carry the one build after but not before that build date. I've went on rock auto and they also show different parts numbers depending on build date but i see no difference in actual part. Also the price difference is almost double for the before 08/92 there around $160 for the ones built after there $86 Just wondering if anyone one knows there difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 The taper in the holes for the tie rod ends are different. Possibly the taper of the ball joints for the idler/pitman are different too. I would assume they are, or else you would just be able to switch TREs... You should get this anyway: http://www.grassroots4x4.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wd21overland Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 The taper in the holes for the tie rod ends are different. Possibly the taper of the ball joints for the idler/pitman are different too. I would assume they are, or else you would just be able to switch TREs... You should get this anyway: http://www.grassroots4x4.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=3 Hmm so it replaces the ball joints with bolts? does it work alot better then the stock style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 I actually don't have one. But apparently they are much better. I guess the picture doesn't show it very well, but the ball joints are replaced with spherical bearings. You do have to drill out your pitman and idler arms though, which is better done off the truck. Removing the pitman arm can be a bit of a pain. Anyway, just pointing out that possibility, because the cost might not be as big a factor if you were going to spend big bucks on a plain old centrelink. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 (edited) If you buy another stock centerlink, and do even moderate wheeling, you have a good chance of damaging the new one as well. Especially with larger tires. The stock design is terrible and uses a balljoint style system on both the Idler/pitman arms, and tie rods. The issue is that it allows for a large degree of twisting and ends up messing up the centerlink. Grassroots, as you can see replaces the Idler/Pitman arm side to take a bolt, and I have not heard of any issues with the new design ever having a problem once being replaced. With less torsional twisting in the steering, It basically moves the weak point to another area. In this case it would most likely be the Idler Arm. That can be strengthened with an Idler arm brace, and adding some metal bracing to the Idler arm itself. This can be applied to the Pitman arm as well.(there are lots of topics here on that, search) Doing that shifts the weakest link to the Tie Rods where it should be. Bring spares already set to the exact lengths of the currents for both sides, and You wont have a huge issue out on the trail. Don't waste your money on the factory centerlinks. Edited October 10, 2011 by Dowser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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