no power to injectors

[Silver]

so i bought my pathfinder a few months ago and have been in the process of slowly returning it to its former glory, however there is something small broken somewhere and its telling the computer not to pulse the fuel injectors.

 

so far i have:

 

- stripped and cleaned the trottle body

- checked all the fuses

- checked distributor ground

- replaced crank angle sensor

- removed automatic started i found tucked under hood, removed 70ft of burned and useless wire attached to said starter and returned wiring under dash to stock configuration.

- striped and check wiring harness between distributor, ECU, and injectors

- replaced the computer

- rechecked fuses

- and am now trying to find out what readings my air flow sensor should be reading

 

 

all in that order, i.. am.. going... insane *twitch* and broke

 

 

is there any sensors i nave have missed such as a roll over sensor or the like that my tell the computer to shut off if it were faulty. i mean everything else works perfectly. if i pour some gas down the trottle body it will fire up untill the gas is gone so the distributor does have power

[sewebster]

Fuel pressure?

 

When you rotate the distributor by hand (with it removed) and ignition in on position, do the injectors click in sequence?

 

ECU trouble codes?

Edited November 28, 2010 by sewebster

[Silver]

oh right sorry replaced fuel pump first thing; now have 30- 35 psi , and no power to injectors at all unless i used my noid light wrong, tho there is still no clicking

 

truble code is both green and red light flashing together: 1 slow, 2 slow, 3 fast, 4 fast, 5 fast

Edited November 28, 2010 by Silver

[Kingman]

Interesting. Power is constant battery voltage to injectors when the ignition is ON. The ECU gives a reference signal to a "safety" relay (inside the kick panel by the front passenger door, it is orange) and does not power them directly. The relay is activated when it receives the ECU's signal and runs full voltage to the injectors.

 

The pulse signal to the injectors is through ground inside the ECU. Two variable load transistors inside the ECU ground each output to the injector as the need to fire occurs, one two one two one two. The two injector grounding circuits are pins 103 and 104. I believe the power wire to the injectors is white/blue.

 

The distributor it's self is NOT grounded. Power to Crank Angle Sensor is black/white, this is where the ECU gets it's power from. Same with the MAF sensor.

 

The engine does not need the MAF to run. With it malfunctioning or unplugged the ECU will enter "limp mode" and not rev above 2500 RPM. It'll still start otherwise.

[Silver]

so there shouldn't be a ground coming off my distributor, and the plugs connected to the positive battery cable lead go to my injectors?

 

 

well i just learned carb cleaner cans that get to -4 dgrees c will shoot liquid nitrogen ouch my finger o.0

Edited November 28, 2010 by Silver

[sewebster]

truble code is both green and red light flashing together: 1 slow, 2 slow, 3 fast, 4 fast, 5 fast

 

That isn't the trouble code, that's the mode selection menu. Right after it blinks 3 fast, turn the screw back the other way, then record what happens.

[Silver]

i have never been able to find the screw there is nothing next to the toggle switch

[sewebster]

oh, well switch is just as good. Turn ign to on, switch the switch so you get the 1,2,3,4,5 pattern you described, then switch it back after 3. This puts you into mode 3, which tells you the trouble codes. Turn off when you've written it down.

[Silver]

all i got was 5 green, 5 red, ecu working normally. which is odd since the airflow sensor is sitting on the desk next to me

[Silver]

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1481646366745&set=a.1481646206741.2068657.1401416397#!/photo.php?fbid=1481646566750&set=a.1481646206741.2068657.1401416397&pid=31091973&id=1401416397

 

my fb album with pictures of wiring, also is that orange box on the fire wall the kicker box you were talking about?

[sewebster]

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1481646366745&set=a.1481646206741.2068657.1401416397#!/photo.php?fbid=1481646566750&set=a.1481646206741.2068657.1401416397&pid=31091973&id=1401416397

 

my fb album with pictures of wiring, also is that orange box on the fire wall the kicker box you were talking about?

 

Can't see without an account.

[Silver]

http://s1103.photobucket.com/albums/g473/Alex_Leblanc/Fixin%20the%20ol%20pathy/

 

ok hopefully photo bucket will work

[sewebster]

I think I'm pretty much out of ideas... maybe try going through all the component troubleshooting tests (electrical stuff) in the FSM. Is that spade connector on your distributor grounded? I don't think it should be.

[Silver]

yes it is a ground, tho its been there a while and it somehow drove from alberta to here in new brunswick before it stopped working

 

 

 

popped of the ground wire and nothing changed

Edited November 29, 2010 by Silver

[sewebster]

From my investigation of the manual, that spade is supposed to lead to a capacitor and then to 12V. I don't know why. But I doubt it's your problem. I have a couple connectors around there and don't know which one to plug in, but it works regardless. I would try to look into what Kingman posted above and see if you can figure out if that's all working.

[Silver]

ya i will rummage through there tomorrow once my multi meter thaws

[Kingman]

The little wire attached to the distributor won't affect anything if it's removed so it can't be a problem.

 

And the engine needs to be running for the ECU to realize something isn't right.

 

Try these two things if you haven't already: tap in to the white/blue wire coming from the orange relay in the foot well kick panel and see if that shows any voltage with the ignition ON. Pin 114 is the 12V out from the ECU to the relay, which goes to the injectors. Check to see if there's voltage there as well.

 

What exactly are you probing to see if there's voltage to the injectors?

[Silver]

i had just stuck a noid light on the injector wires and had a buddy crank over the engine.

[Kingman]

I'd use a multi-meter if I were you. Those test lights can mess some stuff up pretty easily if the circuit isn't made for high amperage draws, and I wouldn't dare touch a computer circuit with one.

 

Which injector wires?

[Silver]

right off the top of the injectors, lol you can tell rebuilding engines is my area of forte not the wiring

[Silver]

are there any relays that would fail and stop the power? the fusable link is fine, and i cant find the orange box