How hard is it to do wheel bearings?

[MadManMike]

Hey guys,

 

So my rear rotors need to be machined (they are pretty scarred up), and I thought while I have to take the wheels off and the break stuff I might as well repack/replace my wheel bearings. I want to do my front wheel bearings also (one of them is Squeaking pretty bad). Just curious if all 4 could be done in a day by someone who has never done it before Or if it's something I should leave to the pro's. Also how much different is the front compared to the back? with all the hub stuff?

 

Just as an FYI I got my exhaust done with 2.5" pipe and magnaflow muffler/CAT sounds soooo good! Also I will be making up a "how to" here shortly about the dreaded "click click click start" problem that is common with nissans (I found a ghetto way to fix it ).

 

-Mike

Edited August 27, 2010 by MadManMike

[Dowser]

The wheel bearings are very simple and shouldn't pose you too much trouble. You'll want a FSM handy though so I suggest downloading it from the forums. Before you start, you'll want to have not only the wheel bearings you need, but also some new seals, a bit of wire, and pick up some wheel bearing grease.

 

You'll have to remove your auto locking hubs, Calipers,(don't let the calipers just hang down by the brake lines, Tie the calipers up with the wire so there is no tension on the brake line. Unless you want to replace those too.) and since your removing your rotors, its wise to loosen the bolts that attach them to the hub while the calipers are still on and you can have someone step on the brakes to avoid the rotors from turning.

 

When removing the bearing cups, remember to use a Brass drift/punch or a piece of wood like a broom handle and alternate around while hitting. Obviously clean everything up for reassembly. I know, a no brainer.

 

When installing the bearing cups, you'll want something to use that will keep the cup centered while pushing it in. Also something that will not damage the surface that the rollers will be running on. If while hammering if goes in on an angle, you'll damage something so dont try and hammer one side then the other to get it in. I also suggest buying a dead blow hammer. Probably one of the BEST tools you can buy that wont damage your components.

 

To fill the new bearings with grease, put a glob of grease in your palm, take the bearing in the other hand and grip it with a few fingers and thumb with your fingers going thru the center. The bearings are tapered and make sure the smaller side is facing knuckles up. Then what you want to do is dig the grease out of your palm into edge of the bearing rollers using a little grease at a time, repeating the motion until you see grease start coming out the top of bearing, then rotate it a bit more and continue until the WHOLE bearing is filled up. Once that's done add a little more to the outside of the bearing.

 

Don't forget the seal if your doing the inner wheel bearings before putting everything back together. You'll also want to be putting some grease inside the hub area between the 2 bearings. The FSM will show you when you download it.

 

When installing the new rotors back on get them as tight as you can by yourself, then once you get it back on the steering knuckle, and you have the caliper back on,(remember to be careful when pushing the caliper pistons back in that you don't push fluid out of the reservoir in the engine bay. Brake fluid eats paint quickly. you can use a C-Clamp for this) I would again have someone hold the brake so you can tighten them up to torque specs. I would suggest new pads as well if your machining your rotors or buying new ones because the pads will have grooves in them.

 

When installing the outside bearing there is a preload procedure that needs to be done. Its basically Tighten the nut while rotating the rotor to a certain Torque spec, then backing it off about a 1/4 turn. Again FSM will have info on this. Lastly, when installing the locking mechanism for that nut you just torqued and backed off, if your trying to line up the holes to attach the screws to it and they don't line up, move the nut looser not tighter until they match.

 

You'll obviously have to bleed the brakes as well.

 

This covers the fronts.

Edited August 28, 2010 by Dowser

[Cuong Nguyen]

The rear wheel bearing really shouldn't need replacing unless you have super excessive wear like having the pumpkin super low in gear oil and or it being filled with water. Other way it'll wear is from high mileage say a million or so miles. Even so the wear would probably be negligible.

 

But if you need want to replace the rear wheel bearings. You'll need access to a press and a fabbed tool or the factory made tool to press them bearings off the axle shafts. Basically, disconnect the brake lines, unbolt the backing plate and pull the entire axle shafts out.

[Kingman]

Good description Dowser, I need to do mine too. My passenger side is squealing like crazy as well...

[Kyle94]

Good description Dowser, I need to do mine too. My passenger side is squealing like crazy as well...

i wonder if that could possibly be what is "sqwealing" all the time... no matter the speed or wheel turned...

[MadManMike]

i wonder if that could possibly be what is "sqwealing" all the time... no matter the speed or wheel turned...

 

My passenger side front wheel squeals at random times, sometimes it will be for an hour or so straight. Then it will stop, not do it for a week and then do it for a week straight. I have concluded that it cant be anything but the wheel bearing.

 

Dowser! you rock bro. That is exactly what I needed to know, I think I am going to attempt it next weekend. Might take some pics to go along with Dowser's write-up. I guess I didn't know that the rear wheels don't need to be done, I was just thinking that if I had to remove the rear rotors I might as well. I mean they aren't making any noise so I am sure they are fine.

 

-Mike

Edited August 28, 2010 by MadManMike