ruggs Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 Hi I have an 87 Pathy w/ V6. Here is my problem.... WHen I start it up when cold it bogs for a second then idles at 2000 rpm, then it will start dropping to 1100 and then back up to 2000rpm almost like the egine dies then pickups up again. Once it warms up it stays to around 1500 rpm and it idles lumpy and kind of makes a sputtering noise out of the exhaust. But when i hit the gas and when I am driving it feels fine and doesn't miss or anything. WTF is the problem with this POS? I checked the computer and it said CAS is toast but I swapped in another distributor and it did the same thing!!! SO I think it was an old code or something. THe engine light was never on. Any ideas ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanPerson Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 I'd start with the coil type thing (although I think it's called somethin different in Pathfinders) O2 sensor maybe, plug wires, plugs, air filter...it's tought to tell, you know what you've replaced recently...fuel filter possibly...it could really be a lot of things in my opinion. I'd just start doing the good old process of elimination and I bet within $500 of parts you'll have it running like a 2007 . Someone else probably has a more precise idea but that's how I'd start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruggs Posted September 26, 2004 Author Share Posted September 26, 2004 No , I can't see it being any of those being the problem. The truck has done this since I bought it. Plugs, wires, rotor etc, would not create these problems. I have plenty of vacuum so I don;t think it's a vacuum leak thing. Like I said, it seems like it is missing at idle but not under load when I am driving it. There has got to be someone in this forum that has an idea............ :sniff: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 27, 2004 Share Posted September 27, 2004 When you replaced the distributor, did you clear the codes from the ECU? It could be that the computer is still compensating for the bad CAS from the old distributor, and hasn't "realized" that you put in another one. Just a thought..... Just disconnect the battery for 10 minutes or so to reset the computer, and see if that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted September 27, 2004 Share Posted September 27, 2004 Your wax choke may be sticking. It's a common problem on the VG30i engine. The wax choke has two coolant lines going to it on the front of the TBI and has a plunger that should move freely until the engine is heated up. I had to mess with mine until I simply removed it totally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruggs Posted September 29, 2004 Author Share Posted September 29, 2004 @!*%e!! Could the fact that I didn't reset the ecu make it not realize that there is another distributor in there?? if that's true, that pisse me off!! can anybody vouch for that idea? If so maybe I'll try that dist. again. I will also check that wax choke. Also, I think I may have a burnt valve. At idle it's really lumpy and produces a sort of puffing sound out the exhaust. When I am driving thoug it seems fine...............WHO KNOWS!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatterHorn Posted September 29, 2004 Share Posted September 29, 2004 I had that problem for a while, and all I had to do was re-adjust the thermo-element so that throttle cam was in the correct position while warm, and while cold. it isn't really hard to do, and you will most likely need to readjust your idle as well ... just make sure that your truck has been warmed up to normal opperating temp before you make the adjustment, and if full adjustment is not possible you will need to replace the thermo element. there are alignment marks on the fast idle throttle cam which need to be lined up while warm - there should be a mark labeled "A" which needs to be lined up to about the middle of the roller that is on the throttle lever. there is a small adjustment screw located at the top, which may have a small black cap on it. simply remove the cap, and adjust until they line up - be sure the truck is warm... then adjust your idle then you should check to see that the fast idle selenoid is properly adjusted. you can do this once the above is done, by running your engine, then turn on the blower fan from inside, and you should see that the RPM goes up about 150 - 300 RPM or so ... if it does not or moves too much, you can adjust the fast idle by turning the dash pot on the passanger side of the throttle body Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruggs Posted September 30, 2004 Author Share Posted September 30, 2004 What does the thermo element look like? What does the fast idle throttle cam look like. I haven;t messed around with Nissan tbi's at all so I need all the help I can get. I will take a look though. Another question though, if I had a bad plug would it be posssible for it to still fire at higher rpms but not at idle? I am starting to think I may have a burnt valve becuase of the rough idle and puffing sound coming out of the exhaust at idle. Keep the info coming guys, I appreciate it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatterHorn Posted September 30, 2004 Share Posted September 30, 2004 there are two cams coming out of the front of the TBI - the top, smaller one is the fast idle cam. the bottom one is the thottle cam... to the right of the fast idle cam is a dashpot looking thing, that has two hoses attached to it - these run coolant through it, and in turn heat the thermo-element and cause it to expand, thus retarding the throttle as it warms up ... I seriously doubt that you have a burnt valve, as the engine would have to have been run extremely lean to burn a valve... and that puffing sound ... I almost guaruntee that it is a result of your idle not being set correctly ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruggs Posted September 30, 2004 Author Share Posted September 30, 2004 i will try all that. Thanks for the info. Here's another question while I am here.... When I take my airfilter out and close up the aircleaner assembly say to pass aircare, my motor idles really low and wants to stall. That doesn;t seem normal to me at all since I have done that to other vehicles to put them thru aircare. Maybe this another indication of a problem. I just thought I'd mention it. cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruggs Posted September 30, 2004 Author Share Posted September 30, 2004 OK, I adjusted the fast idle cam, it was way out of adjustment if your info is correct and I'm sure it is. So now my truck runs at 1000 rpm at idle when warm which is better than 1500 like it was, but it is still puffing and idling lumpy. WTF could that be? I can't see it being the idle being out of adjustment that is making my motor sound like it has a burnt valve...... When I was manually operating the throttle with my hands I got a mjor shock from the motor. My hand was against the dist. cap but it shouldn't shock me like that should it? Unless I have a bad wire? the cap is new. Could this be causing that puffing sound ie. a dead cylinder at idle but enough juice to fire the cylinder at higher rpms? Please help me!!! Timing is set at 14 degrees instead of 12 degrees because it ran better before at that setting. I'm sure 2 degrees would be causing this problem either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruggs Posted September 30, 2004 Author Share Posted September 30, 2004 I am going to get another set of wires to see if that helps. I should also check the plugs while iam in there just to make sure they are fooked. I never looked at them in the 5 months since I've owned the truck. By the way, now that my truck idles at 1000 rpms at warm, the oil pressure gauge reads 0!!!!! That's not a good thing. And that's with 20w50 in there!!! I also found a cut vacuum line coming from what looks to be my cruise control. What is it supposed to be hooked up tp and where? I have a feeling there may be a vaccuum leak somewhere because of that but I haven't found it yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatterHorn Posted September 30, 2004 Share Posted September 30, 2004 there should be a vacuum line between the aircleaner and the egr valve I believe that has a T in it that the cruise control should hook into ... also in regards to that shock, a bad wire or a boot would definately cause that and should be replaced ... and as for the air filter, if you took it out, and the idle fell, that would indicate a vacuum leak ... it wouldn't be a bad idea to just replace all of them ... a quick way to find a leak in the vacuum is to take a can of hair spray, and spray some quick shots around various locations of the throttle body - if the idle jumps a little, then you have a vacuum leak somewhere in the area that you sprayed ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruggs Posted September 30, 2004 Author Share Posted September 30, 2004 I will check for that vacuum-t and I am about to put the new wires on. I'll keep ya posted. That vacuum leak would make my idle lumpy adnd make the puffing chugging sound though would it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruggs Posted September 30, 2004 Author Share Posted September 30, 2004 Its fixed!!!! It's never runs this good. Thanks Matterhorm and company for the info. It was a combination of a bad wire, 2 vacuum leaks and and the fast idle being way out of adjustment. The previous owner must have totally focked with it. Cheers guys, now I don;t want to sell it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatterHorn Posted October 1, 2004 Share Posted October 1, 2004 glad to have been able to help ... keep us posted of any other changes ... and possible upcoming upgrades! :cool2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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