XJ Long Arm Kit

[Balmer]

Hey everyone, this is basically a break away from my SAS thread. I'm getting a built waggy D44 front for my SAS and it has brackets welded on for an XJ long arm set-up already. I'm thinking if I can make it work without spending a fortune I'd rather go that way than radius arms. Has anyone done this mod yet? Heard of it being done? I'm planning on using frame brackets rather than adapting the XJ cross member since the 'Finder is full frame. Hopefully buying the arms only will save me some $$$ over buying the whole kit. Any input is appreciated!

[885SPD]

Most Jeep XJ or TJ or ZJ long arms are typically a radius arm type set up. The upper arm is attached to the lower arm making it a radius arm setup. Thats the reason I don't use long arms on my Jeeps! Because as the suspension drops the knuckles do not retain their caster and when the tire turns it puts unusual force on the ball joints and tie rod ends! Hence people blame axle strength when the actual problem is they have no idea about suspension and steering geometry! If you are using a 4 or 5 link long arm then go for it! You will still need to make some custom brackets for the frame! Keep in mind that every suspension kit is developed for each individual vehicle, in other words, wheel base, track width and center of gravity! You will need to calculate these before you start, otherwise you might have some very bad on road experiences, such as severe brake dive bump steer and major roll on acceleration! If you need help PM me, I can help you wit the link set up! To help you look at a couple of link programs! I use a program called link-calc don't know if it's still around though. Good luck!

[Balmer]

Most Jeep XJ or TJ or ZJ long arms are typically a radius arm type set up. The upper arm is attached to the lower arm making it a radius arm setup. Thats the reason I don't use long arms on my Jeeps! Because as the suspension drops the knuckles do not retain their caster and when the tire turns it puts unusual force on the ball joints and tie rod ends! Hence people blame axle strength when the actual problem is they have no idea about suspension and steering geometry! If you are using a 4 or 5 link long arm then go for it! You will still need to make some custom brackets for the frame! Keep in mind that every suspension kit is developed for each individual vehicle, in other words, wheel base, track width and center of gravity! You will need to calculate these before you start, otherwise you might have some very bad on road experiences, such as severe brake dive bump steer and major roll on acceleration! If you need help PM me, I can help you wit the link set up! To help you look at a couple of link programs! I use a program called link-calc don't know if it's still around though. Good luck!

 

Ya, I know that mounting the upper link to the lower effectively makes it a radius arm. I just figured the XJ set-up might be the best possible radius arm to go with. I have a set of radius arms from a '79 F-150 that will work. I'm trying to keep things as cheap as is reasonable. Lots of guys have done radius arm suspensions on 'Finders without too many issues. I know that ultimately, linked is the way to go and I would love to do that but I fear the cost involved. I've checked into the Poly Performance universal link kits - that's what I'd love to hook up but $$$$! Even just Johnny joints alone are very expensive, so I'm not sure I'd save much by fabbing my own link set-up. If you have a program I could play with I would be very appreciative! I plan on doing a long arm version of the 5 link rear, but it's a pretty cheap one - you can get the link from my SAS thread - so it would be great for that! What do you think, are there any other approaches I could take with a link system that would save money?

[87pathy]

i woud definatey go with that setu vs the ford radius arms.

[885SPD]

Kits are great but you can piece together the kit for way cheaper than that! Have a look at:

 

Ruffstuffspecialties.com

 

And if you like Johnny Type joints check out

 

trail-gear.com

 

Also for tubing consult

 

chassisshop.com

 

You can put it all together! Send me some specs on your Pathy! Height, tire size you want to run and width of the front and rear axles! Also if you can send me total weight with all of your camping gear and such like, also the front weight and rear seperatly! If you can get me those specs I can design you a link system!

 

Simon

[Balmer]

Ya, clearly it's a better arm, and there are other, custom arms available too. The thing is, any aftermarket radius arm set-up I've found since starting this thread is between $600.00 - $700.00 CAD. For that kind of cash I think I'd whole whole hog and do a custom 3 link. Since I'm going cheap for now I'm going to stick with the F-150's personally. Have you checked into other arms? How much longer is the XJ long arm, generally speaking? Do you think the geometry is better over the stock Ford arms?

[885SPD]

Geometry can be fully set by the adjustment of the upper link on the XJ long arm! It is much longer than the F150 arm and you would get much better flex depending on the design! An XJ long arm is expensive as well! I have no problem with Short arm systems, in fact I have built a 2004 TJ with a ramp travel index on a 30 degree ramp of 850 and it is short arm, also rides very well! Lots of options to consider!

 

Simon

[885SPD]

Rough Country has just come out with a long arm that's cheap and well built. Never thought I would say this but it might be worth using a long arm after all at that price!

 

Simon

[Balmer]

I'll check the price on the R.C. arms, but I'm thinking I'll just build my own. I think I can do a better job than what I've seen offered by most aftermaket companies and for less $$$. Check out my SAS thread for more details.