92Pathmaker Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 It's time to replace all of the suspension parts that I have destroyed wheeling. Ball joints, tie rods, pitman arm. Pretty much anything on ebay i'm sure will be junk. I have been looking at RockAuto and think that I will probably go with the Spicer pro grade. What seems to hold up the best to wheeling with a 3" lift? Thanks for any input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 Hooha centerlink (grassroots4x4.com). Start there and consider an idler arm brace, then do the tie rod ends, ball joints and appropriate bushings. Good to go!! Oh, probably a steering stabilizer too... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 x2 on the hoohaa!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Pathmaker Posted June 6, 2009 Author Share Posted June 6, 2009 I have an L&P center link and a steering stabilizer. I was wondering what ball joints and tie rod ends have worked well. I have seen the ball joints from $20 to $60 and want to know if it is worth it to spend the extra money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Pathmaker Posted June 6, 2009 Author Share Posted June 6, 2009 (edited) I also just got some Skyjacker nitro shocks and they are too fat for the Calmini UCAs. Is there a problem with grinding the control arm for clearance? Edited June 7, 2009 by 92Pathmaker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 Sorry, didn't read your signature and now I understand your question... Moog is pretty good and I have used some Beck/Arnley components without complaint. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 I also just got some Super Lift nitro shocks and they are too fat for the Calmini UCAs. Is there a problem with grinding the control arm for clearance? this was brought up on N4W. If I was home I'd link the tread. I also called calmini to inquire with them about it... anyway the guy had talked with a tech from calmini who said removing 1/2" of material from the radius for the shock should still maintain its strength. ... I called aske for that tech (his name evades me, but its in the tread) but he was not there. they said they have no record of any such incedent.(calmini denting ranchos) or fix for the incedent and that I should use stock, calmini or other narrow brand of shock untill I am sure there are no other isses because modifying the UCA will void any kind of waranty or replacement they might have offered if something was amiss. every thing is good so far, I'll give it a few more months but I will eventually make the 1/2" cut as well when I go to install rancho's. I am not too concerned with loosing waranty/replacment services since I hear they like to wash their hands of you as soon as they put postage on your box.(can't loose what you didn't have). From a structural standpoint I cannot see removing 1/2" from ONLY that radius having too much effet on the UCA that is already pretty overbuilt. Their powdercoating is pretty weak too(prolly from poor material prep) so I will be having them stripped, cleaned and re-coated after I make the cut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted June 7, 2009 Share Posted June 7, 2009 (edited) see, this is why you get the cheaper Rough Country's, and get free set of shocks with them Do you like the nitro? i can get either nitro's or hydro's, but idk :S Edited June 7, 2009 by OldSlowReliable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Pathmaker Posted June 7, 2009 Author Share Posted June 7, 2009 I took off 1/2 to 3/4" on the side that contacts the shock. I used a torch and cleaned it up with a grinder. Now there is 1/4 inch of clearance throughout the whole range. I didn't take a picture but I have to do the other side and I will try to take an after pic to post I like the Nitro shocks, they have a good feel and should be more durable driving fast on bad roads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted June 7, 2009 Share Posted June 7, 2009 I took off 1/2 to 3/4" on the side that contacts the shock. I used a torch and cleaned it up with a grinder. Now there is 1/4 inch of clearance throughout the whole range. I didn't take a picture but I have to do the other side and I will try to take an after pic to post I like the Nitro shocks, they have a good feel and should be more durable driving fast on bad roads. I have not yet looked into where it contacts the shock, but its the backside of the radius cutout right? Pictures would be much appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Pathmaker Posted June 26, 2009 Author Share Posted June 26, 2009 Here are the pics. I've gone wheeling a couple times since and There appears to be a least 1/4 inch clearance the whole range of motion. Contact Points Cut Line After Cut Flex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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