calibeater Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 ok, my 88 has never felt like it has full power compared to my old 89, the 88 has no low end at all. and if its cold or hot or anything, at idle or while driving if i hit the throttle fast is almost stalls. once its warmed up it idles fine and at the right speed but i just dont feel i am getting all my power and that it feels like its running really rich. what could be the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 does it smell rich? could be the injectors... you can also clean your MAF and replace your 02 sensor just incase I'm on my 3rd set of injectors (don't buy python). each failure led to a rich condidion (or worse w/ the pythons) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 ^ Like he said, but hold off on replacing the O2 sensor just yet. Run some injector cleaner (I prefer Lucas) When was the last tune up (cap, rotor,plugs,wires,timing,fuel filter,air filter,etc) ? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calibeater Posted January 23, 2009 Author Share Posted January 23, 2009 (edited) well the was some corosion on the cap and rotor yesterday when i looked so i sanded it down (no money at this exact moment for parts, but soon) and i pulled the plugs to see how they looked. strangly they looked pretty good. no carbon build up, light tan core, no oil or anything. i did not get to pul all of them though. i have dirt packed around alot of them so much that a spark plug socket wont ever grab so i need to clean those out pretty soon. and the wires i dont think are very old at all. air filter is clean and fuel may be a lil old but still should be decent. now i just fired it up and let it warm up a bit. but when i reved it up a lil a couple times it back fired out the throttle body (i had air filter assembly off and was reving it from under the hood). then i tried doing a full rev to redline just to see what it would do, it did it fine, maybe a lil slow but not too horrible but when i let off and the tach was goin down it went all the way down and my vehicle stalled. oh and is the MAF the plug on the drivers side of the throttle body? Edited January 23, 2009 by calibeater Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 yes, drivers side. be gentle witth the wires inside the sensor. A q-tip and little alchol and a gentle wipe should do. how's your spark timing? the TBI motors are sopposed to run @ 12 BTDC. If thats correct and it sitll dies after you let it down form a rev try ajusting you"dash-pot" I think its called. this controlls how fast it drops in revs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calibeater Posted January 24, 2009 Author Share Posted January 24, 2009 well i actually payed a shop to do my timing once since i dont have a gun and no one has ever showed me how to do it so for all i know they could have done a @!*% job on my timing. and it doesnt always die after a rev like that just when its cold and some rare occasions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 (edited) I think A timing light can be aqquired for 10-20 bucks @ the parts store. the process is fairly simple; look at your harmonic balancer (your main pulley) there should be tick marks on it. mark the fist one(which is 0 degrees) with a bright color paint pen each mark clockwise from there is 5 degrees. mark 10 and 15 degrees for reference. start enggine and let it warm up, hook the light up to the battery and the 3rd wire w/ the clip goes over the #1 spark wire, pay attention to the arrow on the clip (usually points towards plug not cap) with the engine warm A/c and all other electrical compnents off point the light down @ the harmonic balancer. there will be a tab or arrow sticking out from your timing cover that hovers over this wheel. If the light makes it appear centered between your reference marks you should be ok. if its not losten the screw @ the base of your distributor and turn it one way or the other untill the timimg is correct. carefully tigthen it, it may try to turn as you do so. rev the engine a few times and double check the reading. ALL THE WHILE BE CAREFULL OF MOVING PARTS THE LIGHT WILL MAKE THEM APPEAR STATIONARY. Edited January 24, 2009 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calibeater Posted January 24, 2009 Author Share Posted January 24, 2009 cool, i think i will try that one of these days, but would that really make it feel like its runnin rich? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 cool, i think i will try that one of these days, but would that really make it feel like its runnin rich? I belive its possible; poor timing can = incomplete burn of fuel. does the exhuast smell like gas? Have you run any ecu tests? (search "self diagnostic") do you have a multimeeter? You could unplug your injector harness(its above the rt hand valve cover) and ohm the injectors. they should be ~1.5 ohm; test them dead cold or your results may vary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 25, 2009 Share Posted January 25, 2009 Timing generally won't produce a running too rich scenario. If your plugs look right, I'm guessing you aren't running rich. Probably vacuum or intake sensor related. As MY1 said, have you checked the ECU for codes?? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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