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Pathy idling erratically - when clutch down, idle is high


BobLoblaw
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Recently my Pathy has been idling erratically. It seems to be idling high when I change gears - like it's revving too high. It seems to be coming down slow (RPMs) when the gas is pressed at a red light with the clutch down then released. I believe that I have been having some IACV problems, especially when really cold. Could this part be the problem? When replacing this part do I need a gasket? Will the car run properly if I unplug the IACV?

 

Thanks

Edited by BobLoblaw
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IF the IACV is bad it probably wont run any different than right now if you unplug it. There is a gasket on it and none of the parts stores could get it when I changed mine. I just made one. Buy yourself some of that gasket material that every auto parts store has and carefully trace and cut using the old one as a template.

 

Have you tested the IACV? You can pull the plug that is by the oil filler cap and test the continuity of the solenoid in the valve. IIRC it should read 10 ohms. That will tell you if it is good electrically, but not mechanically. It is the only plug in that cluster there that has two wires. I belive they are orange and black. There is the possibility that there is a chunk of crap in there too, so pull it apart and inspect it. From your symptoms it sounds like it is sort of working but maybe just sticking or in need of lubrication.

 

hope this helps

 

indigent.

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just a thought, if the idle increases when you push the cluch your tranny oil may be too thick. If this is the case I'll bet it also creeps foward in neutral when your on flatpavement with the brake off.

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IF the IACV is bad it probably wont run any different than right now if you unplug it. There is a gasket on it and none of the parts stores could get it when I changed mine. I just made one. Buy yourself some of that gasket material that every auto parts store has and carefully trace and cut using the old one as a template.

 

Have you tested the IACV? You can pull the plug that is by the oil filler cap and test the continuity of the solenoid in the valve. IIRC it should read 10 ohms. That will tell you if it is good electrically, but not mechanically. It is the only plug in that cluster there that has two wires. I belive they are orange and black. There is the possibility that there is a chunk of crap in there too, so pull it apart and inspect it. From your symptoms it sounds like it is sort of working but maybe just sticking or in need of lubrication.

 

hope this helps

 

indigent.

 

 

I'll get on it soon. What's strange, is that the idle stays high between shifts, or if I rev it when stopped even when the engine is warm!! How do I check the wire going to the IACV (Ohms-wise)?

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I sorta have this problem with my 95 and have had it for a few years now (well 2 years it sat mostly) on cold mornings it idles hgiht (this is to warm it up) but sometimes at stoplights after its warmed up it'll idle at 2K and when you first punch the gas the idle will drop 200-300 RPM them pick itself back up

 

I have had an CES (SES) light on periodically and I have pulled codes for "EGR Function" I have yet to check anything out...sorry that doesnt really help but i think its pretty much the same thing you're describing

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys, I just wanted to add some info on this:

 

I noticed that my engine temp indicator, which has always worked, has now started to rise, then fall when I'm idling, only to rise again when driving. What's causing this new, and annoying behavior?

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