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Top-end Rebuild... Won't Idle


Dabel
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So long story short... Finished the top-end rebuild on my 90 v6, no warping or cracking on the heads due to the profound overheat it experienced as luck would have it, minor scoring in the number four cylinder but nothing to write home about. New gaskets and seals all around, new 300zx exhaust studs on the manifold, timing belt, everything looking pretty clean and keen in general.

 

So everythings all back together.... Blub blub blub blub blub. Blub blub blub blub blub. Won't start. Try it again, won't start but really sounds like it's trying to catch. So I give it a bit of throttle. Catches and dies. Give it a bit more throttle. Starts and runs. I rev it low for a while trying not to over-do it while the new gaskets are setting in (trying not to keel over from the exhaust and burning gasket in the tiny little cracker box of a garage I borrowed to do the job, my house and garage being 45minutes away from the break down and me too cheap for a tow).

 

So I rev it low like that til she's good and warm then take my foot off the gas. Blub blub blub... Blub... Blub... Cough. Dead. Start it up again. Can't resist the urge to rev it a little higher. I do... Purrrfection, revs like a bi*ch, sounds gooood. A big ol vroom, no weirdness, good news yeah? Still won't f-ing idle.

 

Been over everything, computer reads a code 55, no vacuum leaks, EGR diaphragm has good action, everythings torqued to spec and tighter than a nuns you-know what. Plugs look good, number 1 cylinder compression a little low but nothing to be alarmed about.

 

Little pissed off cuz if this was a carburated engine i'd whip its little hiney. Fuel injection, emissions b.s. and computerized whitsits be damned!

 

Any suggestions?

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timing? maybe the dizzy is like 90deg out...check that...i put mine back together once 180 out...

 

 

Thanks man, but aside from being fairly careful about such things (kinda hard to do the full engine timing otherwise) I've also hit it with a timing light. Can't time it out perfect til I get it running properly but it's well within where it should be.

 

Appreciate the input though...

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Thanks man, but aside from being fairly careful about such things (kinda hard to do the full engine timing otherwise) I've also hit it with a timing light. Can't time it out perfect til I get it running properly but it's well within where it should be.

 

Appreciate the input though...

 

One thing to remember is to NEVER trust those timing marks until you have verified them yourself. I did almost all of the same stuff you have done on my last pathy and came to find out that someone had disassembled the crankshaft pulley and put it back together wrong!@#$!@!. Verify with your own eyes that the rotor is in the #1 position when the piston is up. You never know what a previous owner has done to the rig.

 

Other than that, check the vacuum lines. I had mixed some up when I re-assembled, and it wouldn't idle correctly and didn't throw codes. Get out that vacuum line diagram from the FSM and follow every hose to make sure they are going where they are supposed to. Don't forget about the little bastard back on the fuel pressure regulator by the #6 spark plug.

 

It really sounds like a vac line in the wrong place.

 

indigent.

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One thing to remember is to NEVER trust those timing marks until you have verified them yourself. I did almost all of the same stuff you have done on my last pathy and came to find out that someone had disassembled the crankshaft pulley and put it back together wrong!@#$!@!. Verify with your own eyes that the rotor is in the #1 position when the piston is up. You never know what a previous owner has done to the rig.

 

Other than that, check the vacuum lines. I had mixed some up when I re-assembled, and it wouldn't idle correctly and didn't throw codes. Get out that vacuum line diagram from the FSM and follow every hose to make sure they are going where they are supposed to. Don't forget about the little bastard back on the fuel pressure regulator by the #6 spark plug.

 

It really sounds like a vac line in the wrong place.

 

indigent.

I timed the whole engine including reinstallation of the alternator with #1 on TDC, then reinstalled the cap with the rotor facing the number one cable position so it's not really a question of trust at this point, fairly intimate with it in general after all we've been through.

 

As far as vacuum lines, everything was labeled as removed and reinstalled the same way, seated (and clamped) the bitchy little hoses behind number 6 on the intake myself with no little effort. It's all pretty much where it should be, or at least where it was before disassembly. Thought of checking the vacuum diagrams as well but seems mute as it ran before it all went to h-e-double hockey sticks in a handbasket.

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dunno if yours is an auto or not or has CC....... but king ran great, but wouldn't idle after i did the injector change.... it was the CC cable had somehow got tightened during the whole intake removal process, and when i adjusted it. presto. smooooooooooooooooooooooooth idle.

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dunno if yours is an auto or not or has CC....... but king ran great, but wouldn't idle after i did the injector change.... it was the CC cable had somehow got tightened during the whole intake removal process, and when i adjusted it. presto. smooooooooooooooooooooooooth idle.

Regretfully got the auto...

 

Thanks though!

 

Not sure exactly how much more frustrated I can get, but I'm pretty well there I believe.

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