T-bar crank

[ILoveMyPatty]

Well, today I finally got fed up with looking at my Pathy with 32's and seeing a 1" space between the tires and front fenders. Off to NPORA to print out 88's T-bar re-indexing topic. Outside I go, back the Pathy into the shop and got to work... and within 3.5 hours I'd gained 3" of lift. It was a pain in the arse doin' it, but I got er done. The pass. side adjuster wouldn't come free from the t-bar and the whole thing was moving... I took a look at where it goes into the LCA, and it was coming out of the arm. I marked it there, removed the t-bar, and moved it 2 splines. The drivers side adjuster came free from the t-bar, so that was cool. I ended up moving both t-bars 2 splines, and cranking the bolt down. Now, there's 3/4-1" of a gap between the UCA and the bumstop, and I've gained 3" of height. Pretty cool, I thought that with the 3" of height, the UCA would be touching or at least really close to the bumpstop.. The gap I have should be fine, yes? Now the Pathy sits level, and thanks 88 for the writeup. I bow at your feet

[dagwoodzz]

:worthless:

 

It's not worthless, are you still running stock UCA's? Rumor is you can't get good alignment without them because they're too short. I got mine used for $75-100 bucks, can't remember.

[ILoveMyPatty]

My digi cam broke, so I wont be able to get pics for a long time. Heh. It's really nothing special right now... haha. Yeah, still stock UCA's, but the alignment doesn't seem to be off that much actually.

[MY1PATH]

... I thought that with the 3" of height, the UCA would be touching or at least really close to the bumpstop.. The gap I have should be fine, yes? Now the Pathy sits level, and thanks 88 for the writeup. I bow at your feet

3/4 to 1" uca bumpstop gap is good, that way you still have some downtravel.

the reason you didn't hit after craninkg 3" out of the t-bar is bcause they have sagged from age so your first 1" was prolly back up to stock and the other 2" is just more .

 

as for the alignement issue take one of your uca blolts out and bring it to a bolt shop or specialty hardware store ( using a diferant vehicle of course) and get 4 longer bolts so that the alignment shop has enough bolt to give you a proper alignement. about a 1/4" longer should be enough (thats what I got) I don't know how long you can go b4 bottoming out on something.

anyway 4 of these should run you about 30 bucks, put them in yourself and the alignment shop should be able to get you aligned just fine.

[LandShark]

3/4 to 1" uca bumpstop gap is good, that way you still have some downtravel.

the reason you didn't hit after craninkg 3" out of the t-bar is bcause they have sagged from age so your first 1" was prolly back up to stock and the other 2" is just more .

 

as for the alignement issue take one of your uca blolts out and bring it to a bolt shop or specialty hardware store ( using a diferant vehicle of course) and get 4 longer bolts so that the alignment shop has enough bolt to give you a proper alignement. about a 1/4" longer should be enough (thats what I got) I don't know how long you can go b4 bottoming out on something.

anyway 4 of these should run you about 30 bucks, put them in yourself and the alignment shop should be able to get you aligned just fine.

 

I believe the bolts you will want are m14 1.50 pitch 70mm long. These are the bolts I just used to fix my alignment.

[ILoveMyPatty]

Alrighty, sounds good everyone. I took 'er on some minor offroad today, about 20 miles of harsh roads, so I'm going to measure each side and crank it up to where it was, or make it even now. The pass side is sitting a little bit lower, about 1/2".