Ok, I got my new rims/tires in..installed them

[NaturaTek]

Got the procomp rockcrawler rims 15x8 3.75backspacing and 31bfgs. Put them on, Everything is well, except for front 'rubbing' when I turn. It sounds like if you have a shovel and you shovel a scoop of snow, that same sound effect.

 

So I started to turn until I hear the noise then I park and look. I have stock fender flares on pathy, and it looks like it might be rubbing/scraping against the back of the front flares. Or is that scrape noise coming from somewhere else?

 

Other than that, everything rocks. The procomp rock rims did in fact come with center caps. Basic chrome looking, no logos. But the dang front center caps are hollow. You can see the hub thru. I'm sure they sell some center cap covers or something. I'll check pepboys.

 

4wheelparts.com did in fact mount the tires and balanced them. The balance weights are in the inner side, which doesnt show. Don't know why all tire balance places doesnt use this method. They also came inflated. You literally just mount them on pathy. For me, they shipped via a freight company called R&L freight. Took about 4 business days. I was scheduled for friday, but noticed they had it Thursday. I called the freight company directly and asked if I pick it up myself today can I get them. They had no probs.

 

Drove up there, cut them out of the shrinkwrap on top of a skid , threw em in back of pathy and left.

 

One thing I am happy about, I can drive 60-65 (havent tried faster yet )and no more vibrations like the truck was gonna come apart, I was always limited to 55-57 with acceptable vibration. The mixed match set I had before maybe sucked or simply had a super sucky balancing done. Also don't skid like before.

 

Should I remove the front flares, or all flares? I need to get some kind of small lift done, but might have to wait till 2months.

 

I was googling and said new tires should be breaking in by driving "500 easy miles". Hmm they do ok so far, but they'll have to break in over time with everyday driving.

Correct tire maintenance is rotate every 7,000 or 10,000 miles for bfgs?

 

Happy, just hope that noise don't mean I'm gonna break my tire fluids (yeah dont try to get me with that one) I'll take photo after this wet iced snow here.

Thanks for help

Edited December 15, 2007 by NaturaTek

[Simon]

The reason you're rubbing, is because the backspacing on those rims is different than stock. It's not uncommon for that to happen. Get out your x-acto knife, and trim away the part of the flare it's rubbing on.

 

Oh, and I don't know if they sell center cap - caps. You may just have to order 2 new rear caps. Or keep the ones you have, as you may want them if you ever get manual hubs.

[Charlie]

:worthless:

[jj big shoe]

Pep Boys is the only chain auto parts store around here that stock center caps that I've seen. Get a couple sets 'cause they'll rust up really quick in a Jersey winter. You could also order a plastic set (no rust) thru summitracing.com or American Racing's website if you'd like.

 

Congrats on the wheel upgrade BTW, but it'll only get worse.

Edited December 14, 2007 by jj big shoe

[csutke]

or just take the center caps off, as for the proper maintance of the tires where did you hear that, I always rotated mine every oil change (roughly 3000 miles or 3 months) but thats just me

[NaturaTek]

I went with a xacto knife, but don't think I can do it. I drove in a parking lot and started turning until the scrape noise. Stopped and went to look. Its rubbing on the back of the fender flare, over the screw. Looks like I need to trim the steel fender itself. Or is there a temporary economical lift for the front I can do? It looks like if it was raised just a tad in the front, it would not touch the rear of the inside fender flare right where it screws on the fender.

 

I was thinking having someone look and tighten the torsion bars to get that little lift. However I'm not sure its a good idea? Since this is all stock and I'm not sure how bad the parts are.

What is the proper good way of adjusting torsion bars for a 90 pathy? I searched a little and diff people have diff takes on it. There was a tiny picture tutorial I found via google. It said something about 'reindexing' them. Does someone have a tip/trick or a favorite way to do the torsion bar thing? Are there any dangers to look out for?

 

I need to take some photo, too damn cold outside.

[Earth1]

There's only 1 way to do a tbar lift. It's very easy; if you have a jack and stands, and a 19mm (I think) wrench and socket you can do it. You won't have to raise much if you are only barely hitting the plastic.

 

-Make sure it's in gear and the brake is on.

-Take a measurement from the ground, both sides. I like to use the pinch weld right by the flares.

-Get the front tires off the ground. If you don't have jack stands it can be done on the ground, but it's easier w/out weight on the front. Tightening the tbars with the front on the ground may stress the anchors on the front, but I can't confirm that.

-The adjusters are in the middle frame crossmember, look for two long bolts with 2 nuts on each. Loosen the top nuts so the lower nut can move up. The top one is a keeper nut, if you can get a wrench on both at the same time that will work too. Tighten the bolts; this twists the bar (moves the anchor up into the xmember) and puts more pressure on them, raising the front. 10 full turns should get a decent amount of lift but play around with it, maybe you'll need more or less. If you offroad make sure the anchors don't sit below the xmember, they can catch on rocks if they're down too far. Not good.

-Get it back on the ground and bounce the crap out of it to settle the suspension.

-Measure again, it should be higher in the front now but you don't want the front higher than the back. Pathys came stock with the back a little higher. Both sides should be the same, a little higher on the driver side is ok.

-Pull up on an obstacle with one wheel (flex one side) and turn the wheel completely both ways to see if anything rubs.

 

That should do it.