disfordog Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 Hi, Although I'm relatively new here (never posted, but did all my mods with the help of you guys!), I thought I could throw in some info on recovery hooks and see what comes back... Introduction To Snatch Recoveries Minimum Standards For Tow Hook Mounting Specification For Recovery Hooks I am still running two factory hooks on the front, in the stock position, bolted into the stock captive nuts in the chassis. I'd like to fit two 10,000Lb rated hooks to my front end somewhere but it looks like I may have to get some steel welded on to be able to attach them properly. I assume any bar work will primarily use the same 4 captive nuts, and maybe include the flimsy bumper mounts... not withstanding any custom fab work obviously... I'd be keen to see pics of y'all bullet proof recovery points! Or if anyone knows where to get rated hooks with the Pathy bolt spacing? Has anyone bent or busted a factory hook? Stripped the bolts from the captive nuts? Anyone know where to find the load rating? If any? You guys rock! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 (edited) I also have been running 2 factory hooks up front, along with a receiver hitch out back. I've pulled several rigs front and back, no worries. I can't comment on the limits, but I'd say they're pretty stout, as much as a Pathfinder should be attempting at least. There's no substitute for common sense. Edited February 20, 2007 by Mr. Pickles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pavelow Leaks Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 I use a reciever front and back, I have a hitch with a d-ring from a helicopter mooring point. Switch it to whichever location is necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 the hook is only as strong as the hardware used to mount it up...so make sure they're some good grade steel (not no lowes or home depot (hardware store) crap) make sure they're good strong bolts and see if you can find the shear strength of them and makes ure it makes sense to use with what your pulling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disfordog Posted February 21, 2007 Author Share Posted February 21, 2007 :idea: Maybe some L shaped 10mm steel so that the new rated hook would keep the same orientation as the factory hook. Drill one side of the L-plate to the chassis bolt pattern and the other side of the L-plate to the rated hook bolt pattern. I guess its possible to drill the chassis and weld another captive nut in there so that the L-plate will have 3 bolts to the chassis.... -study- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disfordog Posted February 22, 2007 Author Share Posted February 22, 2007 I've never had a prob with my hooks as they are, but i guess the over engineering in the above PDF's has got me a little nervious, esp since I used to run the 10,000 pounders on my 'yota... but the front Pathy hooks have shrugged off a good whiping extracting my old Toy'!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted February 25, 2007 Share Posted February 25, 2007 meh, factory hooks up front, class 3 hitch with pintel hook out back for recovery. i have 4 10k tow hooks sitting in a bag..... may put those on king.... but mini's equipment works just fine. and yes, there are a couple guys here who pretzled tow hooks while on recovery.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
govols74n Posted February 25, 2007 Share Posted February 25, 2007 F it, I just hace D- rings everywhere....they work great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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