CV BOOTS FOR TERRANO

[buzz]

Am replacing inner and outer CV boots on my 1991 Diesel Terrano. Have purchased type to match 1989 4cylinder Pathfinder. Friend suggests that these could be wrong and should have been to suit V6 Pathfinder. Is there a difference?? Can someone please advise

Buzz

[88pathoffroad]

The diesel and the V6 drivetrain should be the same, if I'm not mistaken. I couldn't really say, we never got the diesel models over here. Sorry.

[Diesel Boy]

Got your PM.

I would be interested to know aswel which fit. Logic says they should be universal between the models, but like any thing Japanese they vary alot between models. I would cover all the options, or at least if you go to some where like Repco they have a good computer cataloge system and they can give you the dimensions of the boot. In fact the easyest way is to ring the shop which supplied you with the boots, say you want boots for the diesel, when they find the part number for the ones you want, check that against the part number for the boots you have. If the part number is different, and its the same brand of boots then you know you have the wrong ones. Simple as a phone call.

If they don't have the same brand of boots, get them to compare part numbers between the 4cyl, V6 and diesel with in the same brand. If the numbers the same between them or what ever you have your answer.

Pete.

[buzz]

Replaced front CV boots on weekend on my 1991 Diesel Terrano

 

Outer boot is common between 1991 V6 Pathfinder, 1989 4cylinder Pathfinder 4WD, 1991 Navara Diesel 4WD and 1991 Diesel Terrano r3m ( and probably others)

 

V6 Pathfinder has it's own unique Inner boot

 

4cyl Pathfinder, Navara and Terrano listed above all share the same Inner boot.

 

Australian Company called Kelray Aust. sell for $9.80 each (Aus). Trade name is Kelpro CV Boots

 

Part Nos COB001 - Outer CV Boot

 

Part No CIB503 - Inner CV Boot V6 Pathfinder

 

Part No CIB513 - Inner CV Boot Terrano, Navara, 4cyl Pathfinder listed above

 

Hope this helps Aust/NZ Terrano/Pathfinder owners.

 

Buzz

 

 

is different part no but also common between models listed above

[buzz]

Ignore last line" is different part no etc etc""

Just a typo! Getting late - better go to bed!!!

Buzz

[Diesel Boy]

I ripped one of mine at the weekend, so going to replace the lot.

Any chance of a description of how you did it??

Just if you get the time mind!!

Pete.

[sw]

jack & support car, remove front wheel

 

1.loosen torsion bar completely

2.disconnect & remove locking hub

3.disconect steering arm

4.remove brake caliper

5.disconnect & remove wheel hub

6.disconnect & remove axle

 

note: you may have to unbolt the bottom of the shock to get the axle out

 

working on axles:

1.put the axel in a vice, working on inner joint

2.tap the joint toward the outer joint. the end seal will pop off (dont go too hard you dont want to damage the seal)

3.remove clip on tripod joint

4.remove tripod

5.disasemble shalf and clean well (the outer joint does tap off (but this step can be very hard to do and also not necasery))

6.regrease well and fit new boots

7. reasemble (reverse of process)

 

hint: buy a cv boot banding tool (cheap ($40) and worth its weight in gold) - style that winds in with a rachet motion

 

just be careful and mark where the boots lie on the axle and how long the axle is. (the inner joint has 'floating' length). if you get it wrong you WILL be doing it again

 

[buzz]

Once you have disassembled inner joint, don't forget to slip on outer boot before you fit inner boot. You will probably need to cut outer boot off rather than sliding old outer boot along axle and then slide new boot on. Otherwise Steve 's steps are "spot on"

 

Only reason I am advising you is because I forgot - there was alot of swearing!!

 

Also keep a jack handy as you may need independent support when undoing shocker.

 

 

Buzz

[Diesel Boy]

Thanks guys.

One question though:

Talking about the inner joint, does the half shaft slide straight out of the joint??

This is what im thinking.

If i detatch the hub assembly from both upper and lower A arms, release the tie rod end ball joint, i would be able to with draw the shaft from the inner CV joint complete with the hub assembly. Then i just slide the outer boot off up the shaft, and so on.

It all hinges on weather you can pull the shaft out of the inner CV, which you must be able to do in order to get the boot on and off.

It may make repacking the the joints more difficult, but it leaves the wheel bearings alone and torsion bar alone.

Does it sound like that may work??

[sw]

NO

 

the inner cv 'cup' is recessed at the end

 

you have to tap the end seal off, thats why i mentioned it

[Diesel Boy]

ROGER>

[buzz]

Pete,

SW and I have both replaced boots on same weekend on different vehicles but basically the same method. We had further discussions about disassembly and understanding of your last reply. So I'll try to clarify a bit better.

 

The inner CV is fitted into a housing with an internal circlip that stops you pulling shaft out of your front diff. You have to unbolt housing (via 6bolts) to separate shaft from diff.

At the outer end both SW and I removed the hub assembly from the upper and lower support arms etc This makes the shaft easier to work on but we can't see any reason why you can't take the shaft and hub assembly out as one piece. Hope you have a beefy mate to help you lift it!

There is not too much you can do wrong and you'll learn so the second one will be easier.

 

PS removing the hub doesn't affect the bearings. On the Terrano you remove auto lock hub unit via allen keys, remove circlip and ENSURE you make a note how the washers are fitted for later. Then the hub assembly just slides off the shaft!!!

 

When you go to refit hub/washers, the circlip groove sometimes is hard to locate. Hold the end of shaft with vicegrips and pull towards yourself as there is play in the newly greased joints/boots.

 

We both don't understand why you need to take out in one piece as there is no advantage. The outer joint could be harder to clean if still attached to hub.

 

Good luck

Buzz and Steve (ps we work in the same office!)

[Diesel Boy]

Hey guys, now this is what im talking about!!!!!

Thats some real usefull stuff. So the wheel bearings remain unaffected. Good. I have manual hubs. Good. Inner CV has to be unbolted. Good. Then remove hub and shaft slides out.

Thats the basics that i needed to know. Thanks heaps, i was going to ask for a scan of an exploded diagram just to get my head around it, but comparing it to what i have seen when i did the boots on my old Hilux Surf(coughs) it should be ok.

So the only bit that seems odd to me is this end seal, but i will deal with that when i get to it.

Thanks guys.

Very greatfull.

Pete.

 

P.S I hate doing wheel bearings!!!!!!

[buzz]

Pete,

Don't be too concerned, as you will understand our explanations a lot better as you start doing the work.

The inner CV housing ( once removed) looks like someone has pressed a jam lid into the mating surface, Steve was explaining that you knock housing towards outer end of shaft. What you are trying to do is allow the shaft and CV joint inside the housing to knock the jam lid off the end..... is that simple enough???

Once the lid is off, the CV / circlip etc (and grease) is exposed so that you can start disassembling as per earlier instructions. Watch out after you have replaced all boots, clamps etc and you are handling shaft back into car that you don't accidently push the shaft back against the "jam lid" and it falls out!

 

It's all quite simple with a bit off patience and a mate to help.

 

Let me know when you are doing job and I'll keep an eye out on Forum if you get stuck.

Did the boot part nos mean anything in NZ??

 

Also received LEDs for Terrano dash today so I will let you know if any good.

 

Buzz

[Diesel Boy]

Cheers, thanks for that.

I think part numberrs are specific to brands. So no, i got Fargo kevlar boots, and they had there own specific numbers.

Thanks again, i don't feel like im going in cold any more!!!