Jdpathy Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 Nissan quoted me for fixing my car and they had the compression rods and strut rods on separately, so I don't know what is going on there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 Nissan quoted me for fixing my car and they had the compression rods and strut rods on separately, so I don't know what is going on there. Yeah im not 100 percent sure either, I just looked on the part book I have and it calls it a tension rod. Strut rod just rings a bell though. I looked on Autozones website and they list a strut rod bushing but no compression rod or tension rod bushing, the strut rod bushing was about 15 bucks, but this is from my local store so I would print the picture that best shows the rod and drive on down to the to your local Autozone and ask them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 (edited) Ok guys just got back from autozone and purchased this set of Duralast bushings. It has the same thickness on one of the bushings but the other one is about 1/8 of an inch thicker which I think is going to work. It cost $15 a pair including the sleeve. They call it strut rod bushing at autozone Bushings are about 1-3/8 thick by 2 inch in circ. Metal sleeve is 2-3/4 in lenght by 7/16 in circ JD would you mind measuring the inner sleeve that you have posted a pic of. Edited October 24, 2006 by SuperSon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdpathy Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 (edited) Cool, learning something daily. I wondered what the strut rods were. I guess thats what I get for buying from the dealer As soon as I get home, I will run and measure it for you. It looks to me like your bushings are better than mine, cause mine have a really deep valley in them while yours are shallow, so they won't wear out quite as fast. Edit: refer to post at bottome of page 1 Edited November 8, 2006 by Jdpathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 No rush Jd . Ill bee working on the pathy tomorrow and hopefully this bushings that I bought fits. The reason why I hate going to the dealer is they charge too much on labor plus they overcharge you on parts.Can you imagine the mark up they have on those bushings.It might not be much to them but it sure is for us. Nothing against the mechanics that works there. Ill try to install this set tomorrow and do some re torguing on the bolts and hope that cures the popping noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 Sooner or later I'll get this pic posting thing sorted. But anyway here is the business end of the compression rods. My 'finder had about 165K on it when this one snapped by simply rolling out of my driveway. It will be tough to determine the condition of your rods without removal to examine the area under the bushings. The design inheriently traps water grit and whatever else and slowly decays. Good luck on your trouble shooting. Looks like the sleeve and the rod ends got chewed up pretty bad on that M. Ill find out tomorrow if mine are like that. Im assuming that you can get those rod at the junkyard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdpathy Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 I measured the sleeve and it was approx 2 13/32 It is not 2 3/4, but it was my old sleeve so I don't know how accurate it is. I can't get to my new sleeves cause I already installed them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 I measured the sleeve and it was approx 2 13/32 It is not 2 3/4, but it was my old sleeve so I don't know how accurate it is. I can't get to my new sleeves cause I already installed them. Close enough..Thanks Jd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 (edited) How many miles ya got on your pathy? I highly doubt the mounts will be bad. Heres what I would do.... 1) Jack the truck up on a hard flat surface, support with jackstands. 2) Remove front tire. 3) Untorque the torsion bars (you will know when they are untorqued because the adjusters will just fall and be able to move up and down, when they have torque on them they are pinned up) Also, you must mark the torsion bar so you know where to tighten it back to, dont mark on the rubber boot because it will probably move some time through out the entire process. 4) Remove tire rod end from spindle. 5) Remove the Auto/Manual hub (youre going to have to read the book and follow it to a T. Basicaly that allows you to be able to leave the CV axle in place while you take the spindle etc. off) 6) Remove caliper from spindle, secure it to the frame so the brake line doesnt get pulled. 7) Disconnect the lower ball joint. 8) Disconnect the upper ball joint, BE PREPARED BECAUSE NOTHING IS HOLDING THE SPINDLE AND BRAKE ROTOR ANYMORE. 9) Set aside the brake rotor and spindle (it should all be one peice) 10) Unbolt the nut on the compression rod. 11) Unbolt the compression rod from the lower control arm. 12) Replace bushings. 13) Put the compression back into the mount and put the nut back on. 14) Tighten the nut untill the bolt holes on the compression rod and lower control arm line up. 15) Install the bolts that bolt the lower control arm and compression rod together. Putting it back together is the same as taking it apart, just backwards. Im pretty sure thats how it goes, when I did I had to take my entire front end off the truck, including the axle. Im can do it without taking anything apart except for the compression rod but for a novice its good expirence and will probably be alot easier. Any older members feel free to chime in with opinions or to correct me. Oh yeah, its going to take some special tools for the hubs. What I do is just support the crap out of the entire spindle assembly and unbolt the compression rod from the lower control arm, then unbolt it from the frame mount, put the new bushings on then put it back through the frame mount and use the nut to pull the compression rod through to compress the bushings to allow the lower control arm to line up with the rod and bolt them together. Now, if you have never done this before I highly recommend doing it by the list above, the way I do it could really hurt you, if you have your arm or head in there and the spindle assembly moves, well you get the idea. So untill youre ok with doing it I would do it the 'right' way, not only that but the way I do it is a royal PITA. Edited October 25, 2006 by FLApathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdpathy Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 (edited) Are you talking about the compression rods. Cause when I replaced the bushings and sleeves on those all I needed to do was unbolt them with the tire removed and slide them out and when I installed them I put them back in and snugged the bolts then set the car down and tightened them>? Edited October 25, 2006 by Jdpathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 Are you referring to changing the axle too Fla???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 Jd , When I take that tension rod out do I have to watch for anything that might drop on me? The way that Im going to do it is loosen the bolt on the bushing end first then the 2 bolts holding the rod, Loosen the lug nut on the tire Then Ill jack the car up and take the tire out to have more room to completely remove all the nuts and bolts. Is there tension on that rod with the car jacked up? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 (edited) Are you talking about the compression rods. Cause when I replaced the bushings and sleeves on those all I needed to do was unbolt them with the tire removed and slide them out and when I installed them I put them back in and snugged the bolts then set the car down and tightened them>? Yeah thats what I do, thats also what I explained. The reason I gave all that garble about taking everything apart is because I dont know Superson's mechanical ability. By doing what you said, it may require some muscle that some people arent comfortable with doing, the new bushings are tight and it may seem like he did something wrong when he puts it back together, like when he goes to bolt the rod to the lower control arm, the bolts may not line up. Superson, if you go that route then you should support the hub/rotor assembly from underneath, the way the lower control arm is attached to the frame (on the front mount) wont allow it to move front to back, but will allow it to move up and down. Id still make sure the torsion bar has no tension on it just in case, depending on how much they are torqued already just jacking the truck up may untorque them, of course the tension on the torsion bars may help hold the hub assembly up will you work and make it easy to put it back together. Although, I doubt the you will have to mess with the torsion bars. The way that Im going to do it is loosen the bolt on the bushing end first then the 2 bolts holding the rod, Loosen the lug nut on the tire Then Ill jack the car up and take the tire out to have more room to completely remove all the nuts and bolts. Youre on the right track, jack the truck up first and support it with jackstands, take the tire off, make sure the torison bar is nuetral, then go about what you said. Edited October 26, 2006 by FLApathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 Well guys finally got the tension rod out and I was kinda glad that no damage to the rod and bushing but at the same time kinda disappointed coz I thought for sure that thats whats causing the pop. I wasnt able to torque the 4 bolts that Fla has pointed out but I will give it a shot tomorrow and hopefully that will cure the popping noise. Im headin to the air force base hobby shop saturday and I will try to install a new axle also.This might have something to do with thast popping sound.Unfortunately the UCA's that I ordered isnt here yet, it would be kinda nice to replace the UCA the same time I replace the axle. Took some pics of the rod,bushing and sleeves and it doesnt even shoe any sign of wear on the sleeve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdpathy Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 That is too bad that wasn't the problem, sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, but I think fla answered the question for you. See you later and good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 That is too bad that wasn't the problem, sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, but I think fla answered the question for you. See you later and good luck No problem Jd. Ill find where that popping noise is coming from one of these days:D Im still open for any suggestions guys :type: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdpathy Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 YO Superson did you ever figure out what the problem was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 YO Superson did you ever figure out what the problem was. Not yet JD. Thightened every bolt that I could reach in there without lifting the truck and it seems to have quiet it down a bit but that annoying pop is still there. I can feel it underneath the drivers seat and floorboard by my right foot just underneath the brake pedals and sometime it almost feels like its coming from the front door in between the front drivers door and fender I checked my door by lifting it up on the end while open and theres a little bit of play in there. Ive seen a post in here by 88path if im not mistaken about replacing hinge pins on those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdpathy Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 Well keep us posted and good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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